Butting Out

Today marks the beginning of the new smoking ban in Spain, which effects all “enclosed spaces of public or collective use”. There are many opinions surrounding the new anti-smoking law, both positive and negative, including worries about the possible adverse effects on bars and cafés, as stated here by Graham Hunt. And many people think that Spaniards will just ignore the law and continue to allow smoking in their establishments.

I’m not so sure. First of all because bar owners would face being fined, but also because when the first stage of the anti-smoking law came into effect in 2006 people adjusted to it surprisingly well. Used to be I’d walk into the bank or post office and workers would be sitting there with heaping ashtrays on their desks, and almost every tapas bar was so full of smoke that it would seriously interfere with enjoying a meal. These days – at least in Seville – I seldom notice smoke in tapas bars and restaurants, so it’s hard to imagine that taking this next step is going to prove too difficult for smokers to handle, or that it would seriously affect their social habits. Also, there have been a lot of comments by Spanish people on places like Twitter saying how great it’s going to be not to have to put up with second-hand smoke anymore, so there is clearly some positive opinion about the anti-smoking law.

What do you think? How will the new law effect you as a smoker, a business owner or a client? Are you for it, against it, indifferent?

Castillo de San Jorge

Visitors to Sevilla are usually surprised and even amused to come across “inquisition alley” in Triana for the first time, and will often make the usual Monty Python Spanish Inquisition jokes, but of course the sobering reality is far from anything amusing.

For almost three hundred years (1481 – 1785) the Castillo de San Jorge was the Seat of the Holy Inquisition in Spain where thousands of men and women from all walks of life were imprisoned and tortured. Its sinister image became the iconic symbol for the Inquisition throughout Europe.

In 1990 the city of Sevilla began work on renovating the old Triana Market and unearthed the remains of the castle. Today it stands as a monument to tolerance and calls itself a place for reflection, inviting us to remember the past in order to prevent such totalitarian abuse of power happening again.

The exhibit is distributed over two floors and includes an interactive room containing three spaces (Value Judgements, The Abuse of Power, The Victims), artefacts from the castle, archaeological remains and historical data.

There is also a Gallery of Key Figures that pays homage to some of the most representative figures of the Inquisition.

I finally stopped by for a visit yesterday (it opened this past spring) and found it very well done and even inspirational. The info pamphlet says that “You are the main protagonist of this story. This is your history” and goes on to explain that the essential aim of the exhibit is to transfer the lessons learnt from these historical facts to the motivations and concerns of our present day society. All the written information is displayed in both Spanish and English and admission is free.

[click to enlarge collage]

Castillo de San Jorge

Monday-Friday 10.00-14.00h / 17.00-19.00h
Saturday, Sunday & holidays 10.00-15.00h
Castillo de San Jorge Blog

Plaza de España


After YEARS of restoration work the beautiful Plaza de España reopened this past weekend. I waited until Monday to check it out and tried to recreate the first time I ever saw the plaza, back in September 1993. I’d seen it on my map so I knew it was a semi-circular building and I’d read that it was designed by Anibal Gonzalez and built as the Spanish pavillion for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, but nothing had prepared me for what I saw when I turned the corner of the North Tower…
Continue reading “Plaza de España”

Cata de Jerez

[click to enlarge]

Last night I went to a fabulous sherry tasting (cata de jerez) at La Azotea Vinos & Más, which was both fun and educational. I’ve never known much about Spanish sherries and so it was great that José Argudo from the prestigious Bodegas Gonzalez Byass took us through the whole sherry-making process step by step while we sampled ten – yes that’s right, ten!! – different sherries. From the palest driest mosto to sweet musky fino/oloroso blends, we sipped our way through them all, even sampling some lovely 30-year-old wines. My favourite (after the Tio Pepe fino) was the Apóstoles, nicknamed the “Doñana Lynx” of sherries because it is so special and rare.

As always, the cata was very well organised by Jeanine and Juan from La Azotea restaurant (just across the street from the shop), with Juan bringing over a jamón towards the end of the cata, which went down very well with the wine.

Wine List:

  • Mosto
  • Sobretablas Fino
  • Sobretablas Oloroso
  • Tio Pepe
  • Viña AB
  • Alfonso
  • Almontillado del Duque
  • Apóstoles
  • Matusalem
  • Noe

Be sure to stop by and ask Jeanine about their small informal tastings, which are available in the shop upon request, as well as more information about the monthly catas and also their special wine tasting courses.

La Azotea Vinos & Más
Jesús del Gran Poder, 44
Tel. 955 11 67 48
Open: 12.00 – 15.00 / 20.00 – 23.00
Closed Sunday & Monday

XVI bienal de flamenco

The world-renowned Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla has taken place every two years since it was first established in 1980 and features performances from the world’s most respected baile (dance), toque (guitar) and cante (singing) artists, taking place in various venues around Sevilla. I’m still hoping to get to the closing concert if anyone has a spare ticket….

XVI Bienal de Flamenco
15th September – 9th October 2010

Programme 2010