Category: barrios

Occupy Plaza Pescadería

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This morning on the way to the gym I passed through Plaza de la Pescadería and saw this colourful display – and so of course I had to find out what was going on!

Turns out it’s a one-day event being put on by Seville University architecture students, protesting the way that the four bars and restaurants in the square are taking up the public space there by continually extending their terrazas.

They are using yarn to represent “home” and homeowners occupying the public benches and the spaces between them. The students were still hard at work when I left them, so if you’re in the neighbourhood be sure to check it out.

Plaza de la Pescadería

veoapartment

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As you can imagine, I’m often asked to recommend places to stay in Sevilla. Awhile ago I came up with my top 30 hotel picks, but the truth is that when I’m staying somewhere for more than a couple of days I always prefer to rent a holiday apartment. I like having the extra space and a kitchen to make coffee and snacks in. I seldom cook full meals on holiday but it’s nice (and cheaper) to have the option of not eating every meal at a restaurant. Plus most apartments come with washing machines, which is great for longer stays. But mostly I just like being able to “come home” from being out and about and having a comfy livingroom to relax in, rather than having to sit on my hotel bed.

I’ve known the gang at Sevilla 5 for years and can vouch that their apartment selection, and especially their personal service, makes them one of the best in town. I also love their newer “sister site” veoapartment. I mean, just check it out. The apartments are gorgeous, and they are all in the best neighbourhoods (barrios). But what is really impressive is how they have gone to the trouble of not only photographing the apartments, but they’ve also made stylish videos that give you a real feel of the places (much better than those dizzy-making 360º photos). They’ve also made some terrific videos of Sevilla so if you are interested in, say, staying in the Arenal, then you can take a visual stroll through the barrio before deciding whether or not it’s for you. And if you have any questions then the team is on hand to answer them in about a gazillion languages. Which is perhaps the thing I like best about this group – that they are from everywhere and I think this gives them a better insight into what people from everywhere are looking for when they come to Sevilla.

veoapartment.com

5 Best Carrillada Ibérica in Sevilla

azahar

carrillada – aka stewed pig’s cheeks

Carrillada is one of those very traditional dishes that can range from rustic homestyle comfort food to exquisite gourmet delicacy. The pig’s cheeks are slow-cooked on low heat for several hours (chef Claudia at the now-defunct Bar Jano used to cook hers for nine hours!) and the result is tender, juicy, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness. The best of the best is made from the acorn-fed Iberian black foot pig, and five of the best that keep me going back for more can be found at these restaurants:

La Azotea, Bodeguita Romero, Eslava, Las Golondrinas and Albarama.

Or you could try making them yourself.

Where is your favourite spot for carrillada ibérica?

Five Fab Tapas Bars in Sevilla

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It’s often said that the best way to get to know a different culture is through its food, and Sevilla is no exception. The name of the game here is tapas – the small snacks eaten with a drink in bars and cafés. Although some good ones can be found in the more touristy districts, the best are usually those frequented by the locals, so don’t be afraid to do a bit of exploring. There are so many really good tapas bars, ranging from the traditional to the modern, that choosing the five best is a nigh-on impossible task, but these are five of my personal favourites, chosen from five different barrios…

Vineria San Telmo
From the mottos and quotations in several languages painted on the ceiling to an extensive and eclectic selection of wines by the glass, the Vineria San Telmo has been moulded by the philosophy of owner Juan Tarquini. The service here is probably the best of any tapas bar that I’ve been to, and the regularly updated menu is interesting and varied, with both traditional and innovative tapas and several tasty vegetarian options. Try the aubergine, goat cheese and tomato tower, the black pudding crepe in red pepper sauce, or the grilled tuna with tempura fried onions, and finish off with one of the homemade desserts on display in the cabinet just inside the door, which are just as delicious as they look. The busy outdoor terrace has a nice view down the Murillo gardens.

Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4 (Santa Cruz)
tel. 954 410 600

Eslava
Bar Eslava, just off the Plaza San Lorenzo, is definitely one of those bars that’s always packed with locals, and it’s not hard to understand why. The tapas are top notch and are very reasonably priced. Among my favourites are pork ribs in honey sauce and solomillo in dill sauce, but whatever you try you won’t be disappointed. It’s noisy and convivial, and quite small, so remember to get there early!

c/Eslava 5 (San Lorenzo)
tel. 954 906 568

La Azotea
La Azotea is a cosy and intimate tapas bar and restauraunt just five minutes’ walk from the main shopping streets, and thanks to owners Juan and Jeanine it has a deserved reputation for excellent food and service. There are two menus, one seasonal, and one that changes every week or even daily, depending on what looks good and fresh at the market. Like a lot of places, it’s tapas at the bar, and full or half raciones at the tables. Best to turn up early, as it gets very crowded, very quickly.

Jesús del Gran Poder, 31 (Centro)
tel 955 116 748

Bodeguita Romero
If you want the very best pringá montaditos (a small toasted bun filled with pork, chorizo and blood sausage) in town, Bodeguita Romero is the place to come. Also come here for the marinated potatoes, amazing stewed pig’s cheeks, spinach with garbanzos and Argentinian beef. Great atmosphere, traditional without being old-fashioned, and the staff are efficient and friendly. For me it’s become something of a home from home.

c/ Harinas 10 (Arenal)
tel. 954 229 556

La Primera del Puente
Directly across the river from the Torre del Oro is the delightful Primera del Puente. The decor of this definitely traditional bar celebrates Seville’s nautical past, the service is fast and friendly, and the tapas at the bar are excellent. The speciality is fish and seafood – try the pepito de gambas (a small toasted sandwich with langostines and alioli), grilled swordfish, battered prawns, chiperones or puntillitas and, well, just about anything else, all of it really fresh. La Primera also has a riverside terrace across the street (serves raciones only) with a great view of the city. Lovely and naturally cool in summer.

c/ Bétis 66 (Triana)
tel. 954 276 918

Paper Birds

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This evening I was walking home after a bit of grocery shopping and was suddenly delighted by the sight of hundreds of multi-coloured paper birds in the trees of Plaza Encarnación. If I hadn’t had my hands full I would have taken out Niko; instead I just snapped a few quick shots with my iPhone. If you look closely you can see a bit of a “Seta” in the background of the lower right hand pic. Anyhow, I thought they might make you smile too.