It’s a tough call, but Triana, at the far end of the Puente Isabel, is probably my favourite of the four central municipal markets. It was substantially renovated a few years ago to improve facilities for both stallholders and customers, while still retaining its traditional appearance with the tiled nameplates of the vendors. In addition to the usual displays of fresh fish and fruit and veg it also boasts an oyster and sushi bar and a microbrewery to refresh yourself after a hard morning’s shopping. Beneath the market are the ruins of Saint George’s Castle, once the headquarters of the Inquisition and now the museum of tolerance.