Opened in late 2022, Señor Cangrejo was awarded a Guía Repsol Sol (Spain’s Michelin counterpart) earlier this year. It is run by real life partners chef Jesús León and FOH/sommelier Fátima Villaneva, with backing from biz partners Tradevo and Ovejas Negras.  The discreet “blink and you’ll miss it” entrance in calle Harinas (formerly Mesón del Pulpo) leads to a small modern space with slate grey industrial-chic décor and seating for 30, divided between a bar with stools and high tables across from the bar and three low tables in the back dining area.

The menu is also small, with daily specials, and the dishes are haute-fusion takes on mostly Andalusian products. For once I didn’t balk at the ubiquitous “bread charge” because with thick crusty goodness from Biga accompanied with black garlic butter… well, it’s totally worth it. Our starters were both playful and delicious, my favourite being the scallops in a creamy chicken escabeche. The tuna tartare with sesame oil marinade and roasted avocado cream (a special of the day) was inspired and grilled presa Ibérica with parnsip sauce (parsnips!!!) also made us very happy. On another occasion we tried a whole corvina – white sea bass – head (!), which was expertly dissected and prepared by Jesús and each different part was succulent and delicious. Be sure to save some room for desserts. Classic poleá and arroz con leche take on a whole other meaning here.

Service is very attentive with clearly well-trained and knowledgeable staff, and if you’re not sure what to order you can request that they create a special tasting menu for you. The wine list also deserves a special mention. Very well curated with plenty of options by the glass. And as Fátima is from Cádiz it’s no surprise that there is also an excellent selection of sherry wines. Recommended!

Bread/Service Charge: 2.50€ PER PERSON

Harinas 21
Tel 955 09 29 10
Open 13.30 – 16.15 / 20.30 – 23.15
Closed Wednesday
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bread from Biga with black garlic butter

torched volandeira, creamy chicken escabeche and garlic toffee

crystal tartlet, creamy foie, almond praline, golden mustard and carob

crystal tartlet, flambéed aubergine and miso, anchovies in housemade vinegar,
topped with anchovy oil powder

quisquillas (prawns), corn aguachile with smoky notes

clams in herb butter

tuna tartare, sesame dressing, red onion, edamame and roasted avocado cream

Fátima with whole corvina (sea bass) head
cogote de corvina (morillo, mormo, contramormo, facera)
with pil pil and bilbaína emulsion

grilled beef sweetbreads with celeriac purée

grilled pluma Ibérica marinated in shio koji, with parsnip cream

desserts!

poleá with pickled cherries and spiced bread

rice pudding

co-owners Fátima Villanueva (somm & foh) and Jesús León Delgado (chef)

Back to Top

Updated July 2024