Blanco Cerrillo


Founded in 1926, Blanco Cerrillo has a semi-legendary status as the purveyor of the best boquerones en adobo (fried marinated anchovies) in Sevilla. It’s a small no frills, no fuss place (metal counter, tiny kitchen) just off the main shopping street of Tetuan, and is extremely popular for a pre or post shopping snack, so the bar and terrace are almost always packed. It’s a limited menu, but the fried fish and seafood are very good and most tapas cost about 1.80€. The anchovies really are worth going for: filleted, marinated, crispy fried deliciousness.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

José de Velilla 1
Tel 954 227 384
Open 11.30 – 16.30 / 19.30 – 23.30
Closed Sundays
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

boquerones en adobo

fried calamares

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Cruo Reyes Católicos

This is one of two new slightly upmarket bar-restaurants recently opened  by the Cruo group (the other is on the south side of the Alameda de Hércules), and which take them in something of a new direction. The locale is light and spacious – big windows, high ceilings, lots of exposed brick, and light wood floors and tables. The effect is both classy and comfortable.

The menu is quite extensive, with a lot of quality charcuterie a mix of traditional and more modern mainly large plates and some tapas. The best dish we sampled was a carpaccio of presa Ibérica with a strawberry vinaigrette, celery and wasabi. Definitely something to go back for. Service gave the impression of being a little bit inexperienced, but polite and helpful, and actually quite efficient. I like that they are open all day, making it a nice spot to stop for a late afternoon drink or snack.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Reyes Católicos 14
Tel 955 648 822
Open 13.00 – midnight Monday – Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

ensaladilla with prawns, toasted garlic, carabinero mayo, red onion, pickle

presa Ibérica carpaccio, with strawberry vinaigrette, celery, wasabi

flamenquín XXL

beef and pork burger

the green-eyes cocktail: orange wine, PX, vermouth

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Bartolomea

Almost exactly five years after opening the very popular La Brunilda, husband and wife team Diego & Esperanza now have a second restaurant with a completely new menu, just around the corner next to the Arenal Market. Bartolomea Resto & Grill does feel more like a restaurant than Brunilda, but has the same attention to quality and detail. It’s pleasantly light and airy inside, with big windows and light wood furnishings.

We resisted going on opening day (went the next day instead) and had a very enjoyable lunch. Favourite dishes were the sea bass ceviche, the croquetas del día (in this case cabrales cheese and apple) and the perfectly grilled pluma Ibérica.  It’s a shortish menu, with starters, fish & seafood and meat dishes offered as either tapas or raciones (small or big plates).  Although we were too full to try the desserts this time, I was happy to see the revival of one of my faves from La Brunilda’s early days – the watermelon granita with stawberries, basil gelée and passion fruit ice cream. Next time!

Bread Charge: 0.80€ per person

Arenal 1
(next to Mercado Arenal)
Tel 955 234 370
Open: 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.30
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

croquetas del día (these were cabrales cheese and apple)

sea bass ceviche with yucca chips

“fish & chips”
breaded marinated rosada with adobo mayo and yucca chips

prawn burger with avocado alioli and tempura onions

chargrilled presa Ibérica with apple purée and pistachio pesto

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Vermutería Palabra de Bar


Vermouth (vermút in Castellano, vermú in “Andalúz” 😉 ) has always been available as an aperitif in Sevilla, but after being relegated to the choice of “old men in traditional bars” it is now enjoying a comeback and is being embraced anew by a younger generation. One of the establishments at the forefront of this resurgence is Vermutería Palabra de Bar, which after a brief spell in Plaza Regina has now moved to larger premises in Calle Sol. Owner Marijoe and barman Jorge  provide a friendly atmosphere, and a décor that’s both traditional and trendy  – painted exposed brick wall along the bar, large barrel tables at the front, as well as a couple of high tables outside. There’s a wide range of red and white vermouths with the accompaniments (oranges, olives and soda water) and a small tapas menu (also open for breakfast).  There are also small art exhibitions and occasional live music, usually on Tuesday evenings. A very cosy and comfortable neighbourhood bar.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Sol 3
Tel 653 91 36 29
Open 9.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
10.00 – 1.00 am Saturday
10.00 – 22.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Vermú 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

gildas

add your own soda

Jorge & MariJoe

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Patas de Gallo

Patas de Gallo opened in March 2016 and bills itself as a “grunge” (?) fusion gastrobar, and owner Felipe Oliver Cousinou is also the proprietor of food and wine shop Catabuche in the Puerta Real. The premises are very pleasant, with a kind of “bistro style” feel to them that includes a substantial bar area, plenty of patterned tiles and even a “Star Wars” wall.

Food is generally good, but the staff could do with a bit more training. There are plenty of nice wines on offer, but our server didn’t know much about them, or the dishes. I think the Andalusian dishes worked better than the fusion attempts, but that’s me talking. I often think fusion bars here in Sevilla count on the local clientele never having eaten the original real deal. Anyhow, it’s a nice bar, good for snacks and wine.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Carlos Cañal 32
Tel 689 714 365
Open 9.00 – 16.00 / 20.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
12.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service6 | Ambiance 6

cruquemoles… guac croquetas

crispy gyozas

grilled solomillo Ibérico with mojo mayo

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La Cata Ciega

Updated April 2017

If I hadn’t arranged to meet a friend here, on his recommendation, I might have never have gone into this unassuming little bar on Calle Zaragoza, which has recently changed hands. And that would have been a great shame, because it turned out to be a total gem, with an equally delightful owner, Álvaro Harillo. Like one of his various amontillados, this is a bar that has had two lives. It first opened in El Puerto Santa Maria in May 2012, but then closed in January 2016, after which it relocated to Seville, opening again in November 2016 – complete with the original bar. And since that first unexpected visit it’s become a real favourite.

It’s a traditional sit-or-stand at the bar neighbourhood local, with a small but carefully selected traditional tapas menu that includes an unusually good ensaladilla, melt-in-your-mouth carrillada de jabolí (wild boar cheek), marinated tuna, and daily stews. The high point though is an excellent wine list of less commercial brands, and, as you might expect from a bar that started life in El Puerto, an excellent variety of sherries. This is definitely a great find.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ PER PERSON

Zaragoza 15
Tel 622 843 374
Open 13.00 – 16.00 Tuesday – Saturday
13.00 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

ensaladilla with tuna

timbal of octopus with lots of smoky pimiento

king prawns and leeks with grain mustard and oloroso

marinated tuna with seaweed “spaghetti”

retinto beef carpaccio with mango

presa Ibérica de Bellota

wild boar pork cheek

lemon pie

Abraham and owner Álvaro

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Updated April 2017

Taberna del Alabardero

The Alabardero is in some ways a slightly unusual creature, part boutique hotel (7 rooms), part catering school, part bistro/cafeteria/tapas bar, and part restaurant, all housed in a classic 19th century “casa palacio” with lots of beautiful tiles and antique style furniture. It all seems to work well together, though, and since opening its doors in 1992 the Alabardero has become one of the pillars of Sevillano gastronomy.

The cafeteria and tapas bar area can be found in in the main courtyard as you enter, with the bistro off to one side (which offers an excellent set menu). The restaurant is upstairs, specializing in high quality Andalusian dishes. We opted for tapas this visit and other than one slight blip – the croquetas could have been tastier – we loved every dish. Service is very attentive and, although perhaps a bit formal, it’s in keeping with the elegant surroundings and it’s actually refreshing to find such well-trained staff.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Zaragoza 20
Tel 954 502 721
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – 23.30
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

two kinds of croquettes: mushroom and seafood

marinated salmon

foie micuit with ginger toast

grilled octopus with potato purée and smoked paprika

grilled beef tenderloin with carrot and beet purées

pear tatin with chocolate ice cream

Azabache cake, chocolate, sable Breton, apple créme, saffron brûlée

the bistro

central courtyard

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Zalata

Zalata is a slightly off the beaten track neighbourhood bar run by husband & wife team Younes & Viviana. And lucky for me that they happen to be in MY neighbourhood! The modest sized menu is a fusion of Spanish, Moroccan and Peruvian, with a few touches acquired by Younes on his travels, and includes salads, hot and cold meat and fish dishes and desserts.

We enjoyed a varied selection that included really crunchy & tasty chicken croquettes, a deliciously light and citrusy ceviche, and perfectly grilled presa Ibérica. All of which served to bring me back again a few days later to test out some more of the menu – fried chicken bits with fried spiralised potato? Wonderful! Swordfish with a radish slaw? Equally good. I even went so far as to have a dessert (well okay, my friend did) – a dark chocolate cake with a light fresh chestnut sauce.

Excellent friendly service makes you feel right at home. And they’re even open Sundays and Mondays! Already a neighbourhood favourite, as you can tell.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Doña María Coronel 17
Tel 854 550 358 / 692 901 092
Open 9.00 – midnight  Monday – Sunday
Kitchen closed 17.00 – 19.30
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

artichoke salad with red & green peppers, sun-dried tomato, burrata

sea bass ceviche

chicken croquetas

fried chicken bites and potato spirals with 2 sauces

squid ink ravioli filled with chocos & prawns

swordfish with radish slaw

char-grilled octopus brochette with celery purée and bonito flakes

presa Ibérica with potato purée
(usually it comes with sweet potato croquetas)

beef tenderloin with tortilla de patatas

chocolate cake with chestnut orange cream

Younes & Viviana


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Abacería Puerta Carmona

I’m surprised that I never really paid much attention to this little neighbourhood bar before now, but alerted by some recent social media praise I decided to pay it a visit. The bar has, in fact, changed hands just a few months ago, and according to affable barman and co-owner Chía, has reasserted some of its more traditional roots. I knew I’d love it as soon as I spotted the sherry menu and we promptly ordered some manzanilla en rama and mango vermouth.

Charcuterie, cheeses and montaditos are the mainstays, but there is also a reasonable tapas menu, from which we selected some albondigas (meatballs), followed by carrillada (braised pork cheeks), both excellent. We also sampled some Payoyo cheese in rosemary, which Chía assured us was the real deal (apparently there is a lot of dodgy “payoyo” out there).

The bar is quite small, though there are a few tables at the back, and a good-sized terrace outside, and it has the kind of friendly, relaxed atmosphere that makes you feel right at home. Open for breakfast, which is served until 12.30, the bar actually stays open all day, and a lovely dessert display appears on the bar for merienda. And being an abacería, you’ll also find some terrific artisanal preserves and tinned goods that you can take home with you.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Tintes 1
Tel 653 033 343
Open 8.00 – midnight Monday – Friday
9.00 – midnight Saturday – Sunday
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

manzanilla en rama and mango vermouth

Payoyo cheese with housemade red pepper jam

pork and jamón meatballs

braised pork cheeks (carrillada)

manager and co-owner Chía

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Lama La Uva

lamalauva

Happy to welcome a new wine shop and abacería in my neighbourhood. Lama la Uva is the creation of Ana Linares from Cádiz, whose aim is to introduce some of Andalucía’s lesser known quality wines and other delicacies (including hams and cheeses) to a wider public. It’s located in the Plaza Regina next to the Metropol Parasol, where it joins several other establishments that are making this one of the top go to places in town. The shop itself, where as well as wines you can buy ham, cheese and speciality foods, is a pleasant minimalist space on the ground floor, and there is a small room upstairs for tastings and other events.

The name is taken from Aesop’s fable “The Fox and the Grapes” (an adaptation of which was also published by Spanish writer Félix María Samañiego). But this time there is a twist,  with the fox (us!) getting the grapes this time, and they turn out to be the best ones (so no sour grapes).

Ana will be announcing her first tastings soon, which you can find on the Lama La Uva Facebook page.

Regina 1
Tel 601 494 138 / 606 975 899
Open 11.30-14.30 / 17.30-21.30 Monday – Friday
11.30 – 15.00 Saturday
€ € €

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lamalauva-4

lamalauva-anaowner Ana Linares

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lamalauva-8

lamalauva-6upstairs tasting room

lamalauva-1the fox and the grapes

lamalauva-7

lamalauva-2opening night party

lamalauva-5

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