A Sad Ending for Mr Pulpo

mr pulpo
In October 2008 I did a fabulous long-weekend road trip with my friend Susan, from Sevilla along the Costa de la Luz to Bolonia and, after a quick side trip to buy knickers at M&S in Gibraltar, we went on to Málaga because my friend Agustín told me I HAD to eat at Andrés Maricuchi. This was my first, and very brief, visit to Málaga and after lunch and visiting the Picasso museum we stopped for tea and cake near the Roman amphitheatre, which was still being excavated at the time. And for some reason there was a massive octopus draped over a small viewing area.

mr pulpo rediscoveredApparently the giant octopus is a legend told by Pliny the Elder about an incident that took place when Málaga was a part of the Roman Empire and was an important producer and exporter of garum, or fish paste. During the night this giant octopus would drag itself across the beach and eat the stored fish paste. They tried to catch it with dogs, which it slapped aside like so many mosquitos, and so they also put up barriers around it, but it escaped by jumping into a tree and then over the barriers. It was finally killed by many harpoons … well, that is the story in a nutshell.

So imagine my surprise when I was walking over to the Contemporary Arts Museum during my recent holiday in Málaga and, looking up, spotted a decidedlly worse-for-wear Mr Pulpo sprawled across the balcony of what looked like an abandoned building near the port. I thought this was a very sad way for this impressive specimen to have ended up. But it was even sadder when my friend Victor (@welovemalaga) sent me the photo below this morning on Twitter. Not only had Mr Pulpo been unceremoniously pushed over the balcony but they’d cut all his legs off! Why?? 🙁

death of mr pulpo

Hinestrosa Siete Holiday Apartments in Málaga

view from my private terrace
view from my private terrace

I am just back from two wonderful whirlwind weeks in Málaga, my second home here in Spain. As some of you know, usually when I visit Málaga I stay at my friend Manolo’s apartment on the Malagueta beach, but normally only for a weekend or a few days at a time. This time I was actually taking two whole weeks – my first real vacation in over 20 years! My original plan was to go on a northern Spain adventure but once again (just like last summer) Life Stuff got in the way, including this lovely wee thing that happened into my life. So in the end I decided to take a total RELAX holiday in Málaga. Manolo very generously gave me the use of his fab beachside apartment for the first week and for the second week I thought it would be fun to stay in the centre of town for a change. And as so often happens, Twitter came to the rescue.

Turns out that the the brother of the owner of one of my favourite tapas bars in Málaga – Taberna Uvedoble – has four fabulous apartments in a newly renovated building (designed by their architect father). Take a look on the Hinestrosa Siete website (my apartment was Duplex 1) and you can also see more pics on their AirBnB page. Normally I would have taken a lot more of my own photos but when I moved over from the Malagueta I had just enough time that morning to get Morcilla settled before dashing off to see some processions, and later I forgot to take any before unpacking, so instead you get these.

I just loved the apartment. It’s on a quiet pedestrian street and is all white minimalist, clean lines, with a bright well-equipped kitchen and – very important – a good wifi connection. And Fede was fine about Morcilla being with me. As the week went on we discovered we had even more mutual friends in town. It’s a small Twitter world out there.

Morcilla waking up after a siesta
La Morcilla de Burgos waking up after a siesta

In fact, I’ll be going back to Málaga at the end of August and staying another week in what I think of now as My Apartment. I guess just for one person (and a small kitten) one of the studio apartments would suffice as they are also very bright and cheerful. But I kind of like the extra space and Morcilla loves running up and down the stairs.

I don’t know about you but if I stay somewhere for more than a night or two my choice is always to go with a holiday apartment rather than a hotel. For the same money (and usually less) you get a lot more space and also a small kitchen. Turns out I did next to no cooking this last holiday but it’s great having the option to make brekky at home, have a fridge to keep drinks cold and basically not feel cramped. And it’s great having a washing machine too.

One of the many things that set Hinestrosa Siete apart from most holiday apartments is finding a little “welcome basket” of snacks in the kitchen (and cold juice and water in the fridge) along with travel size shampoo and shower gel in the bathroom. Also, everything is sparkling clean when you arrive, with perfectly folded towels and the bed made so professionally you actually feel like you’re in a hotel. Plus Fede is just a phone call or email away if you need anything. I almost hesitate to give such a glowing review here lest I never find My Apartment available again, but I honestly can’t recommend this place enough. Perfect for a weekend getaway or even a longer holiday (it’s just a ten-minute walk to the beach). And Fede will also give you lots of recommendations for things to do while you’re in town. Can’t wait to go back.

Hinestrosa Siete Holiday Apartments in Málaga

We Love Málaga Tours

victorAs some of you may know, I am in love with Málaga and consider it my second home after Sevilla, so I try to get down there as often as possible. And although I’ve been visiting on a regular basis since 2009 I know I still have a lot to learn about it.

I’ve been a Twitter pal of Victor @welovemalaga for a few months and had been hearing great things about his tours, so during a quick visit last weekend I decided to take one of his Malaga Walking Tours. We met on a rainy Saturday morning and, because of the weather, I had Victor all to myself.

A second-generation tour guide (his father and brother are also professional licenced guides) Victor is a natural story-teller. Charming, informed, and passionate about his native city, I was immediately drawn in and held captivated by his entertaining anecdotes and fascinating facts about Málaga. No dull routine “canned talk” on this tour! Places I had already visited many times took on new meaning and I also got to see a few “secret spots” that I didn’t know existed. The two hours flew by. Towards the end we were joined by Victor’s friend Tatiana and we were taken for the final surprise of the tour – a breathtaking rooftop view where we could look out over the port and also see the route we had taken.

victor and tatiana

By this time we were getting hungry and, because Victor also does tapas tours, we decided to do a mini-tapeo before I had to catch my train back to Sevilla. Just imagine! The Málaga King and Sevilla Queen of Tapas together at last. 😉 Not surprisingly, Victor took me to three places I hadn’t been to before and I remembered when I was in Málaga just before Christmas how he had also given me some great tips via Twitter on tapas bars I should visit. He certainly knows the tapas scene in Málaga and is open and generous in sharing his knowledge.

So the next time you’re in Málaga I whole-heartedly recommend that you take one of Victor’s tours. Even if, like me, you’ve visited the city before I guarantee you’ll see it with fresh eyes.

We Love Malaga

Málaga Christmas Visit

malagueta beach sunrise
If you follow me on Twitter (@azaharSevilla and @SevillaTapas) then you know that I spent last week visiting marvellous Málaga. It was an impromptu trip that came about after a Sevilla Tapas Tour a couple of weeks ago. I was talking with one of my guests – Justine from New Zealand – about her Spain itinerary and it turned out that she hadn’t even considered Málaga! Well, by the time she left Sevilla a few days later she said that after hearing me wax lyrical about my “second home” she was going to fit it into her rather flexible schedule. At which point I started thinking about how nice it would be to see Málaga at Christmas time again and then Justine said she’d happy to have a new friend in town the same time she’d be there. And so, with one thing leading to another, and the good people at Spain Holiday and Global City Break jointly offering me the use of one of their apartments on Malagueta Beach, suddenly it was a done deal and I dashed off to buy my train tickets.

view of old city from the portI have to admit that at first I had doubts about the apartment (the photos really don’t do it justice), though I knew it would feel like coming home because on all previous trips to Málaga I’ve stayed at my friend Manolo’s fabulous apartment just two streets over. But once I got there all concerns flew out the window. The apartment was adorable. And super-clean. This last point is crucial to me and I don’t think my hosts could have imagined just how fussy I am or they may have thought twice before asking me to review their place. The only negative I could see was that, if there were four people staying (it’s a two-bedroom) then the bathroom might feel a bit small (depending on how fussy you are), because it also has the washing machine in there. But there are so many positives.

When Global City rep Steffen met me at the apartment he said that people have sometimes joked that the place feels like being in an IKEA showroom, but to me that was exactly what made the apartment feel and look so fresh and clean. Both bedrooms have two single beds (mine was VERY comfortable) and tons of cupboard space. Lots of hangers, extra pillows and blankets, an alarm clock, bedside tables and lamps, clothing racks for drying laundry. I think the thing that kept surprising me was how well-thought out everything was. walk through malaga parkThe open kitchen was superbly equipped with high-quality appliances (Bosch, Whirlpool). There’s an electric kettle and coffee maker (and a good supply of filters in the cupboard), an espresso maker, toaster and stick blender. And the two-burner ceramic stove-top, microwave oven and full-sized fridge are more than adequate for holiday cooking needs. Oh, just across the street there is a supermarket and a greengrocer next to it. Also a pharmacy. Double-glazed windows and balcony doors keep out the noise, though I know from previous visits that this area isn’t particularly noisy, even at peak season. There are two terraces, one off the larger bedroom, the other off the livingroom with comfy terrace furniture.  And there is light. This is the thing I probably loved the best (other than it was so clean – did I mention how CLEAN it was?). Nice partial views of the mountains and the sea and lots and lots of light. The Malgueta beach (see that photo above?) is a two-minute walk from the front door of the building. There are also lots of great tapas bars and restaurants in the neighbourhood, plus the newly revamped harbourfront, MuelleUno, is just another two minute walk in the other direction. And it’s about a ten-minute walk to the old centre. At first I had hoped to stay in the centre, where Justine had booked her place, but in the end it was great being back in my ‘hood next to the sea.

I’m still sorting through my Málaga photos, but you can see some of them on the photo blog. I’ll also be adding to and updating my Viva Las Tapas Málaga restaurant guide soon and will be doing a few blog posts on the city, things to do and see there. I already can’t wait to go back.

 

Yunquera’s Gold

As part of my weekend break in Ronda, I had the opportunity to visit a small olive farm in Yunquera, a village in the mountains between Ronda and Málaga, run by Kenton Smith and Ann Larson. The 35km ride from Ronda to Yunquera turned out to be on some narrow winding mountain roads that were a bit hard on the nerves, but we made it in one piece and were met near Yunquera’s Napoleonic “watchtower” by Kenton and his land rover – a vehicle that proved essential on the last leg of the journey up to the farm.

Ann and Kenton left their London IT jobs nine years ago to come and live the “slow life” in southern Spain (though I think they work harder than most city-dwellers I know), tending their steeply-sloping olive orchards and working on various other projects – they really have achieved an impressive amount. The house, almost a ruin when they bought it, now has a terrace over a pleasant patio, a modern kitchen, workshops, a small swimming pool and even a custom-made totem pole which looks down over the village. As it’s “off the grid” they have to generate their own electricity (wind and solar power, though they have a generator for emergencies) and their water comes from a private well. You can read more about their life and adventures on their blog.

After taking a short walk into the grove to see the olive trees, accompanied by two large, boisterous and very friendly boxer dogs, we sat out on the patio and were treated to a sampling of Ann and Kenton’s own olive oil – Yunquera Gold – along with freshly baked foccacia for dipping and locally produced jamón, washed down with some excellent home brewed beer. We were also given some olive oil to take home. But there were still more treats in store!

While the others were discussing battery packs and the possibility of engineering students installing a hydraulic ram pump, Ann took me upstair so show me her Lujos range of olive oil based skincare products, which she developed herself and makes to order. They all looked – and smelled – wonderful, and so I was delighted when she gave me a gift package including Lovely Hands (luxury hand cream), Absolutely Fab (intensive face cream) and Orange & Black (body cream). Now that I’ve had a chance to try them out I can say that they are all terrific but the body cream is particularly fine and smells delicious, like a sweet soothing custard.

All too soon it was time to leave, but I’m looking forward to seeing Ann and Kenton in Sevilla before too long. In the meantime it’s fun staying in touch on twitter and by email – sometimes a short visit is enough to know when you’ve met kindred spirits.


Lujos skincare products