Tapeo Extremo II


So this is what I did yesterday! Met up with some Twitter pals and fellow bloggers for a Tapeo Extremo, a term coined by travel writing legend and hardcore tapeo phenomenon Annie Bennett. Taking part were Fiona (Scribbler in Seville), Kate (Tales of a Brit Abroad), Kate’s friend Nicki, and Kim (Becoming Sevillana). I’ve known Fiona for quite awhile now, and Kate and Nicki had been on a tapas tour with me last summer, but it was the first time meeting Kim. Everyone knew that this was going to be pretty darn demanding and they had a lot to live up to if they were going to reach “extremo” standards. And well, the girls did good.

MY challenge was that nobody in the group ate meat, and one only tolerated fish in small amounts, so it had to be a pescatarian/vegetarian affair. Was I daunted? Hell no. Though it has to be said that the tour focused more on fish and seafood until the fourth and final tapas stop. But I’m getting ahead of myself…

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Andalucía Sabor

So this is what I’ll be doing over the next three days – attending the Andalucía Sabor Fine Food Exhibition – which kicks off this morning with a jamón slicing competition. Though in fact it began yesterday evening with an interesting and entertaining round-table discussion with three of Spain’s top chefs (Juan Mari Arzak, Carme Ruscalleda and Dani Garcia) about the Mediterranean diet and why eating locally and in season is so important.

Last year I had wangled an invitation to the Best New Chef competition so I guess I was still “on file” because of that, and so I was happy to receive an email a few weeks ago inviting me to attend this year’s Andalucía Sabor as Press or, more accurately, one of the bloggers that will be not only be allowed entrance (normal admission price is 75 euros) but also will have a blogger’s area with access to tables and plugs for laptops, etc. This would be an ideal moment to use the iPad I still don’t have. So I will just be armed with my iPhone as both laptops are too heavy to lug around all day, especially as I’m still having to wear the “faja” to hold my operation incision together.

And as if attending a three-day conference wasn’t enough I also have Sevilla Tapas Tours tonight and Thursday night, plus a presentation meeting with a prospective social media client tomorrow evening (another instance where an iPad would come in handy). Meanwhile I still have my daily work with my other clients to keep up with…

Speaking of which, best get that done while I down another cup of coffee, then I’ll have to hit the shower and get out of here. The conference centre is way the hell out near the airport, about half an hour on the bus, but at least there is a direct route there with the stop just five minutes from my house.  So gotta run – expect a full report once it’s all over!

Five Fab Tapas Bars in Sevilla

It’s often said that the best way to get to know a different culture is through its food, and Sevilla is no exception. The name of the game here is tapas – the small snacks eaten with a drink in bars and cafés. Although some good ones can be found in the more touristy districts, the best are usually those frequented by the locals, so don’t be afraid to do a bit of exploring. There are so many really good tapas bars, ranging from the traditional to the modern, that choosing the five best is a nigh-on impossible task, but these are five of my personal favourites, chosen from five different barrios…

Vineria San Telmo
From the mottos and quotations in several languages painted on the ceiling to an extensive and eclectic selection of wines by the glass, the Vineria San Telmo has been moulded by the philosophy of owner Juan Tarquini. The service here is probably the best of any tapas bar that I’ve been to, and the regularly updated menu is interesting and varied, with both traditional and innovative tapas and several tasty vegetarian options. Try the aubergine, goat cheese and tomato tower, the black pudding crepe in red pepper sauce, or the grilled tuna with tempura fried onions, and finish off with one of the homemade desserts on display in the cabinet just inside the door, which are just as delicious as they look. The busy outdoor terrace has a nice view down the Murillo gardens.

Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4 (Santa Cruz)
tel. 954 410 600

Eslava
Bar Eslava, just off the Plaza San Lorenzo, is definitely one of those bars that’s always packed with locals, and it’s not hard to understand why. The tapas are top notch and are very reasonably priced. Among my favourites are pork ribs in honey sauce and solomillo in dill sauce, but whatever you try you won’t be disappointed. It’s noisy and convivial, and quite small, so remember to get there early!

c/Eslava 5 (San Lorenzo)
tel. 954 906 568

La Azotea
La Azotea is a cosy and intimate tapas bar and restauraunt just five minutes’ walk from the main shopping streets, and thanks to owners Juan and Jeanine it has a deserved reputation for excellent food and service. There are two menus, one seasonal, and one that changes every week or even daily, depending on what looks good and fresh at the market. Like a lot of places, it’s tapas at the bar, and full or half raciones at the tables. Best to turn up early, as it gets very crowded, very quickly.

Jesús del Gran Poder, 31 (Centro)
tel 955 116 748

Bodeguita Romero
If you want the very best pringá montaditos (a small toasted bun filled with pork, chorizo and blood sausage) in town, Bodeguita Romero is the place to come. Also come here for the marinated potatoes, amazing stewed pig’s cheeks, spinach with garbanzos and Argentinian beef. Great atmosphere, traditional without being old-fashioned, and the staff are efficient and friendly. For me it’s become something of a home from home.

c/ Harinas 10 (Arenal)
tel. 954 229 556

La Primera del Puente
Directly across the river from the Torre del Oro is the delightful Primera del Puente. The decor of this definitely traditional bar celebrates Seville’s nautical past, the service is fast and friendly, and the tapas at the bar are excellent. The speciality is fish and seafood – try the pepito de gambas (a small toasted sandwich with langostines and alioli), grilled swordfish, battered prawns, chiperones or puntillitas and, well, just about anything else, all of it really fresh. La Primera also has a riverside terrace across the street (serves raciones only) with a great view of the city. Lovely and naturally cool in summer.

c/ Bétis 66 (Triana)
tel. 954 276 918

Bread Dough

UPDATED: December 27th 2013

This blog post was originally published back in April 2011, and I thought it was time for an update since the growing nefarious trend of Sevilla tapas bars charging for bread and “service” continues to grow.

It started off small a few years ago, say charging 50 cents for your typical dried-out pre-sliced vienna with a tiny package of picos. More often these days it’s become a 1 euro charge for a small basket of bread, though recently many bars have taken to charging PER PERSON for bread, which amounts to the same as a service charge.  The other day I was charged 5€ for a handful of olives, three slices of bread and a packet of picos because there were five people in my group. Scandalous.

What really irks is stopping off somewhere for a quick tapa and a beer and then finding out that I’ve been charged an extra 1.50€ for a basket of bread, especially when I hadn’t ordered bread and only nibbled on a couple of picos or used a small chunk of bread to soak up a bit of sauce, and then later I see this bread being “recycled”… ewwww.

Bar owners I’ve spoken to like to think that this is somehow a personal issue of mine and say they never hear complaints from anyone else. Well, I hear plenty of complaints from all kinds of people, including other more scrupulous bar owners. It’s not just the unpleasant surprise when you get your bill, this practice actually theatens the entire tradition of tapas bars. Imagine going on a tapeo with four or five friends, visiting several bars in an evening, something that is very common here, and at every stop you get charged an extra 4-6€ for bread or “service”. At the end of the night you’ve paid up to an extra 20-25€ or more… for nothing.

I also hear the arguments that “everyone else is doing it” and “food and drink costs a lot more in other countries”, the first argument being pathetic and the second? That’s kind of the point. Spain is not other countries. You can’t compare eating out in Sevilla to eating out in New York. At least not yet. Is that really what bar owners here want?

I have no problem when the menu clearly lists items like bread and olives and the price for each (usually 1€). I can decide if I really feel like spending extra for those items and if I order them then of course I am happy to pay. But when these items are brought to the table without being asked for, usually before you’ve had time to even look at the menu, then one naturally assumes that they are compliments of the house. In fact, bars are not allowed to charge for any items brought to the table that haven’t been ordered by the client. Likewise, they are not allowed to charge any sort of “service” charge. So if this happens to you at a bar then you are not obliged to pay.

What does this “service” charge even mean? Most visitors from the UK would assume this means it’s the tip for the waiters, which here it isn’t. The wait staff see none of this. So bars who charge for “service” are actually doing their staff a disservice as they will end up getting fewer tips. One restaurant owner recently told me that the “cubierto” charge was not only for bread but also because he uses cloth napkins which cost more than paper ones. I mean, what next? Extra charges for turning on the air-conditioning in summer? For putting toilet paper in the loos? Imagine how much extra bars could make by charging to use the toilets! Really the opportunities for getting something for nothing are endless. Seriously though, what happened to trying to offer something more or something different to attract more customers, being innovative, instead of suddenly charging for things that have always been included as part of regular service? Five years ago there were no bread or service charges in tapas bars. In my opinion people are getting too greedy and lazy.

I say that tapas bars and restaurants should factor in these fixed costs as they are clearly a part of their day-to-day operating expenses and thus should be easy to figure out. Tacking on extra charges like this just feels, well, tacky.  What do you think?

From Official Rules and Obligations for Bars, Restaurants and Cafeterias

“Los servicios no solicitados no se pueden cobrar. Tampoco se pueden cobrar conceptos como, por ejemplo, reservas, cubierto o mesa.”
“Neither unasked-for services nor such things as reservations, cover or table charges, can be charged for.”

Obligaciones de Bares, Restaurantes y Cafeterías

Sevilla en Boca de Todos

The second Sevilla en Boca de Todos started this week and runs until the 3rd of April. This is a contest in which tapas bars around Sevilla compete to make the best tapa in Sevilla for less than 2.50€. The winner is chosen by your votes.

Compared to last year’s event, there are almost twice as many tapas bars taking part. Here is the list of participants.

You can also check out this excellent map which not only shows the location of each bar but tells you (in most cases) which tapa is being featured.

Sevilla en Boca de Todos
9 March – 3 April 2011

See photos of tapas I’ve sampled below…
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