After close to 30 years as co-owner of the famed Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo, Ramón López de Tejada has moved on and his first new project is Gran Café España, which opened this spring. A prime location just a stone’s throw from the Plaza del Duque and La Campana, the well-lit L-shaped corner spot has a long bar (with both bar stools and tall tables) to one side and a dining area on the other. It is Ramón’s tribute to the great sevillano cafés of the past but with a clear nod to the present. Décor is elegant but casual, with a playful use of mis-matched antique mirrors, chandeliers and with dark blue velvet curtains that feel both warm and welcoming. I have to say that after the cosy super-rustic Abacería I was a bit surprised by this “new look” and at first wondered if it was geared towards the tourist trade, given the location. But after several visits now I can see the appeal to locals as well.
The menu offers a range of exquisite charcuterie and cheeses (Spanish, French and Italian), oysters and caviar, as well as hot dishes (tapas and raciones). Some of the house specialities include the crazy delicious patatas arrieras (crispy potato topped with “salsa Gran Cafe” and gambas al ajillo), tender lamb pincho moruno, steak tartare (prepared at your table) and excellent croquetas de jamón. I will definitely be back to try some of the other dishes that Ramón recommended. The extensive wine list includes several sherries and both national and international references. Service is professional and friendly, but perhaps best if you aren’t in a hurry.
Open for breakfast, which ranges from a simple tostada to the full “Gran Café España”. Special attention is paid to the coffee here.
Be sure to look out for regular tasting events.
Bread/Service Charge: 0€ (picos, regaña, etc on the menu)
Javier Lasso de la Vega 14
Tel. 955 48 07 91
Open 9.00 – 22.30 Wednesday – Monday
Breakfast / All Day Kitchen
Closed Tuesday
€ € € €
Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8
jamón Ibérico de bellota
“sobao pasiego” topped with sobresada ibérica and anchovy
vermouth
puff pastry filled with chorizo and gorganzola
buttery “emparedado royal” with novillo roast beef
patatas arrerias
steak tartare prepared at your table
calamares fritos
grilled lamb pincho moruno
cheeses: Pajarete and Savel
owner Ramón López de Tejada