Bar Santa Ana, Tapas Bar in Triana, Sevilla, Sepain

Updated March 2024

When I first visited Bar Santa Ana (maybe 2005?) I got one of those increasingly rare “hey, I’m living in Spain!” moments because of the very relaxed and “toda la vida” neighbourhood bar ambiance. Very noisy, very lively … I stopped myself from taking pics of a group of older gentlemen at the bar who started singing “Viva Las Pensionistas!” after a couple of beers because I didn’t want to come across as one of those guiris who write about “colourful local characters” in a patronsing manner. But honestly, those guys made my day. Instead I got our charming barman, David, to pose for a pic. And during another visit I got to meet owner José Cárdenas, who also posed for a photo.

Then came the news that José was retiring and selling the bar which, after a bit of a transition period, reopened in November 2023 with new owners María Sanz de Acedo (Barcelona) and Ben Dalton (London) at the helm. At first I wasn’t sure what to expect after so many recent takeovers here by corporate groups and franchises but it turns out that María and Ben are keen to respect the essence of the bar and they also maintain a close relationship with José, who is a frequent visitor (in fact, he showed up while I was there the other day).

Although the bar looks much the same, the kitchen and plumbing have been extensively redone. As before the bar area is small, with only three tables, but there is an ample terrace next to the gorgeous Santa Ana church. The menu offers a good range of dishes (medias and raciones) from traditional to inventive. We loved the layered bravas and crispy breaded artichokes with romesco sauce, and the squid ink croquetas were also excellent. A short but impressive wine list put together by Saul. Will definitely be back.

Bread Charge: 1.60€