A stone’s throw from the cathedral, this used to be THE place to eat in Calle Mateos Gago, and it was one of the first bars I got to know since I used to live next door (see those arched windows on the upper right hand side of this photo? my first home in Sevilla in 1993). After the bar was sold by owner Paco Sánchez in 2007 it became more touristy and I stopped going as much. Then during a recent renovation the present owners uncovered some murals belonging to an arabic bathhouse dating back to the 12th century, which led to removing the entire false ceiling and to further discoveries, with finally a decision taken to preserve the baths while allowing the bar to continue functioning. This was first reported in early 2021 as a complete surprise to everyone involved, but I remember being told by the barmen years ago that the bar was built over an ancient hammam. Perhaps nobody told the new owners?

They have done a nice job of the restoration and have maintained most of the original bar space, moving the huge wooden bar to one side, so there are still two dining areas (one with a cosy mezzanine) with the now exposed beautiful vaulted ceilings and arches, that include 88 luceras (small star-shaped skylights). Large windows look out on a comfortable sidewalk terrace.

The menu is pretty much the same as before and I was keen to try the solomillo al whisky, (pork tenderloin in a garlicky sauce) which used to be one of the best in town. Unfortunately it was a bit disappointing (meat dry, chips cold) and, while the other tapas we tried were good, nothing really left us wanting to hurry back. But it has become very popular again already and will certainly be a hit with tourists when they return.

Bread Charge: 1€

Mateos Gago 3
Tel. 954 22 82 50
All day kitchen (check hours)
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 5 | Ambiance 8

chocos fritos (cuttlefish)

artichokes

chipirones (small squid) with squid ink rice

solomillo al whisky

Below: how the bar looked before the restoration…

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Updated April 2021