I actually came here as part of my research into the best places to have snails in Seville, but it deserved a visit as one of Triana’s very typical neighbourhood bars, founded in 1972 by the father of current owners Manuel and Carmen. Inside is fairly small and basic, but the décor includes some lovely tiles around the bar depicting scenes from the barrio, and its famous beer pump model of Santa Ana Church. There’s also a decent sized terrace outside.

We didn’t stop long, but we did try the caracoles (small snails in broth), which lived up to their reputation and were obviously popular with the clientele, and the house speciality of fried chicken (delicious). There’s also a good range of stews, including cocido, potaje and spinach with chickpeas.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Alfarería 5
Tel 954 663 520 221
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evening and Monday
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 5 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

caracoles in broth

fried chicken

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Opened in 1971 by Alfonso Pérez Díaz, who received the title “El Rey de los Caracoles” (King of the Snails) in a local contest, this tiny bar is now run by his son Manuel Pérez. Manuel sticks to his father’s original recipes for the two types of snails they serve – caracoles and cabrillas – which can also be ordered to take-away. Snail season runs from mid-April to the end of June, but there are plenty of other delish tapas on offer during the rest of the year, all prepared by Manuel.

The bar has only 3 tall tables with stools inside, and a bit of bar space, so it’s not unusual to see it filled to capacity (and then some!). Clearly beloved by locals, it’s all self-service as Manuel cooks, pours drinks and chats with everyone. Nobody is in a hurry here and it’s quite a special cosy and friendly ambiance. We loved the albóndigas (pork meatballs) in a toasted almond sauce and the tortilla in whisky sauce, though everything we tried was also very good.

As for the snails, I have to say that I prefer the caracoles in broth to the larger cabrillas, that are served with a thicker tomato-based sauce. It needn’t be a divisive issue… though the signs behind the bar for Bétis Caracoles and Sevilla Carbrillas might suggest otherwise. 

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Santas Patronas 5
Tel 606 79 33 99
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.15 – 01.00
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

caracoles with manzanilla

chicharrones

tortilla al whisky

ensaladilla “aleman” with pickles and sausage

cabrillas en salsa

carrillada (pork cheek)

lomo con tomate (pork loin)

albóndigas (pork meatballs) in toasted almond sauce

Manuel Pérez

Bétis Caracoles or Sevilla Cabrillas?

“El Rey de los Caracoles”

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