Bajo Guia

The name Bajo Guia comes from the famous riverside street in Sanlucar de Barrameda, Bajo de Guia or Pilot’s Wharf, and this excellent restaurant specialises in the fish and seafood cuisine of that town. The original Bajo Guia was in Bermejales in south Sevilla, but a couple of years ago the team moved to this new location near the bullring, and are now doing nicely.

It is primarily a restaurant but most of the menu is available as tapas in the front area by the bar – and very good it was too. Everything from the tomato salad through boquerones fritos, tortillita de camarones (a speciality) and a whole fried choco (cuttlefish), to tuna in a delicious tomato sauce, was among the best I’ve had. Our waiter was great too, making recommendations and being attentive without being intrusive. I’ve rarely been this impressed by a first visit experience, and will definitely be back, with friends, to try some of the larger plates.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Adriano 5
Tel 954 097 452
Open 12.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 midnight
Closed Sunday evening
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tortillita de camarones

fresh tomato salad

whole fried cuttlefish

boquerones fritos

tuna in tomato sauce

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Asador Salas

I’ve known about this place for a long time, and even have a vague memory of having been here back when I was fairly new to Sevilla, so another visit was certainly in order. Sister bar to El Cairo just around the corner, it has a very Sevillano feel to it. Part of the reason for this is that’s it’s built on part of the frontage of the neo-Mudejar building next door, designed by Ánibal Gonzalez, and the small dining rooms to the side are separated by one of those Moorish arches in brick and tile and are quite grand. The main dining room and the tapas and bar area in front are less obvious, but are quite airy and spacious with a more downplayed version of the style.

As the name suggests, Salas specialises in meats and fish cooked over a holm oak charcoal grill (asador). A fairly traditional menu with a seafood bias and just enough modifications to be interesting, everything is excellently prepared. The grilled swordfish was the star tapa of the day, but the presa skewer and whole deep-fried cuttlefish were really good too. Good service, great wines, nice cosy ambiance.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ per person

Almansa 15
Tel 954 217 796
Open 12.00 – midnight every day
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

breaded whole choco

char-grilled swordfish

breaded grouper roll filled with jamón serrano

the grouper roll revealed

grilled presa Ibérica skewer with a fine herb sauce

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Luna ’10

Although not a new bar, Luna’10 has recently changed hands, and following a recommendation we went there for Sunday lunch. The bar itself is really small, with just a couple of tables, but there’s a good sized terrace in the pleasant little square outside, which it shares with another bar. This was lovely in the autumn sunshine, not so sure about midsummer or midwinter, though there are gas heaters on standby.

Good service and some delicious food that included the rice of the day and a tripe stew (both only available weekend lunchtimes), an excellent presa, and a breaded goat cheese & ham roll in a sweet sauce. There is also a selection of montaditos and “panes de la casa”. Looking forward to going again.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Escuelas Pías 10
Tel 605 961 235
Open 8.00 – 16.00 Monday – Tuesday
8.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Wednesday – Friday
12.00 – midnight Saturday
12.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance7

arroz del día

pisto with fried egg

goat cheese, ham & walnut roll

breaded rosada

grilled presa Ibérica

menudo (tripe stew)

preparing the stew of the day

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La Grulla

Updated November 2017

chef and owner Marco Valcárcel

Offering traditional cuisine with an innovative touch, chef and owner Marcos Valcárcel has renovated both the space and the menu of his previous restaurant, Jarisa. The location serves his purpose well, as it is just next to the Estación de Cádiz market, and he offers not only a “seasonal” section on the menu, but also daily specials.

The corner space is bright and open, very minimalist (something I quite like) with a bar area for tapas as you enter, including seats at the bar and a few high tables. Beyond is the dining area, and there is also an ample terrace.

The chicken croquettes are some of the best croquetas I have had in Sevilla, and the other tapas we tried were all delicious. Staff are enthusiastic and friendly, there’s a good wine list, and you can also opt for the full restaurant menu.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ bar / 1.70€ restaurant PER PERSON

Juan de Mata Carriazo 4
Tel 954 41 02 67
Open 13.30 – 16.00 / 20.30 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
13.30 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

hake roe with bechamel

chicken croquetas

artichoke, cheese and spinach wraps with tomato sauce

“roast beef” carpaccio

grilled provolone cheese with two mojo picón salsas

smoked sardines on toast with avocado

huevo a la turca: soft cooked egg and bechamel, breaded and deep fried

huevo a la turca

filo trangles filled with hake and mussels

presa Ibérica with chimichurra sauce

selection of desserts

the bar

the restaurant

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Updated November 2017

Patronas

Patronas has only been in business for seven years, but its style is very much the Sevillano “bar tipico” of old, from the cast iron ceiling support to the stainless steel bar, plain tables, and some very attractive ceramic tiling. The menu is traditional Andalusian, and the croquetas de puchero, fried chicken and pork albóndigas that we tried were very good. Service was indifferent, particularly given that the bar wasn’t busy at the time. I’d give it another go.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Santas Patronas 11
Tel 954 564 990
Open 12.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Closed Sunday evening
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 8

croquetas de puchero

pork meatballs

deep-fried chicken

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Ropa Vieja

The name Ropa Vieja is a tribute to the chef’s mother and her homecooking. It literally means “old clothes” and the original dish was made from left-overs, but later became a shredded meat dish with pork, chicken, garbanzos in sauce. Poor man’s food. But the bar is quite the opposite, upscale and modern, and very social media savvy. Walls are festooned with hand-written notes from happy clients and there is a large sign over the kitchen suggesting #hashtags to use (including the dread #foodporn).

The dishes we tried were nice enough, the service was pleasant enough, and it was overall an agreeable experience. But after three dishes we felt inclined to move on, rather than try more from the menu.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.80€ PER PERSON

Muñoz Seca 8
Tel 620 12 40 25
Open 13.15 – 16.00 / 20.45 – midnight Monday – Saturday
13.15 – 16-15 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

Ropa Vieja manifesto

chicken croquetas with injectable “extra flavour”

octopus with bacalao & paprika potatoes

grilled presa with mashed leek & potatoes

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El Manijero

Updated October 2017

One of the joys of moving house is an opportunity to explore a new neighbourhood in more detail. Which (together with a recommendation) brought me to renew a long-forgotten acquaintance with Restaurante El Manijero. Typical and traditional, El Manijero has been around for a long time, with a restaurant-dining room on one side, and a bar-tapas area on the other, with something of a bull-fighting theme.

The bar staff have also been there forever and are friendly and chatty, and the tapas are great, with cheese-filled breaded mushroom and fried chicken coming top of the bill. It has definitely become a neighbourhood favourite.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Trastámara 15
Tel 954 221 740
13.00 – 16.30 / 20.30 – midnight
Closed Sunday
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

barmen Jaime & Antonio

padrón peppers

marinated potatoes

spinach croquetas

fried hake cheeks

cheese-filled breaded mushroom

fried chicken

fried pork ribs

marinated pork liver with onions and cilantro

grilled presa Ibérico

solomillo al whisky

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Updated October 2017

Bar Amarra

Updated November 2017

We stopped by to sample the house speciality – tortillitas de camarones – which had been recommended by several of my foodie friends. The bar itself is very “typical” with a bar section at the front and a dining area in the back, and it is clearly loved by locals.

The menu is mostly fish and seafood based, and the bar staff are very friendly. As for the tortillitas? Well, I liked them, but they were a bit “clunky” in that the camarones were much bigger than I am used to, which made them chewy rather than crispy, as the shells were more developed. But they may be different at different times of year. We also liked the chocos fritos (breaded cuttlefish), and look forward to visiting again.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Pagés del Corro 43
Tel 954 338 224
Open 11.00 – 16.30 / 20.30 – 00.30 Tuesday – Saturday
11.00 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6



chocos fritos

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Updated November 2017

Berrinche

Updated November 2017

I actually stumbled on Berrinche by accident (although it’s close to the main Avenida, just behind the main post office) a few days before it opened this past summer, and thought it looked promising. A couple of weeks later I came back – and I wasn’t disappointed. It’s quite cosy, with about half a dozen tables around the bar, unpretentious but with a nice open feel. Also with friendly barman/owner Pepe to give us a few recommendations. Pepe also runs the Tenderete bar in barrio Santa Cruz, an earlier version of which used to be one of my late night stop (back when I was young enough to do late night stops). Berrinche is Pepe’s second venture and it looks – and tastes – like it’s going to be a success.

The food is excellent, including some properly crunchy Patatas Berrinche (like patatas bravas but with Moroccan spices), duck mousse & jamón croquettes, wonderful breaded swordfish, and a grilled pluma from heaven. Also check for the stew of the day, available at lunchtime – 3€ including a beer. I always love it when I can recommend small neighbourhood bars like this.

Now open for breakfast too!

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ PER PERSON

Tomas de Ibarra 20
Tel 954 966 390
Open 8.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight
Breakfast from 8.30 – 12.00
Closed Monday evening
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

cured Boffard sheep cheese from Vallalodid

ensaladilla de pulpo

croquetas: prawn & chipirones ; duck mousse

duck mousse & jamón croquetas

Sevillana salad: mixed greens, egg, olives, asparagus, tuna, red onion

breaded swordfish sticks with citrus mayo

smoked salmon wrap with creamy goat cheese and prawns

bravas Berrinche – with Moroccan spices

wok stir fry with chicken, veggies, mushrooms, glass noodles

carne con tomate

lamb with couscous

grilled solomillo with brandy creme sauce

grilled pluma Ibérica and veggies, mashed potato, hierbabuena mayo

BBQ pork ribs with grilled veg

chocolate coulante with violet icecream

affable owner Pepe

Abraham & Marta

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Updated November 2017

Parpatana

Parpatana is a little off my usual beat, out towards Nervión and the Santa Justa train station, but I’d heard good things about it, and chef Alberto Carrasco, so despite the heat of a sunny Sevilla day, I recently made my way there for lunch. Parpatana has been going for about a year now, and has already got its feet under the table, gastronomically speaking.

The bar is open and uncluttered, with plenty of light. Nice touches include a large diagram of the different cuts of the tuna, a reproduction of the famous painting “The surrender of Granada”, and a wood frame entrance way that reminded me of a Japanese temple before the lacquer goes on. This is probably appropriate given that tuna is the speciality of the house, and one of our chosen tapas (which were quite generous) was the parpatana from which the bar takes its name. Quality and presentation were both good, and I will certainly be back.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Plaza del Sacrificio 1
Tel 955 186 745
Open 7.00 – 20.00 Monday – Wednesday
7.00 – 23.00 Thursday – Friday
9.00 – 17.00 Saturday
(kitchen open 13.00 – 17.00)
Closed Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

chef Alberto Carrasco

the Parpatana team

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