It’s often said that the best way to get to know a different culture is through its food, and Sevilla is no exception. The name of the game here is tapas – the small snacks eaten with a drink in bars and cafés. Although some good ones can be found in the more touristy districts, the best are usually those frequented by the locals, so don’t be afraid to do a bit of exploring. There are so many really good tapas bars, ranging from the traditional to the modern, that choosing the five best is a nigh-on impossible task, but these are five of my personal favourites, chosen from five different barrios…
Vineria San Telmo
From the mottos and quotations in several languages painted on the ceiling to an extensive and eclectic selection of wines by the glass, the Vineria San Telmo has been moulded by the philosophy of owner Juan Tarquini. The service here is probably the best of any tapas bar that I’ve been to, and the regularly updated menu is interesting and varied, with both traditional and innovative tapas and several tasty vegetarian options. Try the aubergine, goat cheese and tomato tower, the black pudding crepe in red pepper sauce, or the grilled tuna with tempura fried onions, and finish off with one of the homemade desserts on display in the cabinet just inside the door, which are just as delicious as they look. The busy outdoor terrace has a nice view down the Murillo gardens.
Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4 (Santa Cruz)
tel. 954 410 600
Eslava
Bar Eslava, just off the Plaza San Lorenzo, is definitely one of those bars that’s always packed with locals, and it’s not hard to understand why. The tapas are top notch and are very reasonably priced. Among my favourites are pork ribs in honey sauce and solomillo in dill sauce, but whatever you try you won’t be disappointed. It’s noisy and convivial, and quite small, so remember to get there early!
c/Eslava 5 (San Lorenzo)
tel. 954 906 568
La Azotea
La Azotea is a cosy and intimate tapas bar and restauraunt just five minutes’ walk from the main shopping streets, and thanks to owners Juan and Jeanine it has a deserved reputation for excellent food and service. There are two menus, one seasonal, and one that changes every week or even daily, depending on what looks good and fresh at the market. Like a lot of places, it’s tapas at the bar, and full or half raciones at the tables. Best to turn up early, as it gets very crowded, very quickly.
Jesús del Gran Poder, 31 (Centro)
tel 955 116 748
Bodeguita Romero
If you want the very best pringá montaditos (a small toasted bun filled with pork, chorizo and blood sausage) in town, Bodeguita Romero is the place to come. Also come here for the marinated potatoes, amazing stewed pig’s cheeks, spinach with garbanzos and Argentinian beef. Great atmosphere, traditional without being old-fashioned, and the staff are efficient and friendly. For me it’s become something of a home from home.
c/ Harinas 10 (Arenal)
tel. 954 229 556
La Primera del Puente
Directly across the river from the Torre del Oro is the delightful Primera del Puente. The decor of this definitely traditional bar celebrates Seville’s nautical past, the service is fast and friendly, and the tapas at the bar are excellent. The speciality is fish and seafood – try the pepito de gambas (a small toasted sandwich with langostines and alioli), grilled swordfish, battered prawns, chiperones or puntillitas and, well, just about anything else, all of it really fresh. La Primera also has a riverside terrace across the street (serves raciones only) with a great view of the city. Lovely and naturally cool in summer.
c/ Bétis 66 (Triana)
tel. 954 276 918
carrillada – aka stewed pig’s cheeks
