Churros are a fried dough snack that is made throughout Spain and much of Latin America. The dough is squeezed through a nozzle and deep fried in a special vat of hot oil. There are two basic types, a fat round spiral, usually known as “porra” but commonly known as “masas” in Seville, and a thinner, ridged version called “papas” (for years I thought these were made from potatoes, but no). In Seville they are normally eaten with a thick hot chocolate drink as a breakfast or mid-morning snack, and are also served in the early evening for “merienda”. They are also a popular as a “hangover cure” and some churrerías (also known as calenterías) open as early as 6am weekend mornings to catch all-night revellers on their way home.

Below is a short list of some great places to find churros in the centre of Sevilla. Do you know of any others that you’d like to recommend?

Churrería Alfalfa

Just off the Plaza Alfalfa in Calle Guardarmino, the Churreria Alfalfa has been run by Antonio and Inma Paz Tejada for the past thirty years.

Churros are available from 8.00am to 12.00 (except Mondays). Coffee and chocolate (a special family recipe) are only served at weekends, but during the week it’s quite acceptable to pick up your churros here and then take them to one of the nearby bars to order drinks.

 

Calenteria Postigo
Angela is the sixth generation of her family to make and sell churros at this little booth at the end of Calle Arfe next to the Postigo arch.

Opening times 7.00 to 12.30.
Take-away only, a half ración costs 1.50 euros. You can sit down with your churros and order chocolate from Bar Los Niños a couple of doors up the street.

 

Calentería San Pablo

On the corner of San Pablo and Bailen, this very popular and friendly little bar first opened its doors in 1960.

Opening times 7.30 to 12.30. Closed Sundays.

Churros are 1.20 euros, with chocolate 2.50 euros. Take-away only

 

Doña Carmen Cafeteria

This comfortable family-run cafe-bar is at San Eloy, 19, right in the centre of town, and is open for churros Mon to Sat 8.00 to 14.30 and 17.00 to 20.30.

Churros with coffee cost 2.30 euros, with chocolate 2.70 euros, which you can either order from the take-away window or have inside the bar with a drink.

 

Calentería Cano y Cueta

In Cano y Cueta street, at the end of the Murillo Gardens, this place is unusual in staying open until quite late in the evening, taking advantage of this little area’s profusion of hotels and places to eat.

Opening times 8.00 to 14.00 and 17.00 to 22.00, and there is a lovely terrace to sit out and enjoy your churros when the weather is good.

 

Bar Toro Toro
Bar Toro Toro, at the beginning of Mateos Gago facing the Cathedral, is the only place I know where you can get churros all day, every day, from 8am until midnight.

As you might expect, given its location, it’s less traditional and more touristy than most churrerías, but there’s nothing wrong with the churros.