Tag: seville

Five Fab Tapas Bars in Sevilla

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It’s often said that the best way to get to know a different culture is through its food, and Sevilla is no exception. The name of the game here is tapas – the small snacks eaten with a drink in bars and cafés. Although some good ones can be found in the more touristy districts, the best are usually those frequented by the locals, so don’t be afraid to do a bit of exploring. There are so many really good tapas bars, ranging from the traditional to the modern, that choosing the five best is a nigh-on impossible task, but these are five of my personal favourites, chosen from five different barrios…

Vineria San Telmo
From the mottos and quotations in several languages painted on the ceiling to an extensive and eclectic selection of wines by the glass, the Vineria San Telmo has been moulded by the philosophy of owner Juan Tarquini. The service here is probably the best of any tapas bar that I’ve been to, and the regularly updated menu is interesting and varied, with both traditional and innovative tapas and several tasty vegetarian options. Try the aubergine, goat cheese and tomato tower, the black pudding crepe in red pepper sauce, or the grilled tuna with tempura fried onions, and finish off with one of the homemade desserts on display in the cabinet just inside the door, which are just as delicious as they look. The busy outdoor terrace has a nice view down the Murillo gardens.

Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4 (Santa Cruz)
tel. 954 410 600

Eslava
Bar Eslava, just off the Plaza San Lorenzo, is definitely one of those bars that’s always packed with locals, and it’s not hard to understand why. The tapas are top notch and are very reasonably priced. Among my favourites are pork ribs in honey sauce and solomillo in dill sauce, but whatever you try you won’t be disappointed. It’s noisy and convivial, and quite small, so remember to get there early!

c/Eslava 5 (San Lorenzo)
tel. 954 906 568

La Azotea
La Azotea is a cosy and intimate tapas bar and restauraunt just five minutes’ walk from the main shopping streets, and thanks to owners Juan and Jeanine it has a deserved reputation for excellent food and service. There are two menus, one seasonal, and one that changes every week or even daily, depending on what looks good and fresh at the market. Like a lot of places, it’s tapas at the bar, and full or half raciones at the tables. Best to turn up early, as it gets very crowded, very quickly.

Jesús del Gran Poder, 31 (Centro)
tel 955 116 748

Bodeguita Romero
If you want the very best pringá montaditos (a small toasted bun filled with pork, chorizo and blood sausage) in town, Bodeguita Romero is the place to come. Also come here for the marinated potatoes, amazing stewed pig’s cheeks, spinach with garbanzos and Argentinian beef. Great atmosphere, traditional without being old-fashioned, and the staff are efficient and friendly. For me it’s become something of a home from home.

c/ Harinas 10 (Arenal)
tel. 954 229 556

La Primera del Puente
Directly across the river from the Torre del Oro is the delightful Primera del Puente. The decor of this definitely traditional bar celebrates Seville’s nautical past, the service is fast and friendly, and the tapas at the bar are excellent. The speciality is fish and seafood – try the pepito de gambas (a small toasted sandwich with langostines and alioli), grilled swordfish, battered prawns, chiperones or puntillitas and, well, just about anything else, all of it really fresh. La Primera also has a riverside terrace across the street (serves raciones only) with a great view of the city. Lovely and naturally cool in summer.

c/ Bétis 66 (Triana)
tel. 954 276 918

Sevilla Walking Tours

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Today’s post is by guest writer Peter Tatford (aka Sevilla English)
who tells us about his unique walking tour service.

Pretty much wherever you go on holiday these days, one of the services you’ll find on offer will be guided tours of the city, and/or its individual monuments and museums. These can be fun, informative and useful, but during the seven years I’ve lived in Seville, I’ve all too often seen large herds of tourists following disconsolately in the wake of a single guide, and wondered what they were getting out of it. And it started me thinking “What would I like a walking tour to be like?”

My walking tours are designed to be small and informal, so people can feel personally involved with what they see, and can ask questions or add their own comments or experiences without feeling intimidated.

There’s a mix of history, legend, and anecdote, which Seville has plenty of, and I also point out some of the best places to eat, suggest places to go and things to do, and say something about what it’s like to live here.

Even though I have lived here for over seven years, I am always discovering new things about the city’s customs and culture, its past, and how, timeless though it seems, it is, in fact, a living, breathing community.

The Sevilla I will show you is my Sevilla. I hope you will find it as beautiful and fascinating as I do.

We usually start at 10.30 and the tours are about two hours long – there may also be a coffee break included, depending on the route taken. You will either be picked up at your hotel, or a central meeting point will be arranged.

For more information or to book a tour you can contact me at:

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All in a Morning’s Work…

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I was invited to an ice cream tasting this morning by my friend Eduardo who runs Different Spain, a fabulous private travel and concierge service. You may recall that a couple of months ago Edu and I went to an olive oil tasting together at the Basilippo Hacienda just outside Sevilla, and it turns out that this ice cream tasting, held at Mascarpone as a part of their new “Flavour Sensations” range, was going to include three flavours made from Basilippo’s exquisite extra virgin olive oil.

Have to admit I’m not much of an ice cream person. Or maybe I’m a purist? I only eat ice cream once or twice a year and my favourite flavour has always been vanilla. But it was fun to try a few very different flavours, such as:

  • vanilla olive oil
  • gazpacho topped with balsamic vinegar
  • chocolate with hot chilis
  • vanilla bonbon filled with wine and covered in dark chocolate
  • chocolate bonbon filled with olive oil and covered in white chocolate
  • mascarpone with salted sunflower & pumpkin seeds, mixed with dulce de leche

The surprise hit for me was gazpacho – it really worked! I also quite liked the mascarpone ice cream and the wine-filled bonbon. Later Eduardo and I were given some frozen fruit pops to try. They are not on the menu yet but I quite enjoyed my strawberry one, which was made from 45% fresh fruit. As for the rest, it was all very interesting and some of the flavours were quite nice, but I think I’ll stick with vanilla…

 

Graffiti Buster

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What do you think of graffiti?

In general it just looks like vandalism to me. Okay, every once in a blue moon you get a Haring, Basquiat or Banksy, but you know… hardly ever. Mostly it’s crappy blobby spray-painted messes that only serve to make neighbourhoods look shabby.

I guess when a building is abandoned, like the one in the before & after pics on the left, and its windows have already been covered over with layers of tacky posters, it’s not any worse to have a couple of guys from a local gallery come and paint that over with their website logo. But many shop and restaurant owners would have to repaint their properties on a weekly basis just to have clean walls for a day or two.

So I was surprised to come across Alexandra Del Bene the other day while on my way home from a walk around the Alameda. She was busy with both spray cans and paint brushes painting the window protectors of the Santa Marta Bar (home of Sevilla’s largest flamenquín!), but it looked to me as if she were doing a job and not just a hit and run burst of “artistic expression”, so I stopped and asked if she’d been commissioned to paint the Santa Marta. Turns out that a lot of people have been commissioning her to paint their storefronts so that they won’t get vandalised by roving so-called “graffiti artists”, who curiously don’t vandalise Alexandra’s stuff. I guess it’s a sort of professional courtesy?

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[click to enlarge]

Alexandra showed me her business cards, which are decorated with pics of her various projects, and it turned out that one – a candy store – was just around the corner, so I also got a snap of that one. Anyhow, we had a nice long chat and it struck me how much more interesting life is when you stop and talk to people instead of just walking by.

Cathedral Rooftop Visit

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These are a few photos I took whilst trying not to panic the other day when I went on that fabulous Cathedral rooftop tour. It truly was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences, though not the best place for an agoraphobic like me. But I was very pleased with myself that I managed to get through and even take that video I posted below. I admit that a few of these photos were actually taken with my eyes shut – especially those where I had to lean over the railing under the vaulted Cathedral ceiling. Later when I got back down I could not believe that I’d really been standing behind those huge wooden angels. In fact, I still can’t believe it. Go me!