I’ve been looking forward to this opening ever since I first heard that Ramón López de Tejada would be taking over the space in Calle Gamazo that was home to the legendary Restaurante Enrique Becerra for over 40 years. And I was also happy to hear that Enrique himself was pleased with this choice. What can I say? Enrique’s restaurant was one of my first ever “second homes” here. I have kept the Enrique Becerra page up here as a tribute, just like I’ve done with Ramón’s Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo (now passed on to new owners). And so time moves on, we move on… let’s take a look at this new spot.
It’s… definitely different. Much more “modern”, bigger windows, so it’s brighter, with the tapas bar downstairs (tall tables) and a formal dining room upstairs. I guess I’ll get used to it, but I can’t help remembering how it used to be. Meanwhile, I love the colour scheme, the space is well thought out and attractive. The staff are terrific and there’s an impressive wine list.
The menu is short with the focus on classic offerings such as top charcuterie and cheeses, quality tinned fish, cold dishes to start and then a small selection of hot dishes, including fritos and stews (there is also a guiso del día). And thank goodness Ramón’s fabulous tomato soup from his Abacería days is on the menu, god I’ve missed it. And his chorizo and chopped egg croquetas. Not all of the old Abacería menu is here (yet) but it’s early days and so far it looks promising. I’ll be back soon!
Bread/Service Charge: 1€ regañá / 0.75€ picos (por bolsa)
Zaragoza 70
Tel. 955 480 678
Open 9.00 – 23.00 Monday – Friday
10.00 – 23.00 Saturday
10.00 – 17.00 Sunday
€ € € €
Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8
torreznos
patatas aliñadas with melva
pavía de bacalao
chorizo and chopped egg croquetas
tomato, bread and hierbabuena soup
secreto Ibérico a la castellana
Ramón López de Tejada
upstairs dining room
