bar | Azahar Sevilla Tapas

The latest by chef Rafa Zafra, Sevilla’s prodigal son, has got the city all abuzz. Zafra returns after his success with Estimar in Barcelona and Madrid and presents Mareantes as a “cerveceria” with the focus on seafood. Located in a prestigious location facing the Puerta Jerez at first glance the attractive ground floor bar area could pass as an upscale coastal beer bar, with its ample side walk terrace and an upstairs dining room, but the menu tells another story.

Don’t get me wrong, there is an excellent seafood selection and the quality is there. Aside from the printed menu there is an impressive display case as you enter showing off what is on offer, with a few daily specials. But even for this level of quality fish and seafood the prices seem way out there. One scallop (okay, it came all the way from Cambados) was 12€, while some clams and oysters can set you back 9 or 6 euros each. Other items are sold by weight or as raciones. I also had a look at the wine list, which is actually very interesting, lots going on there, but a glass of an okay pleasant albariño at 6.50€ seemed a bit excessive. As did some of the prices for sherries, in some cases double what I know what they cost elsewhere.

Which brings me to the conclusion that it seems you are expected to be happy paying these eye-watering prices in order to enjoy a special ambiance with exceptional service in a prestigious location but there are a couple of issues with that, specifically with the ambiance and service. So then what’s left? A great location, high-quality high-priced food with over-priced wines at a place calling itself a “cerveceria”. I’m sure they know who they expect their clientele to be, but it’s sure not me, and I’m not sure if it’s even most Sevillanos.

Bread/Service Charge: 2.50€ PER PERSON