Luna ’10

Although not a new bar, Luna’10 has recently changed hands, and following a recommendation we went there for Sunday lunch. The bar itself is really small, with just a couple of tables, but there’s a good sized terrace in the pleasant little square outside, which it shares with another bar. This was lovely in the autumn sunshine, not so sure about midsummer or midwinter, though there are gas heaters on standby.

Good service and some delicious food that included the rice of the day and a tripe stew (both only available weekend lunchtimes), an excellent presa, and a breaded goat cheese & ham roll in a sweet sauce. There is also a selection of montaditos and “panes de la casa”. Looking forward to going again.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Escuelas Pías 10
Tel 605 961 235
Open 8.00 – 16.00 Monday – Tuesday
8.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Wednesday – Friday
12.00 – midnight Saturday
12.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance7

arroz del día

pisto with fried egg

goat cheese, ham & walnut roll

breaded rosada

grilled presa Ibérica

menudo (tripe stew)

preparing the stew of the day

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La Grulla

Updated November 2017

chef and owner Marco Valcárcel

Offering traditional cuisine with an innovative touch, chef and owner Marcos Valcárcel has renovated both the space and the menu of his previous restaurant, Jarisa. The location serves his purpose well, as it is just next to the Estación de Cádiz market, and he offers not only a “seasonal” section on the menu, but also daily specials.

The corner space is bright and open, very minimalist (something I quite like) with a bar area for tapas as you enter, including seats at the bar and a few high tables. Beyond is the dining area, and there is also an ample terrace.

The chicken croquettes are some of the best croquetas I have had in Sevilla, and the other tapas we tried were all delicious. Staff are enthusiastic and friendly, there’s a good wine list, and you can also opt for the full restaurant menu.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ bar / 1.70€ restaurant PER PERSON

Juan de Mata Carriazo 4
Tel 954 41 02 67
Open 13.30 – 16.00 / 20.30 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
13.30 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

hake roe with bechamel

chicken croquetas

artichoke, cheese and spinach wraps with tomato sauce

“roast beef” carpaccio

grilled provolone cheese with two mojo picón salsas

smoked sardines on toast with avocado

huevo a la turca: soft cooked egg and bechamel, breaded and deep fried

huevo a la turca

filo trangles filled with hake and mussels

presa Ibérica with chimichurra sauce

selection of desserts

the bar

the restaurant

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Updated November 2017


Patronas has only been in business for seven years, but its style is very much the Sevillano “bar tipico” of old, from the cast iron ceiling support to the stainless steel bar, plain tables, and some very attractive ceramic tiling. The menu is traditional Andalusian, and the croquetas de puchero, fried chicken and pork albóndigas that we tried were very good. Service was indifferent, particularly given that the bar wasn’t busy at the time. I’d give it another go.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Santas Patronas 11
Tel 954 564 990
Open 12.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evening
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 8

croquetas de puchero

pork meatballs

deep-fried chicken

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Ropa Vieja

The name Ropa Vieja is a tribute to the chef’s mother and her homecooking. It literally means “old clothes” and the original dish was made from left-overs, but later became a shredded meat dish with pork, chicken, garbanzos in sauce. Poor man’s food. But the bar is quite the opposite, upscale and modern, and very social media savvy. Walls are festooned with hand-written notes from happy clients and there is a large sign over the kitchen suggesting #hashtags to use (including the dread #foodporn).

The dishes we tried were nice enough, the service was pleasant enough, and it was overall an agreeable experience. But after three dishes we felt inclined to move on, rather than try more from the menu.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.80€ PER PERSON

Muñoz Seca 8
Tel 620 12 40 25
Open 13.15 – 16.00 / 20.45 – midnight Monday – Saturday
13.15 – 16-15 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

Ropa Vieja manifesto

chicken croquetas with injectable “extra flavour”

octopus with bacalao & paprika potatoes

grilled presa with mashed leek & potatoes

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Bar Casa Eme

One of the most delightful and delicious “discoveries” in a very long time. This bar has been run for over 25 years by Emeterio (Eme) Serrano, who does absolutely everything. He runs the bar, does all the cooking, and also sings – there is a speaker outside and Eme (literally) sings the orders into a microphone behind the bar when they are ready to be picked up. For example “gambas al ajillo for the señora with the little dog”. He is a wonder.

At first I thought this would be one of those places where it was more about character and ambiance than the food, but in fact the food (albeit a limited menu) is fabulous. Montaditos (small toasted buns) are the name of the game, with a range of the traditional fillings – cod, gambas, tortilla, carne mechada, solomillo. There’s also a mean gambas al ajillo, as well as clams and snails in season, all prepared by Eme in what is possibly the city’s smallest kitchen (basically a single gas burner and frying pan next to the bar). Secret weapon is the best whisky sauce I’ve ever tasted.

I just love everything about this place, from the cosy bar (there are also some tall tables outside) to the wonderful tiled walls, to Eme himself. I’m really glad I found this bar (thanks to some friends) before it was too late, as Eme is retiring next year, although he is hoping to sell the business as a going concern. I hope it works out, as the loss of this gem would be a sad day for Sevilla.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Puerta del Osario 5
Open 14.00 – 16.30 / 20.30 – midnight
Closed Wednesdays
€ €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 10

the menu

the microphone

cured lomito

tortilla al whisky

solomillo al whisky

gambas al ajillo

egg yolk flan

the kitchen

Emeterio (Eme) Serrano

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Casa Santos

Casa Santos can be found in a little square near the city centre, but on a back street away from the main thoroughfare, and I was barely aware of its existence until being invited there by a couple of friends who live in the neighbourhood (which is now my new neighbourhood too!). And this is certainly one of those bars that’s obviously for the locals, in the shiny ceramics and metal counter top style of its time. Nothing flash, but with a good tapas list.

Until recently, the proprietor was Santos Chamarro García, whose family was among those who came to Seville from the north of Spain at the time of the 1929 expo, and contributed so much to the gastronomy of the city. Santos retired after 52 years and the bar has now passed to a younger generation. Casa Santos opens for breakfast at 7.30 in the morning and stays open until midnight, with an all-day kitchen.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Fernán Caballero 22
Tel 954 212 225
Open 7.30 – midnight
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6


papas aliñá with tuna

artichokes with jamón

spinach cannelloni with carbonara sauce

lasagna bolognese

chicken teriyaki with veggies

barman David

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El Manijero

Updated October 2017

One of the joys of moving house is an opportunity to explore a new neighbourhood in more detail. Which (together with a recommendation) brought me to renew a long-forgotten acquaintance with Restaurante El Manijero. Typical and traditional, El Manijero has been around for a long time, with a restaurant-dining room on one side, and a bar-tapas area on the other, with something of a bull-fighting theme.

The bar staff have also been there forever and are friendly and chatty, and the tapas are great, with cheese-filled breaded mushroom and fried chicken coming top of the bill. It has definitely become a neighbourhood favourite.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Trastámara 15
Tel 954 221 740
13.00 – 16.30 / 20.30 – midnight
Closed Sunday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

barmen Jaime & Antonio

padrón peppers

marinated potatoes

spinach croquetas

fried hake cheeks

cheese-filled breaded mushroom

fried chicken

fried pork ribs

marinated pork liver with onions and cilantro

grilled presa Ibérico

solomillo al whisky

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Updated October 2017

Casa La Viuda

Casa La Viuda (because of its location) is kind of the “tourist version” of the other members of the chain, Bodega Dos de Mayo and La Bodega, and shares the house style and colours – a traditional décor that’s easy on the eye, and without too much faux antique. Although it’s in an excellent location and has a pleasant enough ambience, it lacks a little of the liveliness of its brethren. The tapas menu is quite extensive, with most dishes coming as full or media raciónes, though there are a few tapas too. Lots of seafood and other traditional dishes.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Albareda 2
Tel 954 215 420
Open 12.30 – 16.30 / 20.00 – 23.30 Monday – Thursday
12.30 – midnight Friday – Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

Manuel with a selection of charcuterie

marinated pork liver with cilantro

arroz del día


breaded aubergine

bacalao confitado

buñuelos de bacalao

mini pavía de bacalao

lagrimitas de pollo with soy sauce

grilled mackerel – a daily special

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Updated November 2017

I actually stumbled on Berrinche by accident (although it’s close to the main Avenida, just behind the main post office) a few days before it opened this past summer, and thought it looked promising. A couple of weeks later I came back – and I wasn’t disappointed. It’s quite cosy, with about half a dozen tables around the bar, unpretentious but with a nice open feel. Also with friendly barman/owner Pepe to give us a few recommendations. Pepe also runs the Tenderete bar in barrio Santa Cruz, an earlier version of which used to be one of my late night stop (back when I was young enough to do late night stops). Berrinche is Pepe’s second venture and it looks – and tastes – like it’s going to be a success.

The food is excellent, including some properly crunchy Patatas Berrinche (like patatas bravas but with Moroccan spices), duck mousse & jamón croquettes, wonderful breaded swordfish, and a grilled pluma from heaven. Also check for the stew of the day, available at lunchtime – 3€ including a beer. I always love it when I can recommend small neighbourhood bars like this.

Now open for breakfast too!

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ PER PERSON

Tomas de Ibarra 20
Tel 954 966 390
Open 8.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Breakfast from 8.30 – 12.00
Closed Monday evening
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

cured Boffard sheep cheese from Vallalodid

ensaladilla de pulpo

croquetas: prawn & chipirones ; duck mousse

duck mousse & jamón croquetas

Sevillana salad: mixed greens, egg, olives, asparagus, tuna, red onion

breaded swordfish sticks with citrus mayo

smoked salmon wrap with creamy goat cheese and prawns

bravas Berrinche – with Moroccan spices

wok stir fry with chicken, veggies, mushrooms, glass noodles

carne con tomate

lamb with couscous

grilled solomillo with brandy creme sauce

grilled pluma Ibérica and veggies, mashed potato, hierbabuena mayo

BBQ pork ribs with grilled veg

chocolate coulante with violet icecream

affable owner Pepe

Abraham & Marta

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Updated November 2017

Palo Santo

Updated September 2017

This corner of the Plaza de la Gavidia was for many years the home of the classic Amarillo Albero, but has recently changed name and ownership (Francisco Javier Palacios) and is now the Bodega Palo Santo. We ended up there more or less by accident one day, in search of cold beer at the end of a long late-morning walk, and stayed on for a light lunch. We’ve since been back and it is definitely a place I will keep returning to.

Palo Santo a typical small neighbourhood bar, but more open and less cluttered than most, with a pleasant atmosphere, good service, and a nice view of the Plaza Gavidia, including a small sidewalk terrace. The tapas are generous, and very good value for money. Favourites (so far) are their fritos, but the stews also look tempting. Gambas al ajillo are also recommended, as well as the grilled presa Ibérica topped with jamón. Nice wine list, including some very good sherries. Check it out.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Plaza de la Gavidia 5
Tel 854 700 892
Open 8.00 – midnight
12.00 – 17.00 Sundays
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

La Gitana manzanilla on tap


croquetas de jamón

chocos fritos

breaded bacalao

pavía de bacalao

grilled setas with prawns, jamón and bechamel

gambas al ajillo

lagramitas de presa Ibérica

grilled presa Ibérica with jamón and potatoes

ice cream chocolates

owner Francisco

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Updated September 2017