Skating under the Setas

skating rink 2013

[click on image to enlarge]

Starting today (until January 6th) you can rent skates and take a few turns around the curiously named “pista hielo ecológica”. I’m not sure what’s so “ecological” about a massive stretch (264 square metres) of petroleum-based fake ice, but there you go. The kids looked like they were having a great time. Also in the curiously named Plaza Mayor you’ll find some market stalls selling crafts, a churros stand and a kiddie train ride.

Open 11 am – 11 pm
Price: 6 € for approx 30-40 minutes
3 € for the train ride

Celebrating San Lorenzo Day

san lorenzo

[click on image to enlarge]

Well, nobody can say my life lacks diversity. The other day I got a newsletter from the Antigua Abacería San Lorenzo saying they would once again be celebrating San Lorenzo day, which made sense given that the bar is named after this saint (as is the barrio). But as I read the newsletter further I was surprised that this celebration would take the form of turning the bar into an “epicentre of roasted and grilled meats”. In case you don’t know, here is a bit of info about San Lorenzo…

Born in Huesca, Spain, San Lorenzo was a Roman deacon who was martyred four days after Pope Saint Sixtus II was put to death. After the pope was killed Lorenzo was instructed by the Prefect to gather all the riches of the church and render them unto Caesar. He had three days to accomplish this and, as the legend goes, he sought out the poor, widows and orphans of Rome and gave them all the money he had, even selling sacred vessels to increase the amount. After three days he gathered a large group of blind, lame, leprous, orphaned and widowed people and presented them to the Prefect saying “these are the treasures of the Church”. For this he was put to a slow and painful death on top of a large gridiron with live coals beneath it and, the legend concludes that, after enduring the pain for a very long time he made his famous cheerful remark, “I’m well done. Turn me over!”

Not surprising I guess, San Lorenzo is the patron saint of cooks and chefs.

And so off I went to take part in this unusual and – um, ironic? – festivity. We were greeted by owners Ramón and Mari Carmen and offered a glass of ponche alosnero (a white wine and peach punch from the village of Alosno in Huelva). Shortly afterwards platters of grilled goodies were passed around to everyone in the bar: sardines, chicken drumsticks, potatoes with mojo picón sauce, strips of “lagarto” Ibérico. Then we were treated to a bit of humourous free-verse from poet and neighbour José Luís Agudo Hill, designated “pregón” for the event, which finished with a flourish as José Luís brandished a small decorated BBQ grill to the delight and applause of the onlookers.  There was still more to come as we were only half-way through the celebrations, but I had Saturday errands to attend to and so I took my leave.

If you don’t know what an abacería is then have a look here. And for more information about upcoming events at the Antigua Abacería check out their website.

Antigua Abacería San Lorenzo
Teodosio 53
Tel. 954 380 067

A Sad Ending for Mr Pulpo

mr pulpo
In October 2008 I did a fabulous long-weekend road trip with my friend Susan, from Sevilla along the Costa de la Luz to Bolonia and, after a quick side trip to buy knickers at M&S in Gibraltar, we went on to Málaga because my friend Agustín told me I HAD to eat at Andrés Maricuchi. This was my first, and very brief, visit to Málaga and after lunch and visiting the Picasso museum we stopped for tea and cake near the Roman amphitheatre, which was still being excavated at the time. And for some reason there was a massive octopus draped over a small viewing area.

mr pulpo rediscoveredApparently the giant octopus is a legend told by Pliny the Elder about an incident that took place when Málaga was a part of the Roman Empire and was an important producer and exporter of garum, or fish paste. During the night this giant octopus would drag itself across the beach and eat the stored fish paste. They tried to catch it with dogs, which it slapped aside like so many mosquitos, and so they also put up barriers around it, but it escaped by jumping into a tree and then over the barriers. It was finally killed by many harpoons … well, that is the story in a nutshell.

So imagine my surprise when I was walking over to the Contemporary Arts Museum during my recent holiday in Málaga and, looking up, spotted a decidedlly worse-for-wear Mr Pulpo sprawled across the balcony of what looked like an abandoned building near the port. I thought this was a very sad way for this impressive specimen to have ended up. But it was even sadder when my friend Victor (@welovemalaga) sent me the photo below this morning on Twitter. Not only had Mr Pulpo been unceremoniously pushed over the balcony but they’d cut all his legs off! Why?? 🙁

death of mr pulpo

Corpus Christi | San Fernando 2013

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A few images from this morning’s Corpus Christi procession. Shortly after I moved to Sevilla (1993) a friend told me that a nice way to enjoy Corpus was to get up extra early and walk the procession route before everything got started. And there is something quite lovely about being out in the cool summer air walking on the rosemary-strewn streets and checking out the altars and decorated balconies and shop windows along the way. Things have changed a bit over the years, most notably that more and more people seem to be doing this so you have to get up even extra early to have the route (mostly) to yourself. And this year I noticed that there were far fewer decorated balconies and shop windows. A result of the Crisis? As I was in Granada for Corpus last year I can only compare it to a couple of years ago.

This year’s celebrations are also exceptional as it is also San Fernando Day. A two-fer! There were also extra events put on by the city council. I have always liked Corpus in Sevilla, especially the rosemary and the “balcones de seda”.

Alternatours Sevilla

sevilla alternatours

Introducing my new Alternatours Sevilla page.

One of the things my Sevilla Tapas Tour clients always ask me is what other tours or activities might be of interest to them while they are visiting Sevilla. Bear in mind that these are people who have already chosen a customised food and wine tour and are looking for the same sort of quality and personal attention. Over the years I’ve found a few that I can personally recommend with confidence, but I’m always on the look out for more. So I have started a new blog page where I can list these personal recommendations.

Tours, activities, gastronomy, shopping and entertainment. Places of interest.

If you’d like to be listed here get in touch and let me know about what you do.
Note: all tours and activities must be available in English.

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Alternatours Sevilla