It took me almost 15 years after moving here to finally go into Sevilla’s oldest and best loved ultramarinos/abacería (grocery store) and tapas bar, Casa Moreno. Well okay, not entirely true. I’d walked in a couple of times but it felt so intimate and so SPANISH – like I had stepped through a portal to the 1940s – that I felt too obviously a  guiri to comfortably stay. But I needn’t have worried. From the first time I sat at the end of the crowded bar (hidden away behind the grocery store) I was made to feel right at home.  The people here were so friendly and welcoming that I kept coming back and now I feel as if they are family. These days I am torn about telling others about Casa Moreno because I’d like to keep it as my own, but it’s probably already too late for that.

I should point out that, as at all abacerías, the tapas are made from things that you can buy in the store – there is no full kitchen (in fact the entire “kitchen” here consists of a toaster oven). So it’s mostly excellent quality cured meats and cheeses and various high-end tinned goods (anchovies from Cantabria, duck mousse…), though there are also a few prepared foods like tortilla and stews (stews are only available at lunchtime). It’s a great place for breakfast, a light snack or lunch, or to start off your evening tapeo. Lovely charming clutter everywhere, lots of tauromaquia memorabilia, stacks of tins and boxes, baskets of legumes … and an impressive list of wines by the glass, including frosty cold manzanilla La Gitana on tap.

Owners Francisco Moreno and Carmen Portillo have recently retired and their children Marta and Fran have taken over the reins, with the venerable Emilio Vara – barman and resident poet – running the bar, as he has done for the past 35 years. This is not a place to be in a hurry and your patience will be rewarded not only with delicious food and wine but also with one of Emilio’s handwritten bills, possibly the best souvenir you will take home from your visit in Sevilla. Me? I have quite a collection by now.

Bread Charge: 0€

Gamazo 7
Tel. 954 22 83 15
Open 8.30 – 15.30 / 20.00 – 22.30
Closed Saturday evenings and all day Sunday
Closed in August
€ € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 10 | Ambiance 10

Francisco & Carmen (now retired)

the Moreno family (2020)

Emilio Vara and Marta Moreno (2024)

gildas!

chicharrones “Roiz”

mussels in brine

Emilio & tortilla

chorizo piquante and cabrales cheese (house speciality)

pancetta with cheese and chorizo piquante

tuna ventresca (belly)

cecina

anchovies and cabrales blue cheese

cheese cured with black garlic

lomo en manteca

tuna ventresca (belly)

tortilla “diseño” with melted cheese & chorizo piquante

mojama (cured tuna)

morcilla artesana and morcón

salchicha

smoked salmon with anchovies

lomo en manteca with chorizo piquante (swoon!)

lomo en manteca with fino

tuna loin with evoo

chicharrón de Cádiz and pringá

ambiente!

Emilio & José

I couldn’t make it to the Velá so Emilio made me this keepsake 
Also a personalised bill below for the Queen of Tapas

cabrales and spicy morcilla (black pudding)

smoked sardine with salmorejo

palometa and cabrales cheese

selection of breakfast tostadas (available 8.30 – noon)

it’s been a pleasure…

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Updated May 2024

Founded in 2009, La Tienda de La Azotea continues to reinvent itself and each time it’s always a welcome and refreshing change. Located across the street from their main restaurant, La Tienda has a new look with an updated menu focusing more on tapas, along with a few larger plates on offer for their fresh fish and grilled meats.

The bar is cosy with large window that completely open up so you almost feel like you’re outdoors. There are tall tables as well as stools along the bar itself. Favourite dishes include the crispy pastry filled with cheese, leeks and prawns, anchovies on toast with sun dried tomato butter and the spicy red tuna tacos.

Make sure you check out the daily specials – some are pictured here so they may not be available when you visit, but there will be something equally delicious. And to start (or finish) there is an impressive list of national cheeses and charcuterie, as well as excellent desserts. Waiters are super helpful and happy to suggest wines to pair with your dishes. Great cocktail list too.

Conde de Barajas 12
Tel. 955 189 326
Open: 13.30 – 16.00 / 19.30 – 23.30
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

jamón Ibérico de bellota

salchichón Ibérico

cheese selection

classic gilda

gilda a la brasa

anchovies on toasted pan cristal with sundried tomato butter

marinated sardine on toast with smoked aubergine, basil and fried garlic

marinated potatoes with mackerel

crispy filo filled with prawns, leeks and cheese

croquetas de la casa

ensaladilla with smoked fish

marinated salmon tartare

papas aliña with chocos fritos

spicy tuna tacos in crispy corn shells with guacamole
tortillita de camarón churros

hake pavías with tartare sauce

tuna mechada with roasted peppers

marinated sardine, smoked aubergine with basil, crispy garlic

toasted pan cristal with tuna belly, roasted peppers and roasted garlic alioli

frito del día with oloroso mayo

potatoes with Carolina Reaper chili brava sauce and toasted almond alioli

artichokes with grilled foie gras and parmesan

clams in sherry sauce

piquillo peppers filled with lobster

carrillada with au gratin goat cheese and potato purée

hummus with chocos al ajillo and crispy garlic

steak tartare (frisona beef) with egg yolk gelée and caviar on brioche

whole fried pargo with oloroso mayo

chocolate coulante

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Updated December 2025

It’s a gourmet food store, it’s a wine bar, it’s the latest venture by the Federico Flores family, who have been at the distribution forefront of promoting Andalusian wines and food products for two generations. And it is housed in very chic digs in the rapidly up-and-coming Puerta de Triana neighbourhood.

You are totally spoiled for choice as there are up to five different types of jamón and 30 wines that can be sampled, as well as cheeses and tapas made from a wide range of locally produced items. A perfect try-before-you-buy option or, if you just feel like tasting, either sit out on the ample terrace or grab a cosy table at the back of the shop. Favourite tapas include the sushi Ibérico and the toasted coca with jamón, leeks, torta de serena cheese and sweet Malaga wine gelée. The very knowledgeable and helpful staff will help you choose your tapas and wine, and then pack up more for you to take home.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ per basket

San Pablo 24
Tel. 954 216 160
Open 8.30 – midnight Monday – Saturday
9.30 – 17.30 Sunday
(summer hours: closed 16.30 – 20.00)
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

three different jamones at a time are available for tasting

selection of three types of jamón iberico

selection of cheeses

Coca w/leeks, jamón, torta de serena cheese & Malaga sweet wine jelly

pincho with quail in brine, chesnut confit and PX sauce

warm salad of quail and setas with dried cherry toms

fetuccine with bolognese Ibérico

Iberian pork roll with secreto, green asparagus & serena cheese

Iberian sushi: maki and niguiri made with jamón Ibérico de bellota

bocadito de jamón iberico with hard boiled egg & tomato

caña de lomo with perfectly chilled fino sherry

red tuna brochette with veg, cream cheese & trout eggs

the wines

the window display bodega
30 wines are available to taste by the glass

the cheeses

local caviar

Federico cutting jamón

Los Flores: Álvaro, José Vicente, Federico (padre) & Federico

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Updated July 2014