Martes 13

In the cultures of Spain and Greece, and in the countries of Latin America, Tuesday the 13th  is considered unlucky, and there are still many people who have a phobia about this day (trezidavomartiofobia), and who will not travel anywhere on this day because of the superstition. It is also common for planes to have no row 13, as it is assumed that passengers wouldn’t buy tickets. And many buildings “skip a floor” from 12 to 14 so they won’t have a 13th floor.

The negative associations of Tuesday, 13 have no scientific basis, and it should be clear that it is only a myth. Indeed, many people regard it rather as a day of good luck, to the extent that on that day, gamblers often bets are made on that number. The associations are similar to those of Friday 13 in Anglo-Saxon cultures or Friday 17 in Italy.

Why the 13th?

The number thirteen has been considered ill-omened from antiquity because there were twelve apostles at the Last Supper, and Jesus Christ was the 13th, and he died. The Kabbalah, like the Norse legends, lists 13 evil spirits, and Revelation Chapter 13 is about the antichrist and the beast. In the Tarot, this number represents death.

Why Tuesday?

The combination with Tuesday is thought by some to have its origin at the end of the Middle Ages, as it was on Tuesday May 29, 1453 that the city of Constantinople fell to the Turks.

An even older possible reason is that Spanish martes (Tuesday) is derived from the name of the planet Mars (marte), which in the Middle Ages was called “the little evil” and represents will, energy, tension and aggressiveness. Mars (Ares in Greek) is the god of war, and Tuesday being ruled by Mars, is associated with destruction, blood and violence. Finally, legend says that the confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel occurred on Tuesday 13th (or perhaps Friday 17th).

Not being superstitious I’ve never worried about these things. But even if I were I reckon that because I’m not Spanish this doesn’t apply to me, and because I’m living in Spain I’m also safe from unlucky Friday the 13th.  Win-win. But just in case…f_goodluck.gif

Semana Santa 2011

only in Sevilla…

Next week is Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Sevilla, starting on Palm Sunday, April 17th. For those who haven’t experienced, or don’t know about it, it’s all about the processions – more than sixty of them during the course of the week, including those of the Madrugá on the Thursday night through to Friday morning. Each procession carries statues of the Christ and the Virgin from its home church to the Cathedral and back again, accompanied by nazarenos and penitentes carrying candles and crosses, and the distinctive music of the Semana Santa marching bands.

Because this is the largest and most elaborate celebration of its kind in the world, people come from all over Spain and even further afield to see it. With such large crowds, especially in the centre and around the cathedral, it is almost impossible for the residents to live normal lives, and for the last 18 years I’ve spent most of Semana Santa pretty much trapped in my flat just up the street from the cathedral. But this year I will be spending it in my new home near the Alfalfa for the first time, and I really don’t know what to expect in the way of crowds and inconvenience.

In retrospect it seems almost prescient that I took this video last year of the Santa Cruz procession, which plays my favourite marcha, the haunting La Madrugá by Abel Moreno. Little did I know that it was going to be the last time I would watch it go past below my bedroom balconies…

Barrio La Alfalfa

[click on image to enlarge]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted here and the main reason for that is I’ve spent the past three months looking for, moving into and getting settled in a new apartment. For over 17 years I lived on calle Mateos Gago, 16 of those years in a corner building where I had lovely balconies and a fabulous view of the Giralda tower. When I found out in December that my landlord wouldn’t be renewing my contract I was devastated and convinced I couldn’t be happy living anywhere else but on MY street. How wrong I was!

After much searching I was getting quite discouraged and then one day a friend of mine noticed a for rent sign up on a building just off the Plaza Alfalfa and gave me a call. I went to have a look and it was love at first sight. It’s much bigger than my old place and has a huge terrace, and after a month of unpacking and organising it’s starting to actually look like a home. Though it’s felt like Home since day one.

I’m also loving the barrio. The whole style here is different from the barrio Santa Cruz. More homey, no tourists or souvenir shops. In fact, it’s full of wonderful – and useful! – shops, like bakeries, supermarkets (3 just off the plaza, one with a fab fish section), a gourmet butcher, florist, “euro shop”, convenience store, pharmacy, fruit & veg shop, a place that makes churros & crisps, and lots of little boutiques. There are also lots of tapas bars full of locals. The Plaza itself – about a two-minute walk from home – is always bustling and was recently pedestrianised, making it a pleasant place to sit out in the sun and enjoy a beer and a tapa.

I’m very pleased with the new barrio. It feels very comfortable and more “authentic” to where I was before. And I can still see the top of the Giralda tower when I look out my bedroom balcony…