When Ramón and Carmen closed their beloved Abacería last year it felt like the end of an era. Then an old pal of Ramón’s took over the building and, with a chef as partner, reopened under the same name, maintaining the same charming clutter (though now only the ground floor is in use) and also keeping several of the original popular dishes. It was with a bit of trepidation that I stopped by the other day since I have known and loved the original bar for so long. At first glance it looked great, and some of the old staff were also there. We were early enough to get a small table and proceeded to try a few old favourites.

And while everything was fine it wasn’t the same, and I suppose it really couldn’t have been. I guess this is my issue about people reopening old bars and using the original identity rather than just using the space for a new project. I mean it’s always sad to lose an “old friend”, but somehow it’s sadder to see a semblance of the old friend again without the innate charm and character that made them special to you. But I can see a lot of care has been put into keeping the old abacería alive and that’s admirable in itself. And the staff is great, very personable and friendly.

Bread Charge: 1.50€

Teodosio 53
Tel
Open: 12.30 – 23.00
(kitchen closed 16.30 – 20.00)
12.30 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

gildas

chicharrones de Cádiz

Andazul cheese from Cádiz

cheese and charcuterie

buñuelos de bacalao

pavía de bacalao

croquetas: jamón (L) and cheese & walnut (R)

papas bravas with torreznos de Soria

los huevos de Álvaro

tomato soup

bacalao con tomate and alioli gratin

spinach crepe with melted sheep cheese

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