Blanco Cerrillo


Founded in 1926, Blanco Cerrillo has a semi-legendary status as the purveyor of the best boquerones en adobo (fried marinated anchovies) in Sevilla. It’s a small no frills, no fuss place (metal counter, tiny kitchen) just off the main shopping street of Tetuan, and is extremely popular for a pre or post shopping snack, so the bar and terrace are almost always packed. It’s a limited menu, but the fried fish and seafood are very good and most tapas cost about 1.80€. The anchovies really are worth going for: filleted, marinated, crispy fried deliciousness.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

José de Velilla 1
Tel 954 227 384
Open 11.30 – 16.30 / 19.30 – 23.30
Closed Sundays
€ €

orange orange orange
Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

boquerones en adobo

fried calamares

Back to Top
orange orange orange

Cruo Reyes Católicos

This is one of two new slightly upmarket bar-restaurants recently opened  by the Cruo group (the other is on the south side of the Alameda de Hércules), and which take them in something of a new direction. The locale is light and spacious – big windows, high ceilings, lots of exposed brick, and light wood floors and tables. The effect is both classy and comfortable.

The menu is quite extensive, with a lot of quality charcuterie a mix of traditional and more modern mainly large plates and some tapas. The best dish we sampled was a carpaccio of presa Ibérica with a strawberry vinaigrette, celery and wasabi. Definitely something to go back for. Service gave the impression of being a little bit inexperienced, but polite and helpful, and actually quite efficient. I like that they are open all day, making it a nice spot to stop for a late afternoon drink or snack.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Reyes Católicos 14
Tel 955 648 822
Open 13.00 – midnight Monday – Sunday
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

ensaladilla with prawns, toasted garlic, carabinero mayo, red onion, pickle

presa Ibérica carpaccio, with strawberry vinaigrette, celery, wasabi

flamenquín XXL

beef and pork burger

the green-eyes cocktail: orange wine, PX, vermouth

Back to Top
orange orange orange orange

Bartolomea

Almost exactly five years after opening the very popular La Brunilda, husband and wife team Diego & Esperanza now have a second restaurant with a completely new menu, just around the corner next to the Arenal Market. Bartolomea Resto & Grill does feel more like a restaurant than Brunilda, but has the same attention to quality and detail. It’s pleasantly light and airy inside, with big windows and light wood furnishings.

We resisted going on opening day (went the next day instead) and had a very enjoyable lunch. Favourite dishes were the sea bass ceviche, the croquetas del día (in this case cabrales cheese and apple) and the perfectly grilled pluma Ibérica.  It’s a shortish menu, with starters, fish & seafood and meat dishes offered as either tapas or raciones (small or big plates).  Although we were too full to try the desserts this time, I was happy to see the revival of one of my faves from La Brunilda’s early days – the watermelon granita with stawberries, basil gelée and passion fruit ice cream. Next time!

Bread Charge: 0.80€ per person

Arenal 1
(next to Mercado Arenal)
Tel 955 234 370
Open: 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.30
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

croquetas del día (these were cabrales cheese and apple)

sea bass ceviche with yucca chips

“fish & chips”
breaded marinated rosada with adobo mayo and yucca chips

prawn burger with avocado alioli and tempura onions

chargrilled presa Ibérica with apple purée and pistachio pesto

~ back to top ~
orange orange orange orange

El Bacalao

El Bacalao, which currently has two restaurants in Sevilla (one in Plaza Ponce de León, the other in Calle Tarifa), has been a fixture in city for as long as anyone can remember. They have recently renovated both the restaurant and menu at their Ponce de León location, and I was invited to sample this new menu with a group of other lucky food writers, bloggers, etc. I like what they’ve done with the place. It looks fresher and more welcoming, with a long bar as you enter and a few dining rooms both on the main floor and upstairs, though I would always opt to sit at the bar.

Our meal was served in a dining room at the back of the restaurant, and took the form of a tasting of thirteen menu items – four starters, seven main courses and two desserts, with either manzanilla sherry or white wine. And as you might expect given the name of the restaurant, bacalao (salt cod) figured prominently in the menu, from the signature bacalao al ajo confitado, through pavias and croquetas to an excellent bacalao tartare, though one of the dishes – the bacalao dorada – was too much salty for me (and that almost never happens, I love salty food). Other personal favourites included a lovely fresh spinach salad and the milhojas de cola de toro (oxtail).

And so a disclaimer here: my rating of the bar is based only on this one occasion, which overall was a very good experience. I shall try to pop in again soon as a “regular customer” at the bar, to see how things go during regular service. The good thing is I actually want to go back! So many thanks to El Bacalao for such a pleasant – and delicious – afternoon.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.90€ PER PERSON

Ponce de León 15
Tel 954 21 66 70
Open 8.00 – 12.00 for breakfast
12.00 – midnight Monday – Saturday for tapas
8.00 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 8| Service 8 | Ambiance 8

Cantabrian anchovies on toast with courgette alioli and lime foam

ensaladilla with king prawns, dried cherry toms, mayo foam

salt cod tartare, confit tomato, fresh chives, wasabi and balsamic vinegar spheres

spinach salad with walnuts, pine nuts and goat cheese ice cream

bacalao pavía with squid ink mayo, bacalao, spinach & pine nut croqueta

bacalao dorada

bacalao with confit garlic and tomato

bacalao loin with creamy leek brandada

bacalao cocochas “pil pil” with toasted garlic and chilis

oxtail in red wine with wonton pastry and slow-cooked egg yolk

selection of desserts

a lovely new rosé wine by Delgado Zuleta

Back to Top
orange orange orange orange

Maravilla Social Club

Maravilla is among a number of traditionally-styled-hipster small neighbourhood bars that have opened recently in Sevilla, in this case in the Macarena neighbourhood. It’s very much no-frills, with about half a dozen tables and a small terrace outside, but the food, a blend of traditional Andalucian and Italian, and vegetarian and eco friendly, is actually rather good. We especially loved the cauliflower in tempura and grilled pluma Ibérica.

Off the tourist beat, and not that easy to find if you’re not familiar with the barrio, but definitely worth a visit if you’re in that part of town.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Maravillas 1
Tel 643 371 148
Open 9.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
12.30 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

aji and chicken croquetas

tempura cauliflower

ginger-marinated salmon

pluma Ibérica

co-owners

Back to Top
orange orange orange orange

Vermutería Palabra de Bar


Vermouth (vermút in Castellano, vermú in “Andalúz” 😉 ) has always been available as an aperitif in Sevilla, but after being relegated to the choice of “old men in traditional bars” it is now enjoying a comeback and is being embraced anew by a younger generation. One of the establishments at the forefront of this resurgence is Vermutería Palabra de Bar, which after a brief spell in Plaza Regina has now moved to larger premises in Calle Sol. Owner Marijoe and barman Jorge  provide a friendly atmosphere, and a décor that’s both traditional and trendy  – painted exposed brick wall along the bar, large barrel tables at the front, as well as a couple of high tables outside. There’s a wide range of red and white vermouths with the accompaniments (oranges, olives and soda water) and a small tapas menu (also open for breakfast).  There are also small art exhibitions and occasional live music, usually on Tuesday evenings. A very cosy and comfortable neighbourhood bar.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Sol 3
Tel 653 91 36 29
Open 9.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
10.00 – 1.00 am Saturday
10.00 – 22.00 Sunday
€ € €

orange orange orange
Food 6 | Vermú 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

gildas

add your own soda

Jorge & MariJoe

Back to Top
orange orange orange

Patas de Gallo

Patas de Gallo opened in March 2016 and bills itself as a “grunge” (?) fusion gastrobar, and owner Felipe Oliver Cousinou is also the proprietor of food and wine shop Catabuche in the Puerta Real. The premises are very pleasant, with a kind of “bistro style” feel to them that includes a substantial bar area, plenty of patterned tiles and even a “Star Wars” wall.

Food is generally good, but the staff could do with a bit more training. There are plenty of nice wines on offer, but our server didn’t know much about them, or the dishes. I think the Andalusian dishes worked better than the fusion attempts, but that’s me talking. I often think fusion bars here in Sevilla count on the local clientele never having eaten the original real deal. Anyhow, it’s a nice bar, good for snacks and wine.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Carlos Cañal 32
Tel 689 714 365
Open 9.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
12.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

orange orange orange
Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service6 | Ambiance 6

cruquemoles… guac croquetas

crispy gyozas

grilled solomillo Ibérico with mojo mayo

Back to Top
orange orange orange

La Cata Ciega

Updated April 2017

If I hadn’t arranged to meet a friend here, on his recommendation, I might have never have gone into this unassuming little bar on Calle Zaragoza, which has recently changed hands. And that would have been a great shame, because it turned out to be a total gem, with an equally delightful owner, Álvaro Harillo. Like one of his various amontillados, this is a bar that has had two lives. It first opened in El Puerto Santa Maria in May 2012, but then closed in January 2016, after which it relocated to Seville, opening again in November 2016 – complete with the original bar. And since that first unexpected visit it’s become a real favourite.

It’s a traditional sit-or-stand at the bar neighbourhood local, with a small but carefully selected traditional tapas menu that includes an unusually good ensaladilla, melt-in-your-mouth carrillada de jabolí (wild boar cheek), marinated tuna, and daily stews. The high point though is an excellent wine list of less commercial brands, and, as you might expect from a bar that started life in El Puerto, an excellent variety of sherries. This is definitely a great find.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ PER PERSON

Zaragoza 15
Tel 622 843 374
Open 13.00 – 16.00 Tuesday – Saturday
13.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

ensaladilla with tuna

timbal of octopus with lots of smoky pimiento

king prawns and leeks with grain mustard and oloroso

marinated tuna with seaweed “spaghetti”

retinto beef carpaccio with mango

presa Ibérica de Bellota

wild boar pork cheek

lemon pie

Abraham and owner Álvaro

Back to Top
orange orange orange orange

Updated April 2017

Taberna del Alabardero

The Alabardero is in some ways a slightly unusual creature, part boutique hotel (7 rooms), part catering school, part bistro/cafeteria/tapas bar, and part restaurant, all housed in a classic 19th century “casa palacio” with lots of beautiful tiles and antique style furniture. It all seems to work well together, though, and since opening its doors in 1992 the Alabardero has become one of the pillars of Sevillano gastronomy.

The cafeteria and tapas bar area can be found in in the main courtyard as you enter, with the bistro off to one side (which offers an excellent set menu). The restaurant is upstairs, specializing in high quality Andalusian dishes. We opted for tapas this visit and other than one slight blip – the croquetas could have been tastier – we loved every dish. Service is very attentive and, although perhaps a bit formal, it’s in keeping with the elegant surroundings and it’s actually refreshing to find such well-trained staff.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Zaragoza 20
Tel 954 502 721
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – 23.30
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

two kinds of croquettes: mushroom and seafood

marinated salmon

foie micuit with ginger toast

grilled octopus with potato purée and smoked paprika

grilled beef tenderloin with carrot and beet purées

pear tatin with chocolate ice cream

Azabache cake, chocolate, sable Breton, apple créme, saffron brûlée

the bistro

central courtyard

Back to Top
orange orange orange orange

Zalata

Zalata is a slightly off the beaten track neighbourhood bar run by husband & wife team Younes & Viviana. And lucky for me that they happen to be in MY neighbourhood! The modest sized menu is a fusion of Spanish, Moroccan and Peruvian, with a few touches acquired by Younes on his travels, and includes salads, hot and cold meat and fish dishes and desserts.

We enjoyed a varied selection that included really crunchy & tasty chicken croquettes, a deliciously light and citrusy ceviche, and perfectly grilled presa Ibérica. All of which served to bring me back again a few days later to test out some more of the menu – fried chicken bits with fried spiralised potato? Wonderful! Swordfish with a radish slaw? Equally good. I even went so far as to have a dessert (well okay, my friend did) – a dark chocolate cake with a light fresh chestnut sauce.

Excellent friendly service makes you feel right at home. And they’re even open Sundays and Mondays! Already a neighbourhood favourite, as you can tell.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Doña María Coronel 17
Tel 854 550 358 / 692 901 092
Open 9.00 – midnight  Monday – Sunday
Kitchen closed 17.00 – 19.30
€ € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

artichoke salad with red & green peppers, sun-dried tomato, burrata

sea bass ceviche

chicken croquetas

fried chicken bites and potato spirals with 2 sauces

squid ink ravioli filled with chocos & prawns

swordfish with radish slaw

char-grilled octopus brochette with celery purée and bonito flakes

presa Ibérica with potato purée
(usually it comes with sweet potato croquetas)

beef tenderloin with tortilla de patatas

chocolate cake with chestnut orange cream

Younes & Viviana


Back to Top
orange orange orange orange