The Christmas season officially began here on December 8th, El Día de la Inmaculada, which celebrates the immaculate conception. In Seville this event kicks off around midnight on the 7th in the Plaza del Triunfo, between the Cathedral and the Alcazar Palace, where there is a competition every year among the Tunas, groups of university student minstrels dressed in 17th century costume, who sing the praises of the Virgin in front of her statue until dawn. There are celebrations all day at the cathedral, including the dance of Los Seises”, and around 8pm a procession arrives from one of the city’s churches.
December 8th is also when Seville’s Christmas lights are traditionally turned on, to be switched off after Los Reyes Magos (the Magic Kings) on January 6th, but over the past few years this has been changing somewhat. Last year the lights came on at the end of November and this year I heard they were being turned off for nine days (9-17 December) in a fit of penny-pinching to save money on the city’s electricity bill, but happily this hasn’t happened.
The Christmas Craft Market in the Plaza Nueva began last Thursday and lasts until the day before Reyes. It’s a great place to buy a few more unusual or individual gifts and in the evenings, with the trees wrapped in christmas lights, it feels quite festive. You can do your shopping and then stop into one of the many tapas bars in the area to warm up and have a drink and a snack.
Belens, or nativity scenes, are a big deal in Seville, and every year there are a quite a number of public belens, often quite elaborate, sponsored by various businesses and organisations around the city. There is also a belen market in the Plaza San Francisco where you can buy everything you need to make one of your own. Belens come in all shapes and sizes, some are animated with moving figures and running streams, and others are made from chocolate, the largest to date weighing in at 1500 kilos.
Like everywhere else, food markets are filled with seasonal products such as pheasants, rabbits and whole hams, as well as chocolates and the traditional turrones, and at the Corte Inglés and gourmet specialty shops you can find a range of Christmas hampers. From the beginning of December until Reyes store hours are extended to include Sunday shopping.
Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) is when families get together for a big meal, and perhaps one gift is opened. Most bars and restaurants close around 5pm to give their employees time off to spend with their families, so if you are visiting make sure you call ahead before going out to eat.
Likewise on New Year’s Eve (Noche Vieja), another time for traditional family meals at home, although you can usually book a table at a hotel restaurant. The tradition here is that you have to eat 12 grapes while the bells are tolling midnight, and if you can eat them all before the bells stop it ensures good luck in the year to come. To help luck along the grapes are usually peeled and seeded beforehand, and you can even buy small tins of 12 prepared grapes, though some people consider it cheating. The public New year’s Eve celebration takes place in the Plaza Nueva, with the clubs and discos opening around 1am as the crowd disperses, and staying open until dawn. Stopping for churros and chocolate on your way home in the early morning is both traditional, and a good hangover preventative.
Reyes Magos, the Magic Kings (or Epiphany), is traditionally the day for the children. On January 5th there is a procession during which the three kings and their helpers toss sweets to the kids who chase after them, and it can get really sticky underfoot. The following day is the traditional day for the giving of gifts, and their is another family dinner featuring roscónes, which are a bit like giant doughnuts studded with candied fruit and filled with cream. Reyes marks the end of the holiday season, as after this the kids go back to school.
And on January 7th (my birthday!) the winter sales begin.
Felices Fiestas!
