Leña al Lomo is basically a brasserie, specialising in grilled meats, fish and vegetables, a use for which the space is eminently suitable. The building used to be a carbonería (coal warehouse), and the décor has a certain tastefully done industrial chic under a high ceiling. There are a half dozen tables in the bar area, and a comfortable dining room in the back looking onto a small courtyard.

The tapas menu is limited, but we enjoyed a marinated sardine on toast,  bacalao and prawn rice, and a delicious truffle steak tartar (unmissable). On a second visit we went for the chargrilled octopus and solomillo (pork tenderloin). Both fabulous. Service is very good, professional and personable. The wine list is also good, though wines by the glass are a bit limited. Overall, a great experience, but will have to go back with several friends to order up more dishes to share.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Progreso 14
Tel 640 192 873
Open 14.00 – 16.00 / 21.00 – midnight
14.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

marinated sardine on toast with tomato jam

foie micuit with apricot jam and raisin toast

steak tartar with truffle oil

cod and prawn rice with wild garlic

chargilled octopus over creamy pimentón potatoes

beef tenderloin (250 gr) with padrón peppers

crispy fried chips

beef chop (900 gr) with padrón peppers

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UPDATE: Although no longer with us, I leave this review of Sahumo here as a hommage to one of the loveliest food experiences – and one of the loveliest chefs – I have come across in Sevilla. Hoping that chef Dario will be back with us again.

Sahumo is the first person singular of the Spanish verb sahumar – to scent with smoke. You notice this lovely light smoky fragrance as you walk into the first dining area, which then opens onto a second, and then a third that faces the open kitchen which houses the wood-burning grill. After starting off as a restaurant in 2015, followed by a brief sojourn into the world of tapas, classically trained chef Dario Dominguez has returned to his culinary roots.

These days Sahumo now offers large plates for sharing and, although the menu isn’t extensive, it does cover a lot of bases. There are cold and hot starters, rice dishes, a couple of fish main courses and then… MEAT. Several fabulous meat options including Ibérico pork, duck breast and Galician beef. I have to say I am both charmed and impressed by Sahumo. Excellent service and wine list too. Check it out.

Zaragoza 18
Tel 609 11 52 22
Open 13.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – 11.30 Tuesday – Saturday
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

steak tartare

char-grilled scallop with bouillabaisse sauce

smoked Lanzarote salmon, butter, red onion, capers, egg

fried free range eggs with chips and caviar

seabass and avocado tartare

seasonal wild mushrooms with free range eggs, grated idiazabal

char-grilled octopus with truffle parmentier

whole chargrilled squid

presa Ibérica a la brasa

carrillada a la naranja with mortar mashed potatoes

char-grilled beef tenderloin with Cafe de Paris herb butter

entrecôte de Vaca Gallega de “Txoguitxu”,
Sanlúcar fried potatoes, padrón peppers

grilled duck breast

a KILO of Galician beef chuletón, grilled over wood-burning BBQ

crêpes suzette

owner & chef Dario, Ana and Manuel

Walter

gorgeous floor tiles

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Updated December 2018