Past View Sevilla

Past View guides Lide & Paco
Past View guides Lide & Paco

You don’t have to spend much time wandering around Seville to appreciate how much the city owes to its long past, and to wonder what it actually looked like hundreds, or even thousands, of years ago. The other day my friend Peter (aka Seville Concierge) and I had the opportunity to take a glimpse back through the curtain of time, thanks to a new type of guided tour that uses a “virtual reality” headset to show how the city looked in the past.

Past View Sevilla has only been up and running for a couple of months, operating from its base next to the antiquarium in the Metropol Parasol where we were kitted out with goggles, earpieces and iPhone, and as far as I know it’s the only tour of its kind in the world, which makes you wonder why nobody thought of it before.

There are two tours available at the moment (morning and afternoon); a short tour which takes advantage of the walkways on top of the parasols for panoramas of the city back to Roman times, and a long tour (the one we did), which lasts about two hours, and takes you to some of Sevilla’s best known landmarks, like the Plaza San Francisco, the Torre del Oro, and the world heritage site of the Cathedral and Alcázar (without going inside), and although I know a fair bit about Sevilla I still learned some new things about the city’s history.

Past View price list and times
Past View price list and times

As well as being able to overlay the present day views with computer generated images of the past, we were also treated to three short videos featuring CGI backgrounds and real actors in period dress (like the rest of the presentation in either Spanish, English or French). So, in Plaza San Francisco we were accosted by friends of Miguel de Cervantes, recently arrested on charges of financial irregularities in the conduct of his work as a tax collector, and imprisoned behind the grim walls of the Royal Prison on the corner of the square. In the Plaza Triunfo it was the turn of the architect of the alminar (the minaret, now the Giralda Tower), and the changes that have happened in this area are fascinating, from the Caliph’s hidden passageway to the lost wall around the Grand Mosque. Finally, down on the docks, we met up with the servant of the great painter Murillo, searching among the ships for a consignment of lapis lazuli for his master, and a few of the shadier characters on the wharves, and given a warning about the looming walls of the Castle of San Jorgé, the headquarters of the Inquisition, at the end of the bridge of boats on the other bank of the river. The tour ended at the Torre del Oro.

Not surprisingly, given its novelty, there are still one or two rough edges to be smoothed out – the equipment felt a little clumsy to use at first, though it got easier as the tour went on, and Sevilla’s bright sunshine sometimes interfered with seeing the images clearly – but our English speaking guide Lide was patient and helpful throughout, as well as giving us plenty of information between stops.

Peter wearing his time travel kit
Peter wearing his time travel kit

It was well worth doing, and I’ll be back for the second tour sometime soon. For more information, including a preview video, you can go to Past View’s website

Travel & Cuisine Cooking Class

travel & cuisineI have long been looking for a Spanish cooking class in Sevilla that is offered in English because so many of my Sevilla Tapas Tour clients and visiting friends ask me about this. With friends I can oblige with a quick and casual “class” at home, but I really wanted to find a reputable place that could also show people a good time while learning about Spanish cuisine.

A couple of weeks ago I happened to mention this to my friend, tour guide Sam Lister @AndaluciaSam, and he told me about a local company called Travel & Cuisine @TravelCuisine1, run by Amelia Gómez and her husband, chef Jorge Rideo, along with their colleague Meli Rubio. And as my journo friend Fiona Watson @Seville_Writer also has clients who would be interested in cooking classes we arranged to do a class with T & C to see if we would be comfortable recommending them personally.

Well, we not only had a great time – and a great lunch – but we were also very happy with the quality of the class and Travel & Cuisine’s fabulous kitchen classroom. It was exactly what I had been looking for…

Continue reading “Travel & Cuisine Cooking Class”

Come y Comparte – Panrallao

panrallao
This week I was invited to Panrallao for the third Come y Comparte (Eat & Share) blogger’s lunch, a new initiative organised by journalist Ángel Fernández (@angelfdezmillan) and Cristóbal Bermúdez (@tapeoporsevilla), which brings together not only food bloggers but foodies from other walks of life, such as journalists, architects, artists and photographers. My lunch companioins on Wednesday were foodblogger María (@losblogsdemaria), private chef Lochy (@cocinoparati), and eco-journo José María Montero (@monteromonti).

I’d been to Panrallao before and they are listed on Sevilla Tapas, so I had an idea of what to expect and was looking forward to it. This is a small neighbourhood bar in Nervión run by two friends, which opened in March 2011. Miguel Bauzano runs the bar and dining area and chef Luis Bonet takes care of the kitchen. The decor is fresh and light, tall tables with stools in pale blue, white and natural wood. Handy antique hooks run along walls hung with tiny pictures in rustic frames, and the large windows and glass doors let in a lot of natural light. There’s also a good – and free – wifi connection.

For our “tasting menu” lunch we were served five tapas and a dessert to share between two. First up was one of the house specialities that I’d missed on my first visit –  breaded and fried aubergines served with cheese sauce, which were crispy-fried to perfection. Then it was on to the steak tartare – a generous portion that came with little homemade toasts. I’m not able to give a reliable opinion on this one since I can’t stand raw meat, but my “sharing companion” José María assured me it was very good.  Next up was the braised octopus in oyster sauce with “rin-ran”, which I’d quite enjoyed on my first visit. This time round the sauce was overpowering (perhaps because there was so little octopus in the dish?). What was there was very tasty, but there needed to be either more pulpo or less sauce to balance it out. Moving on to the bulltail lasagna, which came piping hot in cute mini casseroles. This had to be the biggest disappointment of all the dishes served. My companion and I struggled to find any hint of bulltail, cheese or bechamel sauce, but it was simply and utterly flavourless. Happily this was followed by what for me was the star dish of our tasting menu. A lovely sous vide bacalao served with migas and morcilla. On its own the bacalao was pleasant enough but teaming it with the other two ingredients was inspired. Our meal was accompanied by Cerro Encinas, a light red wine from Córdoba. Dessert was a pair of hot freshly baked chocolate cookies served with a cup of hot white chocolate.

Overall it was a pleasant experience and I look forward to taking part in future Come y Comparte events (the “sharing” bit means I write a blog post about it and also do some tweeting during our lunch). The plan is to mix it up so that every four weeks or so I’ll get to join up with a different group of local foodies. I think it’s a great way of meeting like-minded people over a shared passion. Thanks again for the invite Ángel and Cristóbal.

Centro del Mudéjar

mudejar centre
The Palace of the Marqueses of the Algaba is home to Sevilla’s newest cultural centre, this one dedicated to the legacy of the Mudéjars of the 13th – 16th centuries. The palace was first built in this period and is worth a visit itself. Although it has undergone reforms since then it still boasts a splendid example of a mudéjar-gothic grand doorway and tower, as well as a lush central courtyard garden enclosed by arched walkways.

The centre opened on January 12th with an exhibit bringing together 111 pieces from different museums.

Centro del Mudéjar
Plaza Calderón de la Barca
(just behind Feria Market)
8 am – 2 pm / 5 pm – 8 pm Monday to Friday
Saturdays 8 am – 2 pm. Closed Sunday.
Admission is free.