Corpus Cristi 2011

I think Corpus Cristi is my favourite public holiday in Sevilla, taking place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday (which is 60 days after Easter). There is a procession that starts around 8.30 am and finishes at noon. The night before the procession route is strewn with sprigs of rosemary and flower petals, balconies are draped with silk shawls and flowers, shopkeepers try to outdo each other with bread & wine window displays, and altars large and small are also put up. When I first came to Sevilla I was told by a friend that the best part of Corpus was to get up early and walk the procession route before things got started, when the morning air is still cool and fresh and there aren’t too many people around. I have done this many times and always love it. The smell of the rosemary, los balcones de seda…

[click on thumbnails to enlarge]

Graffiti Buster

What do you think of graffiti?

In general it just looks like vandalism to me. Okay, every once in a blue moon you get a Haring, Basquiat or Banksy, but you know… hardly ever. Mostly it’s crappy blobby spray-painted messes that only serve to make neighbourhoods look shabby.

I guess when a building is abandoned, like the one in the before & after pics on the left, and its windows have already been covered over with layers of tacky posters, it’s not any worse to have a couple of guys from a local gallery come and paint that over with their website logo. But many shop and restaurant owners would have to repaint their properties on a weekly basis just to have clean walls for a day or two.

So I was surprised to come across Alexandra Del Bene the other day while on my way home from a walk around the Alameda. She was busy with both spray cans and paint brushes painting the window protectors of the Santa Marta Bar (home of Sevilla’s largest flamenquín!), but it looked to me as if she were doing a job and not just a hit and run burst of “artistic expression”, so I stopped and asked if she’d been commissioned to paint the Santa Marta. Turns out that a lot of people have been commissioning her to paint their storefronts so that they won’t get vandalised by roving so-called “graffiti artists”, who curiously don’t vandalise Alexandra’s stuff. I guess it’s a sort of professional courtesy?

alex-001

[click to enlarge]

Alexandra showed me her business cards, which are decorated with pics of her various projects, and it turned out that one – a candy store – was just around the corner, so I also got a snap of that one. Anyhow, we had a nice long chat and it struck me how much more interesting life is when you stop and talk to people instead of just walking by.

Magnolia

[click to enlarge]

This is Sevilla’s most famous magnolia tree, and a magnificent one it is too. It’s just started blossoming and I couldn’t resist taking a few pics as I was walking by yesterday evening. If you want to see it for yourself it’s next to the Cathedral, and across from the Post Office, on Avenida de la Constitución.

Cathedral Rooftop Visit

These are a few photos I took whilst trying not to panic the other day when I went on that fabulous Cathedral rooftop tour. It truly was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences, though not the best place for an agoraphobic like me. But I was very pleased with myself that I managed to get through and even take that video I posted below. I admit that a few of these photos were actually taken with my eyes shut – especially those where I had to lean over the railing under the vaulted Cathedral ceiling. Later when I got back down I could not believe that I’d really been standing behind those huge wooden angels. In fact, I still can’t believe it. Go me!