Málaga | Hotel del Pintor

hotel del pintor room
After three fabulous nights in Málaga mid-December I realised I needed/wanted to extend my visit by one more night. Unfortunately the lovely hotel I’d been staying at had no availability and they asked me if I would like them to call somewhere for me. Well, back in July while I was on summer holiday in Málaga a friend of mine came to visit and spent the night at Hotel del Pintor. I’d seen her room and, while not as nice as where I’d been staying, I thought it would be fine for one night. But imagine my surprise when I showed up at the hotel and saw that my room was nothing like the one I’d seen before. In fact, it was barely a room at all. There was one single bed in a room just slightly larger than the bed itself, with two small windows looking into two other small windows across the patio. Small, dark and uncomfortable. There wasn’t even a place for me to put my carry-on suitcase and I ended up leaning it against the door. The (surprise!) very small bathroom was clean enough, though the toilet seat was soaking wet when I arrived, and the toilet made odd gurgling sounds throughout my stay.hotel del pintor

I spoke to the receptionist who told me she couldn’t change rooms because they were fully booked and when I asked to speak to the manager I was told he was away in Sevilla for a meeting and couldn’t be reached. What? This was at midday on a Friday. I was pretty much resigned to spend my final night in Málaga in that dreadful room but certainly didn’t want to spend 54€ (the same price my previous – and much superior – hotel had charged per night) and so asked for something to be done. When I returned to the hotel in the evening to change for dinner (I’d stayed out as long as possible so I wouldn’t have to spend time there) I was told that the manager was still unavailable. I told the receptionist – a different one this time – that it was scandalous to charge so much for what was little more than a walk-in closet and was told that this was because of the hotel’s “excellent location”. Yes, on grimy calle Álamos, with no parking, no restaurant… all of which was available at my previous hotel (which is actually in an excellent location). Whatever. I left to meet my friends feeling very upset.

That night I had a terrible sleep on the small bed that creaked whenever I turned over (receptionist: “oh, that must be because the bed is new!”) on a too-soft pillow that was full of lumps. The next morning I got dressed and got out of there as soon as possible, and while checking out yet another receptionist told me that the manager – who was now unavailable because he was off for two days – had instructed her to tell me that they would not adjust the price for me. Unbelievable. What kind of hotel has no manager available from mid-day Friday until Monday morning?? Totally unprofessional. When my friend stayed there during peak season in July she paid 48€ for a room that was easily twice as big, yet management maintained they could do nothing for me. Trust me, there are plenty of other places to stay in Málaga where you will be treated much better than here.

Hotel del Pintor
Álamos 27
Málaga
tel 952 06 09 80

Málaga | Hotel Room Mate Lola

lola
Those of you who know me know that I usually opt for holiday apartments if I’m staying somewhere more than a night or two. I just like the extra space and having a small kitchen for making coffee and snacks. But on this recent trip to Málaga I came across a nice 3-night online offer at Room Mate Lola, where my friend Annie Bennett had stayed not long ago and, based on her positive experiences there, I thought I’d give it a try. I was also interested to stay in the new hip Soho barrio, so it suited me quite well. I liked that I could walk to the hotel from the train station in less than 15 minutes (no problem with small carry-on bag with wheels and laptop). I wondered if the “standard” room might feel a bit cramped, but although it wasn’t overly spacious and only had one window looking over a side street, it actually felt quite cosy and pleasant. Nice use of mirrors helped make the room feel larger and added more light. There was also lots of closet space (with a mini bar and safe inside), a good-sized desk and comfy armchair in the corner.

lola collage

[click on image to enlarge]

Lola’s retro-chic style totally fits in with its location in the newly designated “Soho” neighbourhood of Málaga. What used to be a rather dodgy area of town is being transformed into a trendy barrio filled with galleries and boutiques, and almost daily more and more buildings are being covered in street art and graffiti, some by quite famous artists. And the Contemporary Arts Museum is just a short walk away. In fact, I found it a comfortable walking distance to pretty much everywhere I wanted to go: the Atarazanas market, the recently refurbished port Muelle Uno, Larios street and the surrounding shopping areas, and even Plaza Merced.

I opted out of the breakfast (an attractive buffet served until noon) but was still able to enjoy a cup of coffee in the bright dining area on the main floor. There was excellent free WiFi throughout the hotel and the staff were very friendly, professional and helpful. The only “negative” I can think of is that the lighting in the bathroom was a bit too dim for doing hair and make-up, but it was nice having both a bathtub and shower. I honestly felt completely at home and comfortable at Lola and look forward to future stays there, and to trying out some of their other hotels in Spain.

Hotel Room Mate Lola
Calle Casas de Campos 17
Málaga
Tel 952 579 300

Casa de Huéspedes Santa María

casa huespedes bed
This quirky and charming family-run guest house was recommended to me by a friend who lives in El Puerto de Santa María and I have to say it was perfect for my overnight stay there mid-November. My room was on the ground floor at the back of the house, so not much light from the row of small windows just under the ceiling (presumably opening onto a patio), but it was brightly decorated in primary colours against white walls and bedding, which made it quite cheerful. The bed was super comfortable and everything was clean-clean-clean. I had an ensuite bathroom (some of the rooms share) which was small but serviceable. In fact, my only two complaints about the place had to do with the bathroom: no hand-held showerhead option, and the opaque window in the bathroom that opened onto the hallway (which wasn’t actually opaque enough and – bizarrely – had a curtain covering it on the hallway side of the window). I don’t know, just made me feel a bit “exposed” late at night.

casa huespedes room

[my room]

Owners Carlos and Myriam were very welcoming and helpful. I arrived with about fifteen minutes to spare to make my appointment for a sherry tour at Bodegas Gutierrez-Colosía, which happily was not far away, and Carlos not only gave me easy directions but also a couple of recommendations for places to have tapas afterwards. Unfortunately this meant I didn’t have time to take a peek at some of the other rooms and by the time I got back after lunch they were all occupied.

casa huespedes common spaces

[common areas of the hotel – click to enlarge]

Nice touches included a small kitchen where you could make tea or coffee and snacks. The fridge was stocked with bottled water that you could take and leave payment (1€) in a tin on the countertop. There were two complimentary coffee capsules with cups in my room and additional ones were also 1€ each, which seemed reasonable to me. The common rooms on the ground floor were also charming. A TV/reading room with a stack of books and comfy retro chairs, and a typical patio Andaluz, not-so-typically decorated. There was free WiFi in the common areas. All in all a pleasant stay and, at 40€, also a very good price.

It’s also an excellent location. It was about a 15 minute walk from the train station and just a 5 minute walk to the catamaran, which I took to Cádiz city the next morning.

Casa de Huéspedes Santa María
Calle Pedro Muñoz Seca 38
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 85 36 31

Málaga Christmas Visit

malagueta beach sunrise
If you follow me on Twitter (@azaharSevilla and @SevillaTapas) then you know that I spent last week visiting marvellous Málaga. It was an impromptu trip that came about after a Sevilla Tapas Tour a couple of weeks ago. I was talking with one of my guests – Justine from New Zealand – about her Spain itinerary and it turned out that she hadn’t even considered Málaga! Well, by the time she left Sevilla a few days later she said that after hearing me wax lyrical about my “second home” she was going to fit it into her rather flexible schedule. At which point I started thinking about how nice it would be to see Málaga at Christmas time again and then Justine said she’d happy to have a new friend in town the same time she’d be there. And so, with one thing leading to another, and the good people at Spain Holiday and Global City Break jointly offering me the use of one of their apartments on Malagueta Beach, suddenly it was a done deal and I dashed off to buy my train tickets.

view of old city from the portI have to admit that at first I had doubts about the apartment (the photos really don’t do it justice), though I knew it would feel like coming home because on all previous trips to Málaga I’ve stayed at my friend Manolo’s fabulous apartment just two streets over. But once I got there all concerns flew out the window. The apartment was adorable. And super-clean. This last point is crucial to me and I don’t think my hosts could have imagined just how fussy I am or they may have thought twice before asking me to review their place. The only negative I could see was that, if there were four people staying (it’s a two-bedroom) then the bathroom might feel a bit small (depending on how fussy you are), because it also has the washing machine in there. But there are so many positives.

When Global City rep Steffen met me at the apartment he said that people have sometimes joked that the place feels like being in an IKEA showroom, but to me that was exactly what made the apartment feel and look so fresh and clean. Both bedrooms have two single beds (mine was VERY comfortable) and tons of cupboard space. Lots of hangers, extra pillows and blankets, an alarm clock, bedside tables and lamps, clothing racks for drying laundry. I think the thing that kept surprising me was how well-thought out everything was. walk through malaga parkThe open kitchen was superbly equipped with high-quality appliances (Bosch, Whirlpool). There’s an electric kettle and coffee maker (and a good supply of filters in the cupboard), an espresso maker, toaster and stick blender. And the two-burner ceramic stove-top, microwave oven and full-sized fridge are more than adequate for holiday cooking needs. Oh, just across the street there is a supermarket and a greengrocer next to it. Also a pharmacy. Double-glazed windows and balcony doors keep out the noise, though I know from previous visits that this area isn’t particularly noisy, even at peak season. There are two terraces, one off the larger bedroom, the other off the livingroom with comfy terrace furniture.  And there is light. This is the thing I probably loved the best (other than it was so clean – did I mention how CLEAN it was?). Nice partial views of the mountains and the sea and lots and lots of light. The Malgueta beach (see that photo above?) is a two-minute walk from the front door of the building. There are also lots of great tapas bars and restaurants in the neighbourhood, plus the newly revamped harbourfront, MuelleUno, is just another two minute walk in the other direction. And it’s about a ten-minute walk to the old centre. At first I had hoped to stay in the centre, where Justine had booked her place, but in the end it was great being back in my ‘hood next to the sea.

I’m still sorting through my Málaga photos, but you can see some of them on the photo blog. I’ll also be adding to and updating my Viva Las Tapas Málaga restaurant guide soon and will be doing a few blog posts on the city, things to do and see there. I already can’t wait to go back.

 

veoapartment

As you can imagine, I’m often asked to recommend places to stay in Sevilla. Awhile ago I came up with my top 30 hotel picks, but the truth is that when I’m staying somewhere for more than a couple of days I always prefer to rent a holiday apartment. I like having the extra space and a kitchen to make coffee and snacks in. I seldom cook full meals on holiday but it’s nice (and cheaper) to have the option of not eating every meal at a restaurant. Plus most apartments come with washing machines, which is great for longer stays. But mostly I just like being able to “come home” from being out and about and having a comfy livingroom to relax in, rather than having to sit on my hotel bed.

I’ve known the gang at Sevilla 5 for years and can vouch that their apartment selection, and especially their personal service, makes them one of the best in town. I also love their newer “sister site” veoapartment. I mean, just check it out. The apartments are gorgeous, and they are all in the best neighbourhoods (barrios). But what is really impressive is how they have gone to the trouble of not only photographing the apartments, but they’ve also made stylish videos that give you a real feel of the places (much better than those dizzy-making 360º photos). They’ve also made some terrific videos of Sevilla so if you are interested in, say, staying in the Arenal, then you can take a visual stroll through the barrio before deciding whether or not it’s for you. And if you have any questions then the team is on hand to answer them in about a gazillion languages. Which is perhaps the thing I like best about this group – that they are from everywhere and I think this gives them a better insight into what people from everywhere are looking for when they come to Sevilla.

veoapartment.com