El Loco de Sanlúcar is really an extension of the Arrocería Criaito, the next aisle over in Triana Market, specialising in the tapas of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. This means lots of fish and seafood dishes, including classics like tortillita de camarones, the famous Sanlúcar prawns, rice dishes, huevas (fish roe), stews, and typical fried fish like acedías and pijotas, cooked in an open kitchen.

Most of the fish and seafood is sold by weight – it’s a good idea to check the price before ordering. Cold tapas and stews run between 3-4 euros, and there are usually five types of rice on offer each day, which you can order as a tapa or ración. Be sure to try the sardina en vinagre, a delicious take on the usual boquerón. There’s a good selection of sherry wines from Sanlúcar, as well as several choices from the north.  You can either sit at the tables in front ot the stall, or stand at the upturned barrels.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€

San Jorge 6
Triana Market – Stall 46
Tel 680 708 439
Open 12.30 – 17.00 Tuesday – Sunday
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

sardina en vinagre

ensaladilla de gambas

boletus croquetas

croquetas de jamón

chocos (cuttlefish)

tortillita de camarones

puntillitas (small squid)

salpicón de gambas

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Updated July 2021

UPDATE: Although no longer with us, I leave this review of Sahumo here as a hommage to one of the loveliest food experiences – and one of the loveliest chefs – I have come across in Sevilla. Hoping that chef Dario will be back with us again.

Sahumo is the first person singular of the Spanish verb sahumar – to scent with smoke. You notice this lovely light smoky fragrance as you walk into the first dining area, which then opens onto a second, and then a third that faces the open kitchen which houses the wood-burning grill. After starting off as a restaurant in 2015, followed by a brief sojourn into the world of tapas, classically trained chef Dario Dominguez has returned to his culinary roots.

These days Sahumo now offers large plates for sharing and, although the menu isn’t extensive, it does cover a lot of bases. There are cold and hot starters, rice dishes, a couple of fish main courses and then… MEAT. Several fabulous meat options including Ibérico pork, duck breast and Galician beef. I have to say I am both charmed and impressed by Sahumo. Excellent service and wine list too. Check it out.

Zaragoza 18
Tel 609 11 52 22
Open 13.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – 11.30 Tuesday – Saturday
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

steak tartare

char-grilled scallop with bouillabaisse sauce

smoked Lanzarote salmon, butter, red onion, capers, egg

fried free range eggs with chips and caviar

seabass and avocado tartare

seasonal wild mushrooms with free range eggs, grated idiazabal

char-grilled octopus with truffle parmentier

whole chargrilled squid

presa Ibérica a la brasa

carrillada a la naranja with mortar mashed potatoes

char-grilled beef tenderloin with Cafe de Paris herb butter

entrecôte de Vaca Gallega de “Txoguitxu”,
Sanlúcar fried potatoes, padrón peppers

grilled duck breast

a KILO of Galician beef chuletón, grilled over wood-burning BBQ

crêpes suzette

owner & chef Dario, Ana and Manuel

Walter

gorgeous floor tiles

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Updated December 2018