When Ramón and Carmen closed their beloved Abacería last year it felt like the end of an era. Then an old pal of Ramón’s took over the building and, with a chef as partner, reopened under the same name, maintaining the same charming clutter (though now only the ground floor is in use) and also keeping several of the original popular dishes. It was with a bit of trepidation that I stopped by the other day since I have known and loved the original bar for so long. At first glance it looked great, and some of the old staff were also there. We were early enough to get a small table and proceeded to try a few old favourites.

And while everything was fine it wasn’t the same, and I suppose it really couldn’t have been. I guess this is my issue about people reopening old bars and using the original identity rather than just using the space for a new project. I mean it’s always sad to lose an “old friend”, but somehow it’s sadder to see a semblance of the old friend again without the innate charm and character that made them special to you. But I can see a lot of care has been put into keeping the old abacería alive and that’s admirable in itself. And the staff is great, very personable and friendly.

Bread Charge: 1.50€

Teodosio 53
Tel
Open: 12.30 – 23.00
(kitchen closed 16.30 – 20.00)
12.30 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

gildas

chicharrones de Cádiz

Andazul cheese from Cádiz

cheese and charcuterie

buñuelos de bacalao

pavía de bacalao

croquetas: jamón (L) and cheese & walnut (R)

papas bravas with torreznos de Soria

los huevos de Álvaro

tomato soup

bacalao con tomate and alioli gratin

spinach crepe with melted sheep cheese

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UPDATE: After 27 years Ramón López de Tejada and María del Carmen Vázquez Colchero have made the very difficult decision of permanently closing the doors of their beloved abacería, due to reasons mostly surrounding complicated zoning regulations. We will miss them and hope they will be back with another project in a different location (something not entirely ruled out yet). Meanwhile I will leave this post here as a tribute to one of Sevilla’s most iconic bars and all the wonderful memories and meals shared.

At first glance a typical “abacería” combination of provisions store, delicatessen and tapas bar, it turns out that La Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo is anything but typical. Making clever use of the four downstairs rooms in this lovingly restored 17th century house, co-owners (and husband & wife) Ramón & María del Carmen have added personal touches, like the ever-changing window display in front of the bar, and walking through the rooms offering little complementary snacks to customers. There are also several upstairs dining rooms and a charming rooftop terrace. It’s a very popular spot, and has the feel of a “local” with everybody on first name terms.

The food is mainly larger “plates for sharing”, but there’s a good selection of tapas too. Be sure to ask about the daily specials – we always love the croquetas del día and the tomato soup is comfort food heaven. If you are feeling adventurous you can order “Lo Que Diga Ramón” (“what Ramón says” 20€ per person/two person minimum/drinks not included) and see what you get. Andalusian wines are featured though other regions also appear on the list, and there is an impressive range of sherry wines as well. As you would expect, the service is very personal and friendly and you feel like you’ve been invited into someone’s home.

Bread Charge: 0€

Teodosio 53
Tel 954 380 067
Open: 10.00 – midnight
10.00 – 18.00 Sunday & Monday
All Day Kitchen
Closed: Tuesday & Wednesday
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

take-away counter

manzanilla on tap

chicharrones de Cádiz

cheese and olives

jamón, cheese, caña de lomo, chorizo

Cantabrian anchovies

pochas aliñá

soldadito de pavía

los huevos de Ramón

hard boiled egg croqueta

gambas al ajillo croquettes

escarole croquetas

salchichón from Río Tinto

chistorras in crispy pastry

one perfect langostino

grilled sardines

tomato soup

espinacas labrás

retinto beef meatballs

gambas al ajillo with scallops

carne con tomate

Iberian pork in tomato sauce with fried potatoes

arroz del día

lamb croquetas

olive croquetas

croquetas de puchero

garbanzo and butter bean puchero, with pringá

chocos in fried bread sauce

Cantabrian anchovies

mini empanadas filled with tuna and tomato

co-owner Ramón Lopez de Tejada

beef stew

retinto beef burger with caramalised onions

carrillada in red wine sauce

carne con tomate

grilled lamb kidneys

Estela, Ramón, María del Carmen, María

Ramón & María del Carmen celebrating the bar’s 20th anniversary (2012)

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Updated June 2023