Tag: sevilla

Rosario Revisited

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I first met Rosario in the spring of 2018 when I stopped in at Bodega San José, which she has been running, first with her husband and then her children, for over 60 years. I’d been there before, but as I wanted to add it to Sevilla Tapas I did my usual photos and chat thing. And well, what a woman! I immediately got a girl crush on her and since then would stop in to say hola and listen to her stories while she held my hands in hers.

So of course I was concerned about her and the fate of the bar in the wake of Covid, and finally managed to visit there this past weekend. I wasn’t even sure if they had reopened but wanted to stop by on the off chance and ask about Rosario. And not only was the bar open but there was Rosario!

Turns out she’s been working there every day since lockdown was lifted at the end of June, making her amazing boquerones al vinagre and THAT tortilla de patatas. What a woman. She told me she turned 90 on July 14th. I said “What?? You’re 90??” And she said “Well l was born in 1930, you do the math!” ? And well that totally made my day, my week… just knowing that she’s okay. Icing on the cake was later when my friend remarked on how Rosario’s face totally lit up when she saw me. I mean, I saw it too but it was nice to know I hadn’t just imagined it. <3

San Lorenzo 2020

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san lorenzo 2020

Today is the Día de San Lorenzo. In case you don’t know, the martyr San Lorenzo was put to a slow and painful death on top of a large gridiron with live coals beneath it and, the legend concludes that, after enduring the pain for a very long time he made his famous cheerful remark, “I’m well done on this side. Turn me over!”.

This is the first time in over five years that I haven’t attended the hectic San Lorenzo Day festivities at the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo. Because of Covid, Ramón and Carmen took the decision not to reopen their bar until September. In any case, this celebration is not one that lends itself to social distancing. The place is packed all afternoon long, standing room only, with Ramón passing around platters of grilled flesh (sardines, chicken legs, sausages, etc) with everyone drinking a punch from Huelva called ponche alosnero.

It’s always a crazy time and I miss it. <3

Open in August!

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Every year I write up a list of bars and restaurants in Sevilla that will be open in August. Used to be that almost every place closed, shops too, and Sevilla was quite a ghost town. In some ways I kind of liked that. Broke things up a bit, with a change of rhythm. Everything slowed down appropriately, in terms of The Heat. But the past few years there have been throngs of hapless HOT tourists wandering all over town, tour guides risking heat stroke taking out group after group, all defying the weather. It was getting crazy. It WAS crazy.

And now it’s crazy in a different way.

Anyhow CLICK HERE to see the August 2020 list. These are all independently run places and they can all use our support. So if you’re hungry in Sevilla these are some great bars and restaurants to go to that are also doing well with Covid health and safety protocols. Also some good take-away and home delivery options. 🙂

La Azotea at Home

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lunch (3)

La Azotea was the first restaurant in Sevilla (that I know of) to start offering pick up and delivery services. They were on it just like that, up and running just four days after Lockdown. Impressive. Co-owners Jeanine and Juan, along with their amazing team, have been keeping Sevilla fed and happy all this time, and now it was my turn thanks to my London friends Dan & Deb.

We’ve been staying in touch, and looking forward to meeting up again some day at Las Teresas. THEN, I got a surprise voice message from Jeanine the other day saying that those two lovelies had purchased a voucher for me to get some home delivery. So nice of them! As you know, I am still mostly keeping myself in Phase 1 of the de-escalation process, while the rest of the country has moved on to Phase 3. Which means I still haven’t dared to go out to a bar or restaurant, even for a Cold Beer O’clock. And as much as cooking lunch has been one of the things saving me from going completely bonkers from boredom at home, this was a total treat. Really my dream La Azotea meal.

lunch (1)

I got one of the saquitas (crispy pastry filled with prawns, cheese and leeks), my favourite battered prawn salad with kimchi sauce, THOSE rabbit ribs and a bottle of Chan de Rosas albariño. Heaven.

lunch (2)
Jeanine with my delivery
it was SO hard not to give her a big hug

azotea team
Team Azotea

Now La Azotea is open for restaurant service (at their Conde de Barajas location) and they have everything perfectly set up for proper social distancing, and are also continuing with take-away and delivery service. Whatever it takes, these guys are there for you. xx

A Stroll Through Sevilla

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The thing about my rooftop walks is, now that it’s heating up, I have to either go up early morning or else after 8 pm because any shade up there totally disappears around noon. And since I’ve got used to lazy mornings, well, it’s evenings or nothing. But because I had to take out rubbish in the afternoon I ended up taking the (extra) long way (6000 steps) to the supermarket because I was dying to see my Sevilla again. I decided to go as far as Plaza Virgen de los Reyes (my favourite square) and was surprised to find out it was basically a construction site. Turns out they are using this “down time” to finally pedestrianise Mateas Gago, the street that comes off the square and where I lived the first 18 years. Bad news for the bars that are already going to struggle without any tourists, but I suppose there was never going to be a good time to do this.

It was lovely to be out walking around again, and I managed to stay at least 2 metres away from people, but it was shocking to see how many still aren’t wearing masks. I had mine on and nearly suffocated – it was 33º by the time I went out – but I mean, c’mon guys. If/when the second wave hits it will be largely due to these Covidiots. Though as my friend Ricardo tells me, there really aren’t any “Covidiots”, they are just the same idiots as always.

Gotta say it was tempting to sit down somewhere and enjoy a cold beer, but I’m not there yet. Perhaps in a couple of weeks, depending on how things go. Meanwhile, enjoy this stroll through Sevilla. It really my heart good.

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