Pigging Out In Style At Restaurante Alcuza

One of the perks of having run the Sevilla Tapas blog for almost five years now is that I occasionally get invitations to interesting (usually food-related) events. Yesterday I was invited to Restaurante Alcuza by gastronomy photographer Manolo Manosalbas, to preview their “Iberian Pork Days” menu, which will be available to the public starting today until March 3rd. Everything from starters to dessert featured cerdo Ibérico de bellota, the best of the best, made from Sierra Mayor’s acorn-fed free-range Pata Negra pigs.

[click on image to enlarge]

I have to admit that I wasn’t crazy about the ice-cream, but everything else was sensational and was perfectly accompanied by wines from Bodegas Torres. After six tapas I was quite happily stuffed! I was also glad to have a chance to revisit Alcuza as I had first gone there almost two years ago but hadn’t been back. Question of too many tapas bars, too little time and €€€. But after what I sampled yesterday I will definitley be going again soon, and I recommend you drop in to try these special Iberian pork dishes created by chef Victor Gamero. The “serranito inverso” (centre photo) is the only one offered as a tapa – the rest are available as main dishes.

Restaurante Alcuza
Campamento 29
Tel. 954 542 477
Open: 13.00 – midnight
Kitchen closed 16.00 – 20.30
Closed all day Sunday and Monday evening

3rd Sevilla en Boca de Todos

The third edition of Sevilla en Boca de Todos (Seville on Everyone’s Lips) promises several new features such as a competition by area, the final where the tapas have to be prepared before a jury, and the first Ensaladilla Competition.

I’m assuming that, as with the two previous editions, the main competition will be to create the best tapa in Seville for less than 2.50€, but so far the neither the official website or Facebook page is giving out much information yet, not even the list of participants.

As I did last year, I will be posting photos of the tapas I manage to sample, though I think I’ll skip the ensaladilla competition…


[update: new dates announced for this competition]

Sevilla en Boca de Todos
2 May – 27 June 2012.

Sevilla Tapas Policy Change

For almost five years now, since first starting my Sevilla Tapas blog, my policy has always been to only put up tapas bars and restaurants that I would recommend to a friend. If I didn’t like a place it simply didn’t get included. I guess I just thought I wanted my tapas blog to have a positive and helpful feel to it. A couple of years ago I did put up a very scathing review of a place that had treated my friend and me horrendously, but I don’t know, it seemed to throw a shadow on what I like to think of as an upbeat and friendly site and I removed it.

But lately I’ve been wondering if this is actually the best policy, especially as fewer of the places I visit these days end up on the blog because I know I wouldn’t ever recommend them to a friend. Was I getting jaded, I asked myself. Or just more experienced and discerning? Then today happened.

I met my friend Pablo for lunch at a place that had not only been recommended to me many times over the years, but people couldn’t actually believe that I had never been there, as it was apparently such a popular location. So as I had a meeting right around the corner from this place that finished at lunchtime, that’s where we went. And well. I should have known upon entering that it was going to be dire, but again, you never know. Sometimes the shabbiest looking places serve up the tastiest tapas (though to be honest, this almost never happens in the city) and this place was certainly shabby. It had the look of someplace that had had its day about fifteen years ago and hadn’t bothered to paint or replace the tacky furniture. It wasn’t DIRTY exactly, but it had an unclean feel to it. So why didn’t we just get up and leave? Well, because I had to find out if all those who had praised this joint were right. They weren’t.

The food was not only pedestrian in the extreme, but most of it seemed past its time, hard and dry and tired looking. And the service was haphazard and impersonal. Even if the tapas had been cheap (they weren’t at 3-4 euros each) it wouldn’t have made up for such a dismal meal. Pablo and I were left feeling upleasantly full and unsatisfied and, well, a bit annoyed. And I felt ripped off thinking I’d wasted my time and money at a crappy tapas bar that I wouldn’t even be able to put in my tapas blog.

After lunch we ran into a friend of ours, Markus, and told him about our experience. His office is nearby and he said he never eats at that place. But both Pablo and Markus told me that it would actually give my tapas blog more credibility if there were some negative, or at least not glowing, reviews. So they convinced me to change my policy a bit, if only as a public service. Because I truly pity anyone who might end up eating where we were today, especially when there are so many other terrific places nearby.

I’m actually quite excited about this new policy. It means I can include everywhere I eat and not just the places I like. And by doing so perhaps I can help others avoid a nasty or even just mediocre meal.

5 Best Carrillada Ibérica in Sevilla

carrillada – aka stewed pig’s cheeks

Carrillada is one of those very traditional dishes that can range from rustic homestyle comfort food to exquisite gourmet delicacy. The pig’s cheeks are slow-cooked on low heat for several hours (chef Claudia at the now-defunct Bar Jano used to cook hers for nine hours!) and the result is tender, juicy, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness. The best of the best is made from the acorn-fed Iberian black foot pig, and five of the best that keep me going back for more can be found at these restaurants:

La Azotea, Bodeguita Romero, Eslava, Las Golondrinas and Albarama.

Or you could try making them yourself.

Where is your favourite spot for carrillada ibérica?

Gastrosol Preview


When I first heard a few months ago that the bid for the new restaurant on top of the Metropol Parasol (aka Las Setas) had been won by Antonio Palomino, owner of Restaurante Puerto Delicia, my first thought was that it was going to end up being some sort of super-posh and inaccessible place like the Abades Group restaurant on the riverbank side of calle Bétis. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Gastrosol opened its doors yesterday on one of the busiest holidays of the year, though still only particially operational, and had over 4,000 visitors. Today I went up to have a look myself.

The Gastrosol space is enormous, with 55 metres of bar and 1100 metres of floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city. But what is even more impressive is the concept. The bar is at the hub of the space and is divided into six sections, each one offering something different: a cocktail and coffee bar, a charcuterie counter, a fried-fish shop and three different tapas bars, with communal seating inside and outside, making it rather like a gourmet  food court. There are also two large salon areas that will mostly be used for private events or, if the bar seating area gets too crowded, as an overflow section.

  • Update:  The cocktail/coffee bar, fried fish shop and gastrobar Las Delicias are being run by Antonio Palomino and his team. Gastrobar Seis Sentidos will be run by Flores brothers Federico, José Vicente & Alvaro and Julio Fernández from Abantal. The third tapas bar will be on a six-month rotation so there will always be something new, and the bid for the charcuterie counter is still being negotiated.

It’s still early days and only one tapas bar (Las Delicias) and the cocktail/coffee bar are open at the moment. By next week more of the places should be up and running. I think it’s a great idea, and what could be more accessible? You can stop in for a bit of fried fish, then move on for some charcuterie, then a tapa or two, and finish with a cocktail or a coffee, all the while moving about on the top of the Setas and enjoying some of the best views in town. So far prices look reasonable too! And I’m told that management is working out a system so that people who aren’t residents of Sevilla, and have to pay to go up, will be reimbursed, probably by getting their first drink on the house.

Gastrosol is open seven days a week from noon to midnight.

Will keep you updated. Watch for a write-up on Sevilla Tapas soon!