Cinco Jotas

Cinco Jotas (owned by the Osborne Group) is, of course, best known for their charcuterie, especially their superb Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, but they also have a chain of restaurants in several Spanish locations – including Sevilla. The location is not only well-known for the jamón, but also for its unusual horseshoe shaped bar, in the classic horseshoe shaped building on the corner of the Puerta Arenal. Aside from the bar there is a dining room at the back and a small sidewalk terrace. Food and service are very good, though a bit pricey, and it never quite shakes off the feeling of being part of a chain.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Castelar 1
Tel 954 210 763
Open 8.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
12.15 – midnight Saturday – Sunday
Kitchen closed 16.30 – 20.00
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

croquetas de jamón

strips of cuttlefish with citrus mayo

solomillo with cabrales cheese

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Bar Arenal Ventura

On the corner of Calle Arfe and Calle Antonia Diaz is the little Bar Arenal Ventura, now in its eighth decade and third generation. It’s regarded as one of the classics, in part because of its long association with the nearby bullring and the people who work there (including the second generation owner who was an alguacil at the Maestranza). Inside is tiny, just a couple of small tables, and standing room at the bar, though there’s also a small terrace outside.

It still has the ambiente taurino, the walls full of pictures and mementoes of all things bullfighting. The menu is simple, the most famous offerings being mussels in escabeche and tuna (bonito), although the tortilla, ensaladilla and anchovies are also recommended, along with a nice glass of fino or an ice cold beer.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ for a bag of picos

Arfe 2
Tel 954 223 686
Open 9.30 – midnight Monday – Saturday
12.00 – 17.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

mussels in escabeche

bonito (tuna)

three generations

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Mariscos Emilio

Mariscos Emilio is named for Emilio Guerrero, who began the family business selling seafood from a basket, an image that is still the symbol of the chain of seafood restaurants founded by his son Antonio with the opening of the first Mariscos Emilio in San Juan de Aznalfarache, just outside Seville, in 1970.

Flagship of the group is the Mariscos Emilio in Calle Genova, on the boundary of Triana and Los Remedios, which still does what the name says – high quality seafood of every description. This is every inch a typical Seville fish bar-restaurant, with a long bar area displaying their wares facing a row of large windows which let in lots of light, and allow you to watch the world going by outside, a tank of live lobsters, and a restaurant area in the back, complete with two model ships in glass cases.

The food is good too, with many of the classic Seville dishes. We sampled a sizzling gambas al ajillo, perfectly fried cod and prawn & jamón stuffed mushrooms and were not disappointed.

There is now a Mariscos Emilio Tapas Bar next door too, which extends the range out of specialised seafood to meat based tapas as well, but that’s for another time.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Genova 1
Tel 954 285 032
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bacalao frito

fried mushrooms filled with jamón and prawns

sizzling gambas al ajillo

tapas bar next door

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Bache San Pedro

Bache San Pedro can be found in a pleasant location at the back of Plaza Cristo de Burgos (the church of San Pedro is at the opposite end of the square), and is a cosy restaurant, with bar space and an additional couple of tables on a terrace outside. It’s a fairly typical example of a modern style Seville bar, with lots of wood and tile, and a partly open kitchen, with an elegant overall feel.

It’s the current project of well known Cádiz chef Alex Alcántara, who opened the original Bache in Madrid in 2015. The small menu (14 savoury dishes, 4 desserts) is a mix of Cádiz and Sevilla, with a few international touches, notably some oriental sauces. The food was good quality, but we thought the tapas we tried were somewhat overpriced for the quantity served. Mains looked more generous.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Cristo de Burgos 23
Tel 954 502 934
Open 13.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – midnight Tuesday – Sunday
13.30 – 17.00 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

croquetas de puchero

panko-breaded chicken with kimchee sauce

chicharrón de Cádiz kebab with payoyo cheese and achiote sauce

solomillo “al wisconsin” with seasonal mushroom

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Taberna El Lerele

El Lerele is one of a number of new abacería/tabernas that have opened up around Sevilla recently, and is possibly one of the best. After living in several different places around Spain and trying his hand at various professions, owner Miguel has returned to his home town to offer his version of a cosy neighbourhood bar that is typically Sevillian. It specialises in charcuterie, with some traditional cooked tapas (cooked by Miguel’s mother). The wine list is still a work in progress, but we were able to find some nice sherries on the list.

Open for breakfast during the week, and from midday weekends, El Lerele stays open all day so people have a place to stop in anytime, for a drink, a meal, a snack and a chat.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Muro 5
Tel 955 238 105
Open 8.00 – midnight Tuesday – Friday
11.00 – midnight Saturday – Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

chicharrones de Cádiz

queso viejo (cured sheep cheese) from Pamplona

albóndigas de chocos (cuttlefish meatballs) in salsa verde

owner Miguel

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Abacería Los Carros

Los Carros is a bar/abacería that takes its name from the old name of Plaza Monte Sión (which takes its present name from the old Convento Monte Sión across Calle Feria). There’s basically just a small bar area, and a little terrace in the square that catches the midday sun. Self-service both inside and out. A pleasant place to stop for a snack and a drink on your way home for lunch, or before an evening tapeo.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Plaza Monte Sión 9
Tel 619 693 447
Open: 12.00 – 16.00 Monday- Tuesday
12.00 – midnight Wednesday – Saturday
12.00 – 18.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Self-Service | Ambiance 7

garlicky chicharrones

ice cold tortilla!  🙁

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Lalola Taberna Gourmet

Lalola Taberna Gourmet has been on my Twitter radar for a couple of years, but it’s taken awhile for me to get here. In part because it is located at the far end of Los Remedios, but it turns out it is well worth making the trip. It also turns out there is a bus near my (newish) house that takes me right there, so I’m sure I’ll be making that trip more often. Or at least until chef/owner Javier Abascal makes a move to the city centre.

The interior is warm and inviting, with pretty arched windows and simple rustic-chic decor. Aside from the regular menu there is also a short chalk board list of daily specials. Everything we tried here was excellent, including the fried pig ears, which were surprisingly tender. And the salchichón croquetas (chef’s choice, so they change weekly) are some of the best I’ve ever had. Hard to choose a favourite, but I am still dreaming about the lamb kidneys. There’s an excellent wine list, including several top notch sherries, and Marta or Vinchenzo will be happy to make recommendations. Be sure to save room for dessert.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Virgen del Águila 8
Tel 955 13 83 59
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evening and Monday
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

couscous with carrot, red & green pepper, leeks and purple onion

croquetas de salchichón

warm potato salad with cod liver

fried chicken bites marinated in grainy dijon, with toasted garlic alioli

fried pig ear with spiced carrot purée

grilled lamb kidneys with olive oil, lemon, aged sherry vinegar

retinto beef burger

arroz del día with carrillada

grilled presa Ibérica

white chocolate cake with a coffee & cookie base, caramel popcorn

chef Javier Abascal

chef Javier, Julio, Vinchenzo & Marta

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Salvaje

Salvaje is the latest project of the Cabrera Fernández brothers, Ahitami, Antonio and Elías, owners of the successful Sal Gorda and La Mia Tana restaurants. Located at the end of Calle Feria, and a few minutes’ walk from the Alameda, Salvaje occupies a former iron foundry (and later furniture warehouse) – the chimney is still in situ and will in due course be used for grilled meats and barbecue. The space is substantial, but broken up by open shelving and a LOT of greenery (other members of the Cabrera Fernández family are florists), making it both light and spacious, but at the same time quite intimate. At the front is an area that is essentially an abacería and bar, while further back is the courtyard area with a separate tapas menu. Eventually, the mezzanine at the very rear will be a fully fledged restaurant.

Must have tapas are the bite-sized cones of tuna tartare (available in both the bar and restaurant areas) and the creamy bone marrow croquettes. We also really like the fried hake with a ponzu sauce, and sweetbread-stuffed lamb with a salted toffee sauce. It’s still early days – Salvaje just opened early January – so expect eventual changes to the menu. The wine list is also still a work in progress. Service is helpful and friendly. Looking forward to returning soon.

Bread Charge: 0.80€ PER PERSON (but they ask first)

Resolana 40
Tel 663 589 563
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Wednesday – Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

red tuna tartare cones

bone marrow croquetas topped with aged beef carpaccio

fried hake with ponzu

lamb stuffed with sweetbreads, salted toffee sauce, crispy milk

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El Puntal

El Puntal has actually been open since November 2015, at a location where several previous bars have come and gone, but this was the first time I’d been back under the new regime. The décor is “minimalist nautical” (puntal is Spanish for strut) with a couple of tables at the front of the bar, a couple more in a small dining area at the back, and some shelf-tables with slightly uncomfortable high stools, but our waitress was efficient and friendly. Cuisine is essentially traditional with a twist (for example, presa marinated in miso), and we enjoyed everything we tried. Decent wines by the glass and also daily specials. Good value for money.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.80€ PER PERSON

Zaragoza 64
Tel 638 345 525
Open 12.30 – 16.30 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
12.30 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

adobo with lime mayo

bacalao and camarones in batter with roasted garlic

pavía de bacalao

carrillada in whisky sauce

pluma Ibérica marinated in miso with stir-fried mushrooms

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La Mar de Fresquita

La Mar de Fresquita, at one end of the main shopping area, is in many ways a typical Sevillano bar, with a bar area at the front and some tables with seating at the back, pleasant enough, but a bit lacking in atmosphere. It does, however, have a reputation for some of the best seafood in town, and the menu and showcases certainly look interesting. There’s also an impressive list of cavas, champagne and Galician wines.

Our short visit, with only a couple of tapas, wasn’t really enough to make a fair judgement of the food, but the bar service was friendly enough (though we did have the impression that we were being given the “guiri treatment”) and, once the place fills up, the ambiance does improve. Both seafood and charcuterie orders can also be prepared for takeaway. Will be back…

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

San Eloy 42
Tel 955 725 532
Open 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
Sunday 12.00 – 16.00
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

camarones

cheese

prawn and alioli montadito

prawns from Huelva

pringá montadito

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