I first met Victor Gamero many years ago when he was head chef at Alcuza. Then in September 2020 Victor opened this charming abacería a stone’s throw from Triana Market. El Mercader is a cosy neighbourhood bar that offers an excellent selection of charcuterie and cheeses, along with hot and cold tapas. Although there is no actual kitchen, chef Victor has prepared several dishes that he finishes off at the bar, including octopus with pimentón potatoes, “MexDiterráneo” tuna tartare, baked marinated swordfish with leek purée and tender lacquered pork ribs.

Then there’s the wine. The wine list is varied and always changing and Victor is happy to make recommendations. You can order by the glass or bottle, or if you prefer, you can even buy a bottle off the shelf and, for a very reasonable 8€ corkage fee, have it served at your table.

This is very much a family affair and attention to quality is apparent, even down to the gorgeous crusty sourdough bread, artisanal crisps, gourmet picos and regañá. Keep an eye out for special wine tasting events.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.20€ PER PERSON

Antillano Campos 15
Tel 609 56 20 42
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday & Monday
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

chicharrones de la casa

chicharrones de Cádiz

mature raw milk goat cheese (Guarromántico) by Quesos y Besos

salchichón Ibério cular

ensaladilla with gambas al ajillo (and ajillo mayo)

caña de lomo Ibérico

Cantabrian anchovies on toasted brioche

cured goat and sheep cheeses

baked marinated swordfish with leek purée, ginger and lime

owner chef Victor Gamero

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Updated January 2023

Since opening in 2017 Francisco Palacios’ Bodega Palo Santo has become a clear neighbourhood favourite. The combination of fab food, friendly service and welcoming atmosphere can’t be beat.

It is a typical “bar de barrio”, with a pleasant ambiance and nice views of the Plaza Gavidia, including a side walk terrace that has expanded since they pedestrianised the square. The tapas and platos are generous, and good value for money. Favourites include their fritos, especially the pavía de bacalao and lagrimitas de presa, but the daily stews are also delicious. Also try the grilled meats, the beef meatballs with mushroom and foie sauce and lovely grilled chipirones with spicy pipirrana. Nice wine list, including some very good sherries. Check it out.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.30€ PER PERSON

Plaza de la Gavidia 5
Tel 854 700 892
Open 12.30 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight  Tuesday – Saturday
12.30 – 17.30 Sunday
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

verdiales

ensaladilla de pulpo

croquetas de jamón

scrambled egges with mushrooms, truffle oil and jamón

foie and mussels en escabeche on toast

tomato and melva salad

espinacas con garbanzos

grilled chipirones with pipirrana, squid ink sauce, smoked fish mayo

montadito with solomillo al whisky topped by jamón

chocos fritos

breaded bacalao

grilled king prawns over a base of quinoa and couscous,
with pimentón mayo and salsa verde

salt cod buñuelos

crispy crêpes filled with chipirones en su tinta

pavía de bacalao

gambas al ajillo

lagrimitas de presa Ibérica with mozárabe mayo

beef meatballs with mushroom and foie sauce

arroz with foie and carrillada

carrillada Ibérica

grilled presa Ibérica with jamón and potatoes

ice cream chocolates

cava and lemon sorbet

Team Palo Santo
Daniel, Antonio, Arturo, Pedro & owner Paco Palacios

Paco Palacios

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Updated April 2025

Note: In March 2025 Ana & Ángel announced that they would be shutting their doors and moving on to other adventures. I leave this here as a lovely memory of so many good (and delicious) times spent with these two over the last (almost) ten years. I wish them both the best of luck but know I’ll be seeing them around.

I first met Ana & Ángel at their tiny location in Calle Castelar back in 2016 and it was love at first visit. In 2018 they moved to their present spot, just a stone’s throw from the famous Metropol Parasol (aka The Mushrooms) and also just off buzzy plaza Cristo de Burgos. What looks like a small bar from the outside leads into a spacious dining area at the back, open to the kitchen, all cleverly designed by Lugadero Architects. There are also a few tables out on a pedestrian side walk terrace with a pretty view of San Pedro church.

Sherry wines continue to be the speciality, though there is a good selection of other Spanish wines too. I used to marvel at what Ángel could concoct from his tiny kitchen in the old place, so as expected, now that he has free reign over a proper kitchen the menu (which changes seasonally) continues evolving as he spreads his culinary wings. Meanwhile Ana has also extended her front of house territory with lovely well-trained staff. Dream Team.

Must tries: the oysters in manzanilla sauce, delicious tempura artichokes, delicate courgette carpaccio, fabulous whole fried fish, creamy and crispy cod fritters and whatever happens to be seasonal. The grilled bone marrow with steak tartare is outrageous, loved it paired with an old amontillado. Don’t feel shy about asking for wine pairing recommendations – whether you’re a sherry novice or a total nerd let Ana be  your guide. Also check out the daily specials. Fab desserts too.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.25€

Mercedes de Velilla 4
Tel 613 014 610
Open 13.30 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.00
Tuesday – Saturday
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

welcome!

exquisite sherry wines

there’s beer too!

crusty sourdough with anchovy and caper butter

assorted cheeses

creamy partridge paté with Sevilla orange marmalade

boquerones en vinagre with avocado cream, topped with chopped nuts

oysters in a buttery manzanilla sauce

mussels de la casa

croquetas de la casa – these ones are jamón

buñuelos de bacalao in egg yolk sauce

sea urchin with lime

sea urchin croquetas in panko

chef Ángel grating mojama (air cured tuna) onto our salad

courgette carpaccio with goat cheese foam, pistacios, pomogranate

braised leeks with mussel carbonara sauce and prawn carpaccio

grilled morcilla with slow poached egg yolk

ajoblanco with salmon tataky

ajoblanco with salmón and mango

payoyo cheese

that TOMATE filled with tuna paté

grilled asparagus with red pesto and alioli

tempura courgette flowers filled with bacalao brandade

seared mackerel with teriyaki and mangetout

artichokes in tempura with romesco sauce

confit artichokes with prawns and salsa marinera

warm scallop & prawn rocket salad with pomegranate seeds

presa Ibérica with Cafe de Paris herbed butter sauce

carrillada cannelloni with truffle sauce

braised leeks with prawns and mussels

whole fried sea bass

duck tataky with shaved frozen foie, rocket and mushroom salad

beef tenderloin topped with grilled foie and oloroso sauce

beef bone marrow topped with steak tartare

grilled jabalí (wild boar) with umami bomb bulgur wheat risotto

bbq pork ribs with roasted veg

three-chocolate mousse

crumble

peaches in wine, chantilly, mango and strawberry ice cream

sweet and salty cheesecake

strawberry cheesecake

lemon meringue pie

co-owners Ángel & Ana

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Updated March 2025

Tradevo Centro is run by chef Gonzalo Jurado and has become a neighbourhood favourite since it opened in 2016. The interior is a fairly minimalist “industrial” style with plenty of space, some nice faux-concertina wood panelling, and unusual bamboo acoustic absorbers. There’s also a big terrace outside in the buzzy Plaza de la Pescadería for watching the world go by.

The menu is market-based and kept short (with daily specials) and some items appear at the original location in Nervión, such as the Frito Triptych (chicken wingss, aubergines, boquerones – which can also be ordered separately) and the marinated sardines. Fish and seafood are a speciality here, but at times you can also find an entire crispy baked pig head.

Favourites are the avocado “canneloni” filled with prawns, red onion and tart apple (I could eat this every day) and the sea bass “encevichada” with guacamole on a crisp corn torilla. The whole fried fish (sold by weight) is perfect for those who want to eat every bit of the fish (there’s a lot of good eating in the head!).  Also love the whole fried squid and the fall-off-the-bone Ibérico pork ribs. Really, you can’t go wrong here. Some of the photos here are of daily specials, but don’t worry, if they’re not on the menu there will be something else equally delicious to try.

The original Tradevo Nervión has moved to larger premises – with a terrace! –  just around the corner from their original location.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.80€ PER PERSON

Cuesta del Rosario 15
Tel 854 807 424
Open 13.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – 23.30
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

fresh hot crusty bread and cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil

pork jowl scratchings

frito triptych: chocos, boquerones al limón, croquetas,
with lemon and chipotle mayos

always plate the fritos asap so they don’t go soggy in the paper cones

fried aubergine with salmorejo

garlicky coquinas (wedge clams)

mini brioche with crispy fried puntillitas and squid ink alioli

almadraba red tuna marinated in sesame dressing with basil & pistachio pesto,
pink tomato and strawberry gazpacho, cucumber and hierbabuena granita.

mini brioche with tempura prawns and sriracha mayo

red tuna tartare on crispy corn chips

bacalao con tomate croquetas

niguiri: fried sushi rice with salmon and yuzu

avocado “cannelloni” filled with prawns, minced red onion,
GS apple, served with lemon mayo

organic tomatoes with evoo and salt flakes

confit aubergine from organic garden, jus glaze with
a touch of honey and cumin, infusion of Parmigiano Regiano

marinated sardines on toast with roasted piquillo peppers

almadraba tuna tartare with avocado

crispy corn tortilla with corvina (sea bass) “encevichada” and guacamole

mini brioche with gamba roja and alioli au gratin

brioche with shaved roasted presa Ibérica,
radish, arugula, honey & mustard mayo

red tuna ceviche with yellow tomato salmorejo

seasonal artichoke three ways: fried, sautéed and with a cream from its stalks

flour tortillas topped with avocado, gambas en tempura,
jalapeño mayo and pico de gallo

marinated red almadraba tuna with parmesan gelée and basil creme

whole calamar de potero

fried whole rockfish

crispy baked whole pig’s head

tender oven-finished sous vide Ibérico rib with buttery mashed potatoes

Pluma Ibérica de Bellota (Gabriel Castaño, Cumbres Mayores)
marinated in achiote and char-grilled

brioche torrija with a milk, vanilla, amaretto, egg and rum sauce,
goat cheese ice cream

chocolate brownie with red fruit reduction and vanilla ice cream

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Updated March 2026

I almost don’t want to tell you about this place, but as it’s not in the centre of town it’s unlikely to be “spoiled by sudden popularity”. Also, it’s been here (well, there) for over 25 years, so it’s not exactly a hidden gem. You walk into La Doma and are immediately transported from the bleak grid of Los Bermejales apartment blocks into a small village tavern, which also just happens to have an exceptional bodega. The main D.O. types on offer here are: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Somontano, Extremadura, Cádiz, Cava and Sherry (the latter poured directly from the barrel).

And the food is as traditional and tasty as anything you could find in the best quality village bars of Cádiz. I particularly love the massive cheese and cured meat display that greets you when you first walk in. That alone makes you want to stay. Or in my case, move in. Be sure to try the grilled meats, the grilled asparagus and the fabulous tomato and tuna belly salad. Very much worth the bus ride (and that’s not something you’ll hear me say often).

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Polonia, 2
Los Bermejales
Tel 955 641 562
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Sunday
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

chilled manzanilla with olives

one of the regulars, helping himself to a top up

pan & picos – no charge!

Chema slicing jamón

tapita of jamón with fino

jamón Ibérico de Bellota

big, fat and juicy grilled setas

caña de lomo Ibérico

morcilla de Burgos with roasted piquillo peppers

tomato salad with tuna ventresca

solomillo al oregano

grilled asparagus

cochifritas

grilled abanico Ibérico and chips

lomo de orza with chips & fried eggs

grilled presa Ibérica

selection of cheeses (aka dessert)

Carlos, Demme, Ale & Eloy

still life

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Updated June 2017

La Chalá is fun eating, with its Latin-Iberian-Asian fusion menu, cheerful decor and attentive service, along with a spacious terrace (with actually more seating than inside the bar itself).

Be sure to try the “Arepa Franklin”, a delicious crunchy corn mollete filled with chicken and guacamole. We also love the GARLIC croquetas (where have these been all my life?) and the tacos de chicharrones. Nice wines by the glass at reasonable prices.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Plaza Puerta Real 6
Tel. 954 903 091
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 21.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
Sunday 12.00 – 16.30
Closed Monday
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

grilled Canario de Cabra smoked cheese with peanuts and cherry jam

arepita: corn roll filled with roast pork, red cabbage & chipotle alioli

GARLIC croquetas!

the Arepa Franklin – chicken with guacamole

sobrasada & cheese empanadillas with quince jam

serranito Andaluz with a twist

BBQ pork ribs in with “secret sauce”

albondiguitas

cuttlefish “meatballs” with squid ink sauce

thin strips of fried chocos with mojo verde

stir-fried presa Ibérica with veg and noodles

niguiri with smoked salmon, spinach, cheese, sweet mustard

tuna tataky with fried egg and potato straws

tacos de chicharrones

apolonio cheese with olive oil, cashews and grapes

chocolate brownie with ice cream

craft cider

Jefe Jota!

Team La Chalá: Jaime, Daniel, Pedro, Moises, Paulimar

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Updated January 2020

Founded in 2009, La Tienda de La Azotea continues to reinvent itself and each time it’s always a welcome and refreshing change. Located across the street from their main restaurant, La Tienda has a new look with an updated menu focusing more on tapas, along with a few larger plates on offer for their fresh fish and grilled meats.

The bar is cosy with large window that completely open up so you almost feel like you’re outdoors. There are tall tables as well as stools along the bar itself. Favourite dishes include the crispy pastry filled with cheese, leeks and prawns, anchovies on toast with sun dried tomato butter and the spicy red tuna tacos.

Make sure you check out the daily specials – some are pictured here so they may not be available when you visit, but there will be something equally delicious. And to start (or finish) there is an impressive list of national cheeses and charcuterie, as well as excellent desserts. Waiters are super helpful and happy to suggest wines to pair with your dishes. Great cocktail list too.

Conde de Barajas 12
Tel. 955 189 326
Open: 13.30 – 16.00 / 19.30 – 23.30
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

jamón Ibérico de bellota

salchichón Ibérico

cheese selection

classic gilda

gilda a la brasa

anchovies on toasted pan cristal with sundried tomato butter

marinated sardine on toast with smoked aubergine, basil and fried garlic

marinated potatoes with mackerel

crispy filo filled with prawns, leeks and cheese

croquetas de la casa

ensaladilla with smoked fish

marinated salmon tartare

papas aliña with chocos fritos

spicy tuna tacos in crispy corn shells with guacamole
tortillita de camarón churros

hake pavías with tartare sauce

tuna mechada with roasted peppers

marinated sardine, smoked aubergine with basil, crispy garlic

toasted pan cristal with tuna belly, roasted peppers and roasted garlic alioli

frito del día with oloroso mayo

potatoes with Carolina Reaper chili brava sauce and toasted almond alioli

artichokes with grilled foie gras and parmesan

clams in sherry sauce

piquillo peppers filled with lobster

carrillada with au gratin goat cheese and potato purée

hummus with chocos al ajillo and crispy garlic

steak tartare (frisona beef) with egg yolk gelée and caviar on brioche

whole fried pargo with oloroso mayo

chocolate coulante

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Updated December 2025

Al Aljibe was one of the first “market kitchen” restaurants in town, serving fresh seasonal food, with the menu changing every few months. It is housed in a beautifully restored old three-storey house in the Alameda and has a small front patio that extends into the square, two interior dining rooms and a rooftop terrace; all areas are intimate and comfortable.

Tapas and raciones are available throughout. Without a doubt the very best prawn burger I have ever had, and the risotto with rocket and provolone cheese is exquisite. Very attentive service and a good wine list.

Bread Charge: 0.80€ PER PERSON

Alameda de Hércules 76
Tel. 954 900 591
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

marinated sardines on toast with avodaco and tapenade

black pudding croquettes

gorgonzola and walnut croquetas

tender octopus over potatoes, dried tomatoes and miso mayonnaise

lagrimitas de presa with mojo picón and deluxe potatoes

bacalao frito with roasted veg and tartar sauce

arugula and provolone risotto

prawn burger with spicy rocoto sauce and fried quail egg

grilled chiperones with squid ink mayo

corn arepita with sous vide oxtail

tender carrillada (pig’s cheek) with potatoes

grilled secreto with caramalized onions and port sauce

rice with secreto Ibérico

I love these lamps

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Updated January 2021

This second location of the very popular Las Golondrinas opened in 2007, just around the corner from the original Triana bar, started by Paco Arcas Sr. These days sons Paco and Carlos and their children take care of both Triana bars plus their newest location in the centre of Sevilla.

This location has a more modern look to it and is also a bit bigger, with an upstairs mezzanine dining area serving raciones. There is also a section of tables downstairs for tapas, as well as a small sidewalk terrace, but for me the best location is sitting at the bar. I love the bustle and the service is fast and friendly.

The food here is just as fabulous as at the original Golondrinas. It’s simple, traditional fare and excellent value. Favourites include grilled chipirones (small squid), the grilled mushrooms with parsley alioli, and the simply sensational grilled punta de solomillo (Iberian pork sirloin). And yes, you really must try the radishes.

Bread Charge: 1.20€

c/ Pages del Corro 76
Tel 954 33 82 35
Open 12.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
€ € €
Vegetarian friendly

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

best damn radishes in town

mixed marinated veg and olives

salpicón de mariscos

caña de lomo Ibérica

grilled goat cheese

pork loin and blue cheese croquetas

chipis!

chipirones – small grilled squid with garlic and parsley

grilled mushrooms (champis) topped with parsley alioli

more champis!

pisto with bacalao

tomato salad

prawn skewere with garlicky salsa verde and potatoes

grilled razor clams (navajas)

confit bacalao with roasted piquillo peppers

carne mechada

pincho moruno de cordero

carrillada (pork cheek)

grilled punta de solomillo (pork tenderloin) on fresh bread

caballito – fried jamón on bread (with punta solomillo)

punta al galope (punta de solomillo with a caballito on top)

grilled duck breast

grilled presa Ibérica with potatoes, padrón peppers, parsley alioli

grilled presa Ibérica

grilled abanico Ibérico (pork)

the Las Golondrinas team (May 2015)
Vicente, Antonio, Paco (co-owner), Cesar, Ruben, Lourdes, Yuni, Yandi & Wendy

co-owner Carlos Arcas (centre) with barmen Carlos and Vicente

co-owner Paco Arcas out in his ‘hood (Triana)

downstairs tapas area

upstairs dining room

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updated December 2025