Occupy Plaza Pescadería

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This morning on the way to the gym I passed through Plaza de la Pescadería and saw this colourful display – and so of course I had to find out what was going on!

Turns out it’s a one-day event being put on by Seville University architecture students, protesting the way that the four bars and restaurants in the square are taking up the public space there by continually extending their terrazas.

They are using yarn to represent “home” and homeowners occupying the public benches and the spaces between them. The students were still hard at work when I left them, so if you’re in the neighbourhood be sure to check it out.

Plaza de la Pescadería

3rd Sevilla en Boca de Todos

The third edition of Sevilla en Boca de Todos (Seville on Everyone’s Lips) promises several new features such as a competition by area, the final where the tapas have to be prepared before a jury, and the first Ensaladilla Competition.

I’m assuming that, as with the two previous editions, the main competition will be to create the best tapa in Seville for less than 2.50€, but so far the neither the official website or Facebook page is giving out much information yet, not even the list of participants.

As I did last year, I will be posting photos of the tapas I manage to sample, though I think I’ll skip the ensaladilla competition…


[update: new dates announced for this competition]

Sevilla en Boca de Todos
2 May – 27 June 2012.

Sevilla Tapas Policy Change

For almost five years now, since first starting my Sevilla Tapas blog, my policy has always been to only put up tapas bars and restaurants that I would recommend to a friend. If I didn’t like a place it simply didn’t get included. I guess I just thought I wanted my tapas blog to have a positive and helpful feel to it. A couple of years ago I did put up a very scathing review of a place that had treated my friend and me horrendously, but I don’t know, it seemed to throw a shadow on what I like to think of as an upbeat and friendly site and I removed it.

But lately I’ve been wondering if this is actually the best policy, especially as fewer of the places I visit these days end up on the blog because I know I wouldn’t ever recommend them to a friend. Was I getting jaded, I asked myself. Or just more experienced and discerning? Then today happened.

I met my friend Pablo for lunch at a place that had not only been recommended to me many times over the years, but people couldn’t actually believe that I had never been there, as it was apparently such a popular location. So as I had a meeting right around the corner from this place that finished at lunchtime, that’s where we went. And well. I should have known upon entering that it was going to be dire, but again, you never know. Sometimes the shabbiest looking places serve up the tastiest tapas (though to be honest, this almost never happens in the city) and this place was certainly shabby. It had the look of someplace that had had its day about fifteen years ago and hadn’t bothered to paint or replace the tacky furniture. It wasn’t DIRTY exactly, but it had an unclean feel to it. So why didn’t we just get up and leave? Well, because I had to find out if all those who had praised this joint were right. They weren’t.

The food was not only pedestrian in the extreme, but most of it seemed past its time, hard and dry and tired looking. And the service was haphazard and impersonal. Even if the tapas had been cheap (they weren’t at 3-4 euros each) it wouldn’t have made up for such a dismal meal. Pablo and I were left feeling upleasantly full and unsatisfied and, well, a bit annoyed. And I felt ripped off thinking I’d wasted my time and money at a crappy tapas bar that I wouldn’t even be able to put in my tapas blog.

After lunch we ran into a friend of ours, Markus, and told him about our experience. His office is nearby and he said he never eats at that place. But both Pablo and Markus told me that it would actually give my tapas blog more credibility if there were some negative, or at least not glowing, reviews. So they convinced me to change my policy a bit, if only as a public service. Because I truly pity anyone who might end up eating where we were today, especially when there are so many other terrific places nearby.

I’m actually quite excited about this new policy. It means I can include everywhere I eat and not just the places I like. And by doing so perhaps I can help others avoid a nasty or even just mediocre meal.

Internations Seville

Last night I went to my second Internations monthly meet up in Sevilla. They started having them here last October. Basically it’s a way for expats (really dislike that term – but what else could we use?) to meet and share their experiences of living in a foreign land, though there are also a few Spaniards in the group.

Last night’s meet up started off early (7pm) at the Horno San Buenaventura, the idea being that people could have a coffee and snack before heading out later for a tapa. Around 9 o’clock we headed over to the Plaza Alfalfa for tapitas and more chatting at La Bodega.

I actually preferred the second location because it was easier to mingle.

But as this is still a new thing here, our fearless leader Hugo (who organises the events) has been trying out different locations, times and days of the week, which I think is great. Because you’re never going to be able to please everyone. And it’s good to mix it up a bit.

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I’m not usually much of a group person, though I was a member of the AWC for awhile. This group seems a bit more lively than the AWC. First of all, it’s not just women and there are no expensive sit-down lunches to pay for. Also the Internations meets seem more casual and fun. So we shall see. I think it’s a great way to meet new people.

If you’d like to come to the next meet up in February then go to the Internations website and request an invitation. Or get in touch with me by email and I’ll send you an invitation. The more the merrier!

5 Best Carrillada Ibérica in Sevilla

carrillada – aka stewed pig’s cheeks

Carrillada is one of those very traditional dishes that can range from rustic homestyle comfort food to exquisite gourmet delicacy. The pig’s cheeks are slow-cooked on low heat for several hours (chef Claudia at the now-defunct Bar Jano used to cook hers for nine hours!) and the result is tender, juicy, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness. The best of the best is made from the acorn-fed Iberian black foot pig, and five of the best that keep me going back for more can be found at these restaurants:

La Azotea, Bodeguita Romero, Eslava, Las Golondrinas and Albarama.

Or you could try making them yourself.

Where is your favourite spot for carrillada ibérica?