I first met Javier Guardiola when he was working at La Azotea and years later at his own Bar Tardón. This is his newest project, located over in a narrow shady side street just off López de Gomara in Triana. The cosy interior has a small dining area with both high and low tables and large windows letting in lots of natural light. Outside in the orange-tree filled square is an ample terrace.

The menu features Andalusian cuisine with a combination of tapas and large plates (for groups of 6 or more, only plates are available). On this first visit we enjoyed everything, especially the buñuelos de gambas blancas and grilled swordfish (which is not particularly photogenic, but tastes fab). The grilled meats (presa Ibérica and Argentinian beef) come with a hot stone for finishing the meat at your table. The carefully chosen wine list is a trademark of Javier’s and is constantly being updated. Friendly service and a nice neighbourhood ambiance.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.90€  PER PERSON

Gijón 1
Tel. 603 38 98 74
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Wednesday – Sunday
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

gildas

croquetas de jamón

lamb ravioli with parmesan sauce

crispy pastry pouch filled with cream cheese, leeks and prawns

buñuelos de gambas blancas

swordfish with parmentier and mojo picón verde

presa Ibérica with Padrón peppers and potatoes

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Earlier this year Bar Oliva reopened after rebuilding their entire location, destroyed in a fire in 2019. With the new look came a new name – Casa Oliva – signalling the next chapter in the family’s history, which began in 1993. Still a classic tapas bar but in a more modern setting you’ll find tables and bar seating inside as well as a side walk terrace.

Mónica and Rocío Oliva continue to run the kitchen preparing the traditional food they are known for: kidneys in sherry, garlic prawns, pavía, menudo, while José and Rocío’s children take care of the front of house and management. We’ve enjoyed everything we tried and are looking forward to going back.

Open for breakfast too!

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

San Jacinto 73
Tel 607 22 71 24
Open 8.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Friday
9.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight Saturday
9.00 – 17.00 Sunday
€ € €

Food 7| Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

chocos fritos

grilled swordfish

pavía de bacalao

solomillo al whisky

gambas rebozadas

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Updated December 2023

Founded in 1993 by Juan Carlos Gutiérrez, Bar Juan Carlos is now run by his daughter Inma and her husband Alejandro. Specialising in cheeses and craft beers this cosy Triana bar has about half a dozen tables inside, a few seats at the bar, and tall tables out on the side walk.

Over 100 cheeses are available, both national and imported, as well as an excellent selection of charcuterie, which can be ordered as tapas or – recommended – put together as sharing boards. There are also various pâtés and montaditos, all of which can be expertly paired with the wide selection of craft and other beer on hand. There are over 75 types of both national and international beer, 9 on tap with one rotating keg. There’s also a short wine list, but this is really a beer (and cheese) lover’s paradise. Service is friendly and helpful (great music too).

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ PER PERSON

Febo 6
Tel.  (no bookings)
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
20.00 – midnight Monday
Closed Sunday
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 5 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

sudao extrameño, manchego en manteca
payoyo PX, monje picón asturiano

butifarra and carne mechá

cabrales blue cheese, award-winning olavidia from Jaén,
manchego en romero, and I forget the last one sorry!

(loved these glasses)

co-owner Inma Gutiérrez

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Founded in 1972 by the father of previous owners Manuel and Carmen, who retired in 2022, Casa Diego has been taken over by the Arcas brothers (Paco, Carlos & Pepe) of Las Golondrinas fame, and rechristened Antigua Casa Diego. There has been an extensive renovation combining modern touches, including a brand new kitchen, with some of the original tile work and the famous Santa Ana Church ceramic beer pump. Inside is a small bar with high stools and a few low tables near the door, leading out onto a comfortable sidewalk terrace. One of the most attractive new features are the large “accordian” windows that open onto the street, giving the entire bar an open and airy feel.

It’s a mainly traditional menu that has maintained a few of the original bar’s favourite tapas such as the fried chicken, carne mechada and hearty stews. New on offer are grilled fish and meat dishes. We’ve enjoyed everything we tried here over a couple of visits. The octopus ensaladilla with smoked paprika mayo might be my favourite in the city, packed with flavour. Grilled castañitas are sweet and tender, the bacalao and leek croquetas have a perfect crunchy exterior and are creamy and delicious inside, and the famous fried chicken is tender and tasty. There’s quite a good wine list and service is friendly, as befits a typical Triana neighbourhood bar.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Alfarería 5
Tel (no bookings)
Open 8.00 – midnight Monday – Sunday
Breakfast 8.00 – 12.00
Kitchen closed 16.00 – 20.00
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

jamón Ibérico de bellota

ensaladilla de pulpo with smoked paprika mayo

tomatoes with melva

carne mechada

bacalao and leek croquetas

boquerones al limón

grilled castañitas with potatoes and salsa verde

ortiguillas (sea anemone)

arroz con mariscos (seafood rice)

fried chicken

sangre encebollada

secreto Ibérico with mojo picón

braised cola de toro (oxtail)

breakfast menu

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Updated November 2024

Paco Gallardo and Eva Ávila (previously of Tracatapas) have joined forces with chef Fran Casasola and, with their son Álvaro García as front of house manager, have created an attractive space on the edge of Triana serving fresh and simple dishes, often using seasonal products. Inside there is a bar with a few tall tables and the large dining area is separated into different sections (including an indoor-outdoor patio) giving it a cosy feel. Outside there’s an ample side walk terrace.

The (mostly) traditional menu offers a selection of charcuterie, cheeses and conserves on one side, the other has cold and hot dishes, char-grilled options and desserts. There are also a couple of children’s dishes available (something you seldom see any more). Loved everything we tried here on two visits, especially the grilled chipirones (squid) and presa Ibérica (pork shoulder). Service is friendly and professional and there’s a good wine list.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Esperanza de Triana 41
Tel 954 33 90 82
Open 8.00 – 00.30 Monday – Thursday
13.00 – 00.30 Friday – Sunday
All day kitchen
(summer hours: evenings only Mon-Thurs / 13.00 – midnight Fri-Sun)
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

ensaladilla with marinated salmon

croquetas: jamón, cabrales cheese, beef and mushroom

grilled chipirones with ink

chocos fritos with squid ink mayo

grilled pluma

grilled pluma Ibérica

fall-off-the-bone pork ribs with house bbq sauce

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I first met Victor Gamero many years ago when he was head chef at Alcuza. Then in September 2020 Victor opened this charming abacería a stone’s throw from Triana Market. El Mercader is a cosy neighbourhood bar that offers an excellent selection of charcuterie and cheeses, along with hot and cold tapas. Although there is no actual kitchen, chef Victor has prepared several dishes that he finishes off at the bar, including octopus with pimentón potatoes, “MexDiterráneo” tuna tartare, baked marinated swordfish with leek purée and tender lacquered pork ribs.

Then there’s the wine. The wine list is varied and always changing and Victor is happy to make recommendations. You can order by the glass or bottle, or if you prefer, you can even buy a bottle off the shelf and, for a very reasonable 8€ corkage fee, have it served at your table.

This is very much a family affair and attention to quality is apparent, even down to the gorgeous crusty sourdough bread, artisanal crisps, gourmet picos and regañá. Keep an eye out for special wine tasting events.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.20€ PER PERSON

Antillano Campos 15
Tel 609 56 20 42
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday & Monday
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

chicharrones de la casa

chicharrones de Cádiz

mature raw milk goat cheese (Guarromántico) by Quesos y Besos

salchichón Ibério cular

ensaladilla with gambas al ajillo (and ajillo mayo)

caña de lomo Ibérico

Cantabrian anchovies on toasted brioche

cured goat and sheep cheeses

baked marinated swordfish with leek purée, ginger and lime

owner chef Victor Gamero

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Updated January 2023

A little slice of Galicia at the far end of Triana, Casa Casimira was founded in 1945 by gallego Casimiro Iglesias and started off as a wine shop. His son Fernando and later Isidro Baeza, the current owner of Casimira, added a tapas menu that included both Andaluz and Galician dishes. These days this very popular bar is a favourite both with locals and “visitors from Sevilla”. The bar inside is quite cosy and comfortable, but the large side walk terrace is where most people like to be.

You have to try the breaded courgette slices (the house speciality) and Galician dishes such as the pulpo and zorza are also very good. Loved the char-grilled lamb chops too and next time will be sure to order a ración. Very friendly service and a nice neighbourhood vibe.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ per person

Avenida de Coria 19
Tel 954 34 12 69
Open 12.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight
(closed Tuesday)
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

chocos fritos

crispy fried courgette (house speciality)

pulpo a la gallega

zorza!

pan grilled rosada with salsa verde

char-grilled lamb chops

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Twenty-odd years ago this used to be my favourite (actually only) dining out spot – as opposed to tapas places – because it was cheap and cheerful and had the best views in the city. Situated right on the river bank facing the Torre del Oro, La Primera del Puente Terraza has recently had a make over. The kitchen is actually across the street at the Primera del Puente bar (which also has a dining area in the back) and both places have many of the same dishes on their menus, but the terraza offers mostly raciones (larger plates). Fish and seafood are the house specialities.

It’s a split level set up with the lower one having the better river view and, although technically “outdoors” the terraces are covered in awnings so it’s comfortable any time of year.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Bétis 69
Tel 954 276 918
Open 13.00 – 17.00 / 20.30 – midnight
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

grilled mushrooms with garlicky salsa verde

toasted pepito of gambas with al ajillo sauce

tender fried chocos (cuttlefish)

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Opened in May 2021 La Atrayana has become a neighbourhood favourite. Sevillanos Ignacio Matías Mestre, Roberto Fernández, Borja Cuéllar and Raúl Moreno have created a welcoming space that is all warm wood and wicker inside, the décor reflecting their natural approach to food and wine, and a spacious terrace in the orange tree filled square (makes note to go back in the spring).

The menu includes traditional Andalusian dishes made from “KM0” products from the Sevilla-Huelva-Cádiz triangle. The wine list offers a good selection of national wines, including several natural ones. There are tapas and larger dishes for sharing, but the tapas are actually quite generous as you can see below. Housemade desserts and fab sourdough bread.

Be sure to try the prawn-studded ensaladilla topped with grated cured tuna heart and mojama, a fresh and delightful tortillita de camarones “taco” shell with guacamole and char-grilled gambas, grilled leeks with romesco sauce, the croquetas and char-grilled pluma Ibérica.

Bread/Service Charge: 1 € PER PERSON

Plaza Virgen de los Dolores 6
Tel 854 60 21 80
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Monday – Thursday
12.00 – midnight Friday-Saturday-Sunday
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

sourdough bread and picos

ensaladilla with grated cured tuna heart, mojama and caperberries

smoked sardine from Barbate on sourdough toast with tomato sorbet

char-grilled leeks with romesco sauce and toasted hazelnut

the house croquetas:  puchero with hierbabuena alioli

tortillita de camarones “taco” shell with guacamole and char-grilled gambas

grilled gambones (big prawns!) with kimchi mayo

croquetas del día: morcilla with caramalised apple
prawns with coconut milk and basil

cannelloni filled with stewed oxtail

carrillada Ibérica

char-grilled Pluma Ibérica  with fragrant salsa verde and roasted potato

grilled solomillo Ibérico

lemon meringue pie

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Updated December 2022

El Loco de Sanlúcar is really an extension of the Arrocería Criaito, the next aisle over in Triana Market, specialising in the tapas of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. This means lots of fish and seafood dishes, including classics like tortillita de camarones, the famous Sanlúcar prawns, rice dishes, huevas (fish roe), stews, and typical fried fish like acedías and pijotas, cooked in an open kitchen.

Most of the fish and seafood is sold by weight – it’s a good idea to check the price before ordering. Cold tapas and stews run between 3-4 euros, and there are usually five types of rice on offer each day, which you can order as a tapa or ración. Be sure to try the sardina en vinagre, a delicious take on the usual boquerón. There’s a good selection of sherry wines from Sanlúcar, as well as several choices from the north.  You can either sit at the tables in front ot the stall, or stand at the upturned barrels.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€

San Jorge 6
Triana Market – Stall 46
Tel 680 708 439
Open 12.30 – 17.00 Tuesday – Sunday
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

sardina en vinagre

ensaladilla de gambas

boletus croquetas

croquetas de jamón

chocos (cuttlefish)

tortillita de camarones

puntillitas (small squid)

salpicón de gambas

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Updated July 2021