I first visited Bodega Vargas years ago at its original location in calle Rodrigo de Triana. Started in 1985 by Manuel Vargas, a name synonymous with flamenco and bullfighting, it began as a simple tavern offering beer, wine and a few snacks. Later on Manuel introduced a few more traditional dishes like stews and fried fish and then moved to larger premises around the corner in calle San Jacinto, initially keeping both locations open. When Manuel retired in 2016 his daughter Remedios and her husband Enrique Martínez took over the reins and in 2020 they decided to focus on the San Jacinto location, expanding the menu further, with Enrique personally selecting one of the city’s most impressive sherry lists (close to 100 references available by the glass).

The corner location in San Jacinto leads into a lovely leafy square and, while the bar inside is small, there are also several tall tables available out on the terraza. Much of the old memorabilia and photos from the original Vargas have made there way here resulting in a wonderfully eclectic and totally trianero ambiance.

Remedios and Enrique pride themselves on keeping their menu traditional and true to their roots and I commend them totally. Because it’s a great menu. On a recent visit we enjoyed amazing grilled garlicky scallops, tasty marinated lagrimitas de pollo and extra sizzly gambas al ajillo. All exactly as they should have been, and that’s something I miss these days. I mean, I love the innovative stuff too but there’s nothing like knowing a traditional bar is staying traditional, because that’s why we go there.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ bread / 0.30€ picos

San Jacinto 68
Tel 657 184 050
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Wednesday – Saturday
12.00 – 16.00  Sunday & Tuesday
closed Monday
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 6 | Ambiance 8

garlicky grilled scallops

lagrimitas de pollo with parsley alioli

dressed Los Palacios tomatoes with melva

gambas al ajillo

Enrique Martínez

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Updated June 2026