Abacería Puerta Carmona

I’m surprised that I never really paid much attention to this little neighbourhood bar before now, but alerted by some recent social media praise I decided to pay it a visit. The bar has, in fact, changed hands just a few months ago, and according to affable barman and co-owner Chía, has reasserted some of its more traditional roots. I knew I’d love it as soon as I spotted the sherry menu and we promptly ordered some manzanilla en rama and mango vermouth.

Charcuterie, cheeses and montaditos are the mainstays, but there is also a reasonable tapas menu, from which we selected some albondigas (meatballs), followed by carrillada (braised pork cheeks), both excellent. We also sampled some Payoyo cheese in rosemary, which Chía assured us was the real deal (apparently there is a lot of dodgy “payoyo” out there).

The bar is quite small, though there are a few tables at the back, and a good-sized terrace outside, and it has the kind of friendly, relaxed atmosphere that makes you feel right at home. Open for breakfast, which is served until 12.30, the bar actually stays open all day, and a lovely dessert display appears on the bar for merienda. And being an abacería, you’ll also find some terrific artisanal preserves and tinned goods that you can take home with you.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Tintes 1
Tel 653 033 343
Open 8.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
9.00 – midnight Saturday – Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

manzanilla en rama and mango vermouth

Payoyo cheese with housemade red pepper jam

pork and jamón meatballs

braised pork cheeks (carrillada)

manager and co-owner Chía

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Le Streeter

Le Streeter is another new project from the inventive mind of Cayetano Gómez (Puratasca, Cruo Vermutería, La Cayejera) – along with his partners – and is in some ways a reworking of his food truck experience. And in some ways not. Le Streeter is indeed a food truck, but not in its normal habitat. It occupies a section of Gourmet Experience Duque, where it adds a dimension of international “street” cuisine to the proceedings. The truck itself is a rather natty little Citroen, and cooking is partly carried out there, and partly in a regular kitchen behind. There is a seating area for about twenty five people (also available for private functions), lots of greenery, and staff in camouflage jackets (urban jungle?), though they aren’t too difficult to find when you need one.

The menu is based on street food with a difference from around the world, by a chef who has previously worked in New York, among other places, so you can find things like caesar salad, pulled pork and NYC cheesecake, along with Asian, Italian, German and South American options. Coming soon – sushi and aged Galician beef. It’s not really tapas as the plates are quite generous, but the food’s good, and it’s also fun.

Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 8
5th floor – El Corte Inglés
10.00 – midnight Monday – Thursday
10.00 – 1.00 am Friday – Saturday
12.00 – midnight Sunday and holidays
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

caesar salad with panko-breaded chicken

giant hot dog on brioche bun with parmesan and spicy sauce

pulled pork on pan cristal with daikon and spicy sauce

New York style cheesecake

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Cruo Vermutería

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Cruo is the latest project of Cayetano Gómez, co-owner of the fabulous Puratasca (just around the corner from Cruo), and also of La Cayejera, Sevilla’s first ever food truck. It’s a tiny “vermutería”, created in homage to the typical vermouth bars of the early 20th century, a place to go for an aperitif before the main meal.

There are a number of different vermouths on offer, such as Miró (the vermú de la casa) Lustau, Yzaguirre and Ricard, as well as a selection of wines and sherries (great to find Gutiérrez Colosía amontillado) and Estrella Damm beer. The name derives from the fact that all the food is raw (“crudo” in Spanish, but pronounced “cruo” in Andaluz). We had some tasty gildas and an excellent sea bass & prawn ceviche that went very nicely with our vermouth. There is also a steak tartare on the short menu, along with oysters and a good selection of charcuterie.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Tejares 19
Triana
Tel 667 736 891
Open 12.00 – 23.00 Monday – Saturday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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cruo-7vermú on the rocks

cruo-cevichesea bass and king prawn ceviche

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Lama La Uva

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Happy to welcome a new wine shop and abacería in my neighbourhood. Lama la Uva is the creation of Ana Linares from Cádiz, whose aim is to introduce some of Andalucía’s lesser known quality wines and other delicacies (including hams and cheeses) to a wider public. It’s located in the Plaza Regina next to the Metropol Parasol, where it joins several other establishments that are making this one of the top go to places in town. The shop itself, where as well as wines you can buy ham, cheese and speciality foods, is a pleasant minimalist space on the ground floor, and there is a small room upstairs for tastings and other events.

The name is taken from Aesop’s fable “The Fox and the Grapes” (an adaptation of which was also published by Spanish writer Félix María Samañiego). But this time there is a twist,  with the fox (us!) getting the grapes this time, and they turn out to be the best ones (so no sour grapes).

Ana will be announcing her first tastings soon, which you can find on the Lama La Uva Facebook page.

Regina 1
Tel 601 494 138 / 606 975 899
Open 11.30-14.30 / 17.30-21.30 Monday – Friday
11.30 – 15.00 Saturday
€ € €

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lamalauva-anaowner Ana Linares

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lamalauva-6upstairs tasting room

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lamalauva-2opening night party

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Papirusa

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Sister to La Jarana (which I still haven’t been to because it’s half-way to the airport), Papirusa is newly opened in the barrio El Arenal, between the Cathedral and the bullring. More restaurant than tapas bar, and clearly geared for an upscale market, it still has the feel of a local bar. The long narrow space has a small “indoor-outdoor” patio area as you walk in, and there is also a small sidewalk terraza. Inside it’s cosy and comfortable, all soft blues and browns.

The menu is also small and comfortable, and there is an impressive wine list, though while there are several nice white wines by the glass there are only a couple of reds. By far my favourite “I have to come back for this” dish is the breaded artichokes filled with gambas al ajillo. And for the first time ever I have tasted cuttlefish “meatballs” that I actually like. But stay away from the patatas-not-very-bravas, topped with ketchup and some sort of egg-white “mayo”. Char-grilled meats are a specialty here, though I found both dishes we tried (presa Ibérica, lamb kidneys) a bit too charred, almost burnt. But overall, above-average cooking, great service and a very pleasant atmosphere. Fab desserts by Gollerías.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Antonia Díaz 9
Tel 954 22 53 85
Open 13.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

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papirusa-tuna-tatakytuna tataky with ginger and wakame

papirusa-croquetas-rabocola de toro de Lidia croquetas

papirusa-artichokesbreaded artichokes filled with gambas al ajillo, squid ink mayo

papirusa-albondigas-chocosalbóndigas de chocos

papirusa-chocoschocos fritos

papirusa-papas-bravaspapas not so bravas

papirusa-morcillagrilled morcilla de Burgos with panko migas

papirusa-lamb-kidneyschar-grilled lamb kidneys

papirusa-presachar-grilled presa Ibérida

papirusa-banoffeebanoffee pie

papirusa-13bathroom mirrors

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Tomamojama

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Tomamojama is Joaqín Pellón’s homage to all things tuna, in particular the bluefin tuna known as Almadraba, which is caught on the Cádiz coast using traditional methods. The main focus of this unique food and wine shop (abacería) is on salt-cured, semi-cured and smoked fish, but you can also find a wide variety of high quality preserved fish and seafood items in attractive tins and jars (also perfect for gift giving). And to accompany your purchases, Joaquín and Ángela are happy to recommend wines from his excellent selection, and also offers ready-made “pairings” at set prices.

Also recommended is to book one of Tomamojama’s fantastic private tasting sessions. There are menus for 35€ and 45€ per person (minimum 6 people) or you can arrange a custom tasting menu. It’s a perfect way to enjoy a variety of the shop’s products paired with selected wines. My friend Fiona Flores @Seville_Writer and I were recently invited to a custom pairing menu, which you can see below. We started off with a wonderful Bloody Sherry aperitif and a few snacks before the serious business of the tasting began, ranging from delicate semi-cured mojama to a dense (and somewhat challenging) dried tuna heart, the latter accompanied with a shot of freezer-cold vodka. I can’t think of a better – or more delicious – way to learn more about the wonderful world of tuna.

Barcelona 3
Tel 955 528 538 / 609 906 067
Open 11.00 – 21.00 Monday – Saturday
€ € € €

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Food 10 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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tomamojama-gildasgildas in olive oil, almonds, brined mussels

tomamojama-12Joaquín preparing Bloody Sherry cocktails

tomamojama-11Bloody Sherry: fino instead of vodka

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tomamojama-ling-roeJoaquín slicing cured ling roe

tomamojama-semi-cured-mojamasemi-cured tuna mojama

tomamojama-smoked-tunasmoked tuna belly

tomamojama-smoked-tuna-saladsmoked tuna with wakame & cherry toms

tomamojama-cured-mojama-olive-oil-caviarsalt-cured tuna mojama with olive oil “caviar”

tomamojama-sardinassardines and fresh cheese on “pan cristal”

tomamojama-ensaladillasensaladilla topped with grated mojama, salmon roe, grated ling roe

tomamojama-selectionpiquillo peppers, tuna ventresca, smoked tuna, tuna morillo

tomamojama-tuna-heartdried tuna heart with a shot of vodka

tomamojama-cheesecalecheesecake with PX

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tomamojama-19Ángela & Joaquín

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tomamojama-pairingswine pairings

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tomamojama-25upstairs tasting room

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Cañabota

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Cañabota is the name of a small grey shark that inhabits the deep waters off the Galician coast. It is also the name of the latest project by Juanlu Fernández (previously of Binomio and La Pepona fame) and even at first glance it’s easy to see that this is his dream come true. The clean bright space brings to mind a stylish white-tiled “pescadería” with an eye-catching seafood display, a long bar facing the open kitchen, and tall tables with stools running along a wall of windows. For me, the bar is the place to be 1) because it has comfortable low chairs and 2) to watch “the show” (of course).

Seafood is the star attraction here and the attention to quality is obvious. The menu starts off with hand-packed preserved fish and seafood items from the Real Conservera Española (Royal Spanish Cannery) which works exclusively with products from the Galician Ras, Atlantic Ocean and Cantabric Sea. Next up is a very well-thought out selection of seafood tapas and daily specials (the latter sold by weight), and meat lovers can choose between two char-grilled beef dishes. A short dessert list completes the menu. The wine list is still a “work in progress” but knowing Juanlu it will be one of the more interesting lists in town, and he also plans to offer full (150ml) and half (75ml) servings, the better to pair with different dishes.

I was VERY happy to see the return of Juanlu’s famous marinated sardines – nobody does them better. Also especially liked the sea bass with black trumpet mushrooms, char-grilled squid (a daily special), and the little onion crackers topped with larded tuna and parmesan. But the dish that really blew me away was the seafood-stuffed chipirones, so delicate and flavourful… can’t wait to try them again.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Orfila 3
Tel 954 870 298 / 690 876 523
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 19.30 – midnight
Monday – Saturday
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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canabota-cocktail“solid cocktail” Hidalgo fino, Lustau vermouth, trout roe, orange zest

canabota-ostrasgrilled oysters with toasted butter and artemia

canabota-sardinasTHOSE sardines

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canabota-higadoscod liver salad on mushroom slivers, baby spinach and lettuce,
fish emulsion and spicy vinegar

canabota-tostaonion cracker topped with larded tuna, grated manteca

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canabota-navajasrazor clams topped with pancetta and warm salsa verde

canabota-parmentiersquid ink potato parmentier with cuttlefish roe and chipirón

canabota-chipi-parrillachar-grilled squid

canabota-chipi-rellenoseafood-stuffed chipirones

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canabota-gambonGAMBÓN wrapped in seaweed, topped with pig trotter sauce

canabota-corvinasea bass with confit black trumpet mushrooms and fish emulsion

canabota-limonclever lemon meringue “pie”

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canabota-teamAngelica, Diego, Miguel, Marcos (head chef),
Juanlu (owner, front of house), Rafa (sous chef) Adrián

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Zero Tapas

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Chef Ernesto Malasaña likes to keep busy. After his hip and stylish Bar Antojo became one of the most popular tapas bars in calle Calatrava, at the north end of the Alameda, he then extended his scope by opening two other spots in the same street: La Niña Bonita (abacería and wine bar) and Nikkei Bar (Japanese-Peruvian fusion). His MpuntoR Group also includes Perro Viejo and Perrochiko near Plaza Encarnación and, further afield, a beachside restaurant and bar in Málaga called Pez Tomillo.

Zero Tapas is essentially an updated version of Bar Nikkei, which occupied this location until recently. It maintains the previous rustic chic ambiance with exposed brick walls, nice tiled floors and a corrugated iron ceiling, but mismatched tables and chairs have been replaced with more classic wood and leather furniture. There are a couple of tables at the front of the bar, and a bigger dining area in the back, but the place to be is still at the bar with a view of the open kitchen. We had one minor wait staff blip (yes, we know buñuelos are FRIED, thank you), but the service was otherwise efficient enough.

Can’t say too much about the food at this point as we had just stopped by to see the changes and then stayed for a couple of tapas. The menu is mostly “Mediterranean” with a few Asian fusion touches left over from Nikkei (here’s hoping they will bring back the fabulous presa nigiri!). There are a few tapas available, though it’s mostly large plates, good for sharing. Plenty on there to warrant another visit, but our tapas were a bit hit and miss. The buñuelos de bacalao (cod fritters) were super greasy and almost inedible, in contrast to the super tender and tasty pork tenderloin. Will update here when I’ve had a chance to revisit, hopefully soon.

Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Calatrava 30
Tel. 955 440 030
Open: 13.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – midnight
Closed: Tuesday all day and Wednesday lunchtime
€ € € €

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Food 5 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 8

zero-4

zero-bunuelosbuñuelos de bacalao

zero-porksolomillo Ibérico with sweet chilli sauce and potato purée

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Taberna Azahar

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A bar named after ME! 😉 I’ve actually known about this place for some time, but as it’s a way off the beaten path it took me awhile to finally get here. Taberna Azahar still maintains the traditions of a typical neighbourhood bar. The menu is written in chalk on the bar, there’s sawdust on the floor, walls are covered in knick knacks and memorabilia, and it’s busy and buzzy with locals. Owner Juan and barman Josema have been running the show since some time in the 80’s. With only a limited kitchen the tapas menu is short and full of typical Spanish comfort foods like spinach with chickpeas and albóndigas. Not really a place for a full meal, but it’s a great little beer and snack stop if you’re exploring this part of town.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Plaza San Julián
Tel 954 416 794
Open 13.00 – 17.00 – 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evening and Monday
€ €

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Food 5 | Wine 5 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

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azahar-albondigaspork meatballs in tomato sauce

azahar-arrozrice of the day

azahar-espinacasspinach with chickpeas

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azahar-juan-josemaJuan & Josema

azahar-18Josema does the math

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azahar-terraza

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Palo Cortao

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This charming little abacería cum sherry bar recently opened on the corner of Castelar and Harinas in the Pureta Arenal. It’s quite small, with just three tables and a corner bar, but it’s bright and open and attractive, and co-owners Ana Hergueta and Ángel Rodríquez are friendly and enthusiastic.

Sherries are the speciality, though there is a good selection of other Spanish wines too, accompanied by charcuterie, speciality canned foods, and a small selection of cooked tapas. Catas and other events are planned in the future. We’ll be back soon to sample more of their tapas (and sherry, of course).

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Castelar 2B
Tel 687 62 47 94
Open 12.30 – 16.30 / 20.00 – 23.00 Tuesday – Saturday
20.00 – 23.00 Monday
Closed Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 10 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

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palo-cortao-angel-anaco-owners Ángel & Ana

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