Housed in the Cavalta Boutique Hotel (5-star GL), Balbuena y Huertas first opened in the summer of 2023 with chef José Luis Pastrana at the helm, producing four sensational seasonal tasting menus and garnering a Michelin Guide recommendation within the first few months, followed by a Repsol Guide recommendation. This past summer the restaurant underwent various changes. Chef Pastana moved on and in his place Paloma Silva Rosselló is now in charge of the kitchen with a more traditional concept along with one set-menu option. Full disclosure – I was invited to try the new offer, but as always under no obligation, and all opinions here are my own.
The restaurant and cocktail bar take up most of the ground floor space next to the reception area. Decor is chic and modern while incorporating the essence of the old structure. The recent renovation left many of the original attributes intact, but the above photo of the facade has been tweaked, so when you visit be prepared for an antique ceramic ad of questionable taste on the corner of the building. Some may not mind but as I know my audience, a gentle warning.
A chef’s choice menu had been arranged for us but my companion and I preferred to choose a la carte. The first thing we noticed was the wine list. Previously boasting more than 140 references, the present list is quite pedestrian with only a couple of decent options by the glass, and without even one brut cava or sherry (!). The food was well-presented and the service was pleasant and professional. Unfortunately each dish missed the mark somehow, ranging from just okay to inedible. I won’t to go into all the details here but will leave a note below as to why we felt each dish didn’t quite work.
I hope this will be taken as constructive criticism. My companion felt I was being generous rating them with three oranges (which means it’s good!) but after meeting chef Paloma I wanted to give her the benefit of the doubt that improvements can be made. At the moment the price / value for money ratio is not balanced. And I question them continuing to present their Michelin and Repsol recommendations as up to date.
Bread/Service Charge: unknown
San Jacinto 89
Tel 955 442 081
Restaurant 13.00 -midnight
€ € € €
Food 4 | Wine 4 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8
Cantabrian anchovy on brioche with pipirrana
(dense tasteless brioche)
smoked sardine on brioche with strawberry jam
(the brioche again, and the jam was a shockingly bad idea)
pavías de bacalao
(nice crispy tempura batter but the fish was soggy)
corvina ceviche
(lovey fish, lots of lime, but the maiz wasn’t toasted so was hard and chewy)
tempura aubergine with chive sauce
(good sauce, good tempura, skin left on the aubergine made it bitter and chewy)
meloso rice with setas
(rich deep flavour and nice setas, but undercooked rice, inedible)
