Berrinche

I actually stumbled on Berrinche by accident (although it’s close to the main Avenida, just behind the main post office) a few days before it opened, and thought it looked promising. Finally a couple of weeks later I came back – and I wasn’t disappointed. It’s quite cosy, with about half a dozen tables around the bar, unpretentious but with a nice open feel. Also with friendly barman/owner Pepe to give us a few recommendations. Pepe also runs the Tenderete bar in barrio Santa Cruz, an earlier version of which used to be one of my late night stop (back when I was young enough to do late night stops). Berrinche is Pepe’s second venture and it looks – and tastes – like it’s going to be a success.

The food was excellent, including some properly crunchy Patatas Berrinche (like patatas bravas but with Moroccan spices), prawn croquettes with lovely chunks of prawn in them (this doesn’t often happen), wonderful breaded swordfish, and a grilled pluma from heaven. I always love it when I can recommend small neighbourhood bars like this.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Tomas de Ibarra 20
Tel 954 966 390
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Monday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

croquetas: prawn & chipirones ; duck mousse

breaded swordfish sticks with citrus mayo

bravas Berrinche – with Moroccan spices

grilled pluma Ibérica and veggies, mashed potato, hierbabuena mayo

affable owner Pepe

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BaQvs


BaQvs is Luis Gutiérrez’s new restaurant located in the Hotel Casas de la Judería, one of Seville’s most historic and fascinating architectural ensembles. The restaurant occupies three spaces in the hotel – a walk-in restaurant/tapas bar at the front, a second dining room inside, and a gorgeous colonnaded patio with a marble fountain and potted greenery – one of the prettiest patios in town. The front room is divided between the restaurant section (tables with tablecloths etc) and a more basic tapas section with tall tables and chairs. Wooden floors, beamed ceilings and padded wall coverings produce an ambiance that is both picturesque and luxurious.

Cuisine is Spanish/Mediterranean and ranges from simple traditional dishes such as ensaladilla and croquetas to more modern and elaborate dishes, either as plates for sharing or smaller tapas. The standout dish for us was a timbal of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota – definitely worth going back for. There is also an excellent wine list, including a wide range of sherries.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Santa Maria La Blanca 5
Tel 657 539 132
Open 12.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

bric-wrapped prawns with hierbabuena and tartar sauce

buñuelos de pescado (fish fritters)

timbal of jamón Ibérico with seasonal veg

the timbal opened up

chipirones (small squid)

the patio

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Palo Santo

This corner of the Plaza de la Gavidia was for many years the home of the classic Amarillo Albero, but has recently changed name and ownership (Francisco Javier Palacios) and is now the Bodega Palo Santo. We ended up there more or less by accident one day, in search of cold beer at the end of a long late-morning walk, and stayed on for a light lunch. We’ve since been back and it is definitely a place I will keep returning to.

Palo Santo a typical small neighbourhood bar, but more open and less cluttered than most, with a pleasant atmosphere, good service, and a nice view of the Plaza Gavidia, including a small sidewalk terrace. The tapas are generous, and very good value for money. Favourites (so far) are their fritos, but the stews also look tempting. Gambas al ajillo are also recommended. Nice wine list, including some very good sherries. Check it out.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Plaza de la Gavidia 5
Tel 854 700 892
Open 8.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evenings
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

croquetas de jamón

breaded bacalao

pavía de bacalao

grilled setas with prawns, jamón and bechamel

gambas al ajillo

lagramitas de presa Ibérica

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Parpatana

Parpatana is a little off my usual beat, out towards Nervión and the Santa Justa train station, but I’d heard good things about it, and chef Alberto Carrasco, so despite the heat of a sunny Sevilla day, I recently made my way there for lunch. Parpatana has been going for about a year now, and has already got its feet under the table, gastronomically speaking.

The bar is open and uncluttered, with plenty of light. Nice touches include a large diagram of the different cuts of the tuna, a reproduction of the famous painting “The surrender of Granada”, and a wood frame entrance way that reminded me of a Japanese temple before the lacquer goes on. This is probably appropriate given that tuna is the speciality of the house, and one of our chosen tapas (which were quite generous) was the parpatana from which the bar takes its name. Quality and presentation were both good, and I will certainly be back.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Plaza del Sacrificio 1
Tel 955 186 745
Open 7.00 – 20.00 Monday – Wednesday
7.00 – 23.00 Thursday – Friday
9.00 – 17.00 Saturday
(kitchen open 13.00 – 17.00)
Closed Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

chef Alberto Carrasco

the Parpatana team

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El Gato del Cura


This is a new bar in a quiet street in San Bernardo, just outside Puerta de la Carne. The exterior is unassuming, and the interior is also unfussy, but very light and comfortable. Whimsical touches include a “confessional” style screen in front of the services, and menu sections “What the cat likes” and “What the curate likes” instead of the usual fish and meat headings.

Good quality food and service from the young husband and wife team who own the bar, making our first visit a pleasant experience. I look forward to going back.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

San Bernardo 12
Tel 955 075 160
Open 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.30 Tuesday – Saturday
13.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

tempura veggies

tuna tataky almadraba

grilled octopus

squid ink rice with alioli

grilled Ibérico ribs with bbq sauce

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Zoko Sevilla

Zoko in Sevilla, opened in November 2016, is the latest venture of Argentinian chef Peter Alexander, expanding his group of restaurants (the original Zoko, el Vermut, and Zocarrá) in Zahara de los Atunes. The Sevilla restaurant provides a fusion of their typical local specialities (tuna and rice dishes respectively) together with Japanese and Peruvian influences.

Decor is typical hipster, with chalkboard walls, mismatched tables and chairs, but refreshingly with very helpful and friendly young wait staff. Be sure to check out the daily specials. We loved the tortillita de camarones – we were instructed to fold it in half and eat it like a taco. Tuna and coconut milk croquetas were lovely, topped with a sliver of cured tuna heart. Not everyone’s cup of tea (the tuna heart), but I love it. It’s really a nice casual spot and I hope to be back soon.

Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Marqués de Paradas 55
Tel 954 963 149
Open 13.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tuna & coconut milk croquettes topped with cured tuna heart

tortillita de camarones “taco”with guacamole, red onion, spicy mayo

Thai red chicken curry with couscous

char-grilled tuna ribs with bbq sauce

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Blanco Cerrillo


Founded in 1926, Blanco Cerrillo has a semi-legendary status as the purveyor of the best boquerones en adobo (fried marinated anchovies) in Sevilla. It’s a small no frills, no fuss place (metal counter, tiny kitchen) just off the main shopping street of Tetuan, and is extremely popular for a pre or post shopping snack, so the bar and terrace are almost always packed. It’s a limited menu, but the fried fish and seafood are very good and most tapas cost about 1.80€. The anchovies really are worth going for: filleted, marinated, crispy fried deliciousness.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

José de Velilla 1
Tel 954 227 384
Open 11.30 – 16.30 / 19.30 – 23.30
Closed Sundays
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

boquerones en adobo

fried calamares

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Bartolomea

Almost exactly five years after opening the very popular La Brunilda, husband and wife team Diego & Esperanza now have a second restaurant with a completely new menu, just around the corner next to the Arenal Market. Bartolomea Resto & Grill does feel more like a restaurant than Brunilda, but has the same attention to quality and detail. It’s pleasantly light and airy inside, with big windows and light wood furnishings.

We resisted going on opening day (went the next day instead) and had a very enjoyable lunch. Favourite dishes were the sea bass ceviche, the croquetas del día (in this case cabrales cheese and apple) and the perfectly grilled pluma Ibérica.  It’s a shortish menu, with starters, fish & seafood and meat dishes offered as either tapas or raciones (small or big plates).  Although we were too full to try the desserts this time, I was happy to see the revival of one of my faves from La Brunilda’s early days – the watermelon granita with stawberries, basil gelée and passion fruit ice cream. Next time!

Bread Charge: 0.80€ per person

Arenal 1
(next to Mercado Arenal)
Tel 955 234 370
Open: 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.30
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

croquetas del día (these were cabrales cheese and apple)

sea bass ceviche with yucca chips

“fish & chips”
breaded marinated rosada with adobo mayo and yucca chips

prawn burger with avocado alioli and tempura onions

chargrilled presa Ibérica with apple purée and pistachio pesto

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Maravilla Social Club

Maravilla is among a number of traditionally-styled-hipster small neighbourhood bars that have opened recently in Sevilla, in this case in the Macarena neighbourhood. It’s very much no-frills, with about half a dozen tables and a small terrace outside, but the food, a blend of traditional Andalucian and Italian, and vegetarian and eco friendly, is actually rather good. We especially loved the cauliflower in tempura and grilled pluma Ibérica.

Off the tourist beat, and not that easy to find if you’re not familiar with the barrio, but definitely worth a visit if you’re in that part of town.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Maravillas 1
Tel 643 371 148
Open 9.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
12.30 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

aji and chicken croquetas

tempura cauliflower

ginger-marinated salmon

pluma Ibérica

co-owners

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Vermutería Palabra de Bar


Vermouth (vermút in Castellano, vermú in “Andalúz” 😉 ) has always been available as an aperitif in Sevilla, but after being relegated to the choice of “old men in traditional bars” it is now enjoying a comeback and is being embraced anew by a younger generation. One of the establishments at the forefront of this resurgence is Vermutería Palabra de Bar, which after a brief spell in Plaza Regina has now moved to larger premises in Calle Sol. Owner Marijoe and barman Jorge  provide a friendly atmosphere, and a décor that’s both traditional and trendy  – painted exposed brick wall along the bar, large barrel tables at the front, as well as a couple of high tables outside. There’s a wide range of red and white vermouths with the accompaniments (oranges, olives and soda water) and a small tapas menu (also open for breakfast).  There are also small art exhibitions and occasional live music, usually on Tuesday evenings. A very cosy and comfortable neighbourhood bar.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Sol 3
Tel 653 91 36 29
Open 9.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
10.00 – 1.00 am Saturday
10.00 – 22.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Vermú 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

gildas

add your own soda

Jorge & MariJoe

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