Last week I had the wonderful opportunity of taking a tour of the Cathedral rooftops. Still editing those photos but meanwhile here’s a short video I made while very close up to the Giralda with the bells ringing, which was both exciting and a bit scary.
[click on image to enlarge]
The brand new Espacio Metropol Parasol, known locally, for obvious reasons, as the “Setas” (Mushrooms), rears its head like some giant, modernistic sculpture above the Plaza de la Encarnación, in almost the exact centre of the Casco Antiguo, where its futuristic latticework construction and fluid, curved appearance are in marked contrast to its surroundings. Like a lot of people, at first I wasn’t sure if I loved it or loathed it, but now it feels like it belongs and it’s well worth a visit for a number of reasons, apart from simply gawping.
Underneath the structure is the Antiquarium, where you can view the Roman ruins uncovered when work on the site began. At ground level is the Encarnación Market, above which is a plaza in the shade of the parasols. I think the space is rather bare, and prefer the shade of the big trees on the other side of the square, but perhaps too much clutter would interfere with its intended use for concerts and other events. You can also take the lift up to the mirador/walkway at the top of the parasols, which opened last Wednesday, and enjoy the breathtaking panorama of the city below. A circular restaurant where you will be able to enjoy the view over a meal and a drink is due to open soon.
I went up to the top of the parasol on Friday and have to say I enjoyed the curviness of the structure as much as the fabulous views. I could also see my cat in the upstairs window of my rooftop terrace, which felt… odd. Can’t wait to go up at night.
Opening hours: 10am – 2pm / 5.30 – 10pm
Cost: 2 euros for non-residents
Today’s post is by guest contributor Kim from Becoming Sevillana
During my year and a half in Seville, I have been trying to find out what it means to be Sevillana. Some aspects of my British roots are ingrained in me, such as the incessant need to apologise and give thanks unnecessarily, but like most Sevillanos I long for the festive season, for Semana Santa (Holy Week), and most importantly, la feria de abril.
As its name indicates, it is normally held in April, two weeks after Easter, which is later this year, making it fall in May (2nd-8th). It is a week-long celebration revolving around friends, family, eating and drinking. It is a sensory overload – of colour: women sporting their vibrant trajes de flamenca and funnily-named pinstriped casetas lining the streets – and music: the constant melody of sevillanas will definitely be an earworm by the end of the week.
Feria takes place in the Los Remedios area, to the west of the city. The real (feria site) is an impressive 450,000m², a vast space that sits empty for the remaining 51 weeks of the year. The land is divided into 15 streets named after bullfighting greats, and accommodates 1048 casetas – temporary marquee style establishments, where people meet, eat, get merry and of course dance sevillanas.
Continue reading “La Feria de Abril”
only in Sevilla…
Next week is Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Sevilla, starting on Palm Sunday, April 17th. For those who haven’t experienced, or don’t know about it, it’s all about the processions – more than sixty of them during the course of the week, including those of the Madrugá on the Thursday night through to Friday morning. Each procession carries statues of the Christ and the Virgin from its home church to the Cathedral and back again, accompanied by nazarenos and penitentes carrying candles and crosses, and the distinctive music of the Semana Santa marching bands.
Because this is the largest and most elaborate celebration of its kind in the world, people come from all over Spain and even further afield to see it. With such large crowds, especially in the centre and around the cathedral, it is almost impossible for the residents to live normal lives, and for the last 18 years I’ve spent most of Semana Santa pretty much trapped in my flat just up the street from the cathedral. But this year I will be spending it in my new home near the Alfalfa for the first time, and I really don’t know what to expect in the way of crowds and inconvenience.
In retrospect it seems almost prescient that I took this video last year of the Santa Cruz procession, which plays my favourite marcha, the haunting La Madrugá by Abel Moreno. Little did I know that it was going to be the last time I would watch it go past below my bedroom balconies…
[click on image to enlarge]
It’s been a while since I’ve posted here and the main reason for that is I’ve spent the past three months looking for, moving into and getting settled in a new apartment. For over 17 years I lived on calle Mateos Gago, 16 of those years in a corner building where I had lovely balconies and a fabulous view of the Giralda tower. When I found out in December that my landlord wouldn’t be renewing my contract I was devastated and convinced I couldn’t be happy living anywhere else but on MY street. How wrong I was!
After much searching I was getting quite discouraged and then one day a friend of mine noticed a for rent sign up on a building just off the Plaza Alfalfa and gave me a call. I went to have a look and it was love at first sight. It’s much bigger than my old place and has a huge terrace, and after a month of unpacking and organising it’s starting to actually look like a home. Though it’s felt like Home since day one.
I’m also loving the barrio. The whole style here is different from the barrio Santa Cruz. More homey, no tourists or souvenir shops. In fact, it’s full of wonderful – and useful! – shops, like bakeries, supermarkets (3 just off the plaza, one with a fab fish section), a gourmet butcher, florist, “euro shop”, convenience store, pharmacy, fruit & veg shop, a place that makes churros & crisps, and lots of little boutiques. There are also lots of tapas bars full of locals. The Plaza itself – about a two-minute walk from home – is always bustling and was recently pedestrianised, making it a pleasant place to sit out in the sun and enjoy a beer and a tapa.
I’m very pleased with the new barrio. It feels very comfortable and more “authentic” to where I was before. And I can still see the top of the Giralda tower when I look out my bedroom balcony…