Bajo Guia

The name Bajo Guia comes from the famous riverside street in Sanlucar de Barrameda, Bajo de Guia or Pilot’s Wharf, and this excellent restaurant specialises in the fish and seafood cuisine of that town. The original Bajo Guia was in Bermejales in south Sevilla, but a couple of years ago the team moved to this new location near the bullring, and are now doing nicely.

It is primarily a restaurant but most of the menu is available as tapas in the front area by the bar – and very good it was too. Everything from the tomato salad through boquerones fritos, tortillita de camarones (a speciality) and a whole fried choco (cuttlefish), to tuna in a delicious tomato sauce, was among the best I’ve had. Our waiter was great too, making recommendations and being attentive without being intrusive. I’ve rarely been this impressed by a first visit experience, and will definitely be back, with friends, to try some of the larger plates.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Adriano 5
Tel 954 097 452
Open 12.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 midnight
Closed Sunday evening
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tortillita de camarones

fresh tomato salad

whole fried cuttlefish

boquerones fritos

tuna in tomato sauce

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Asador Salas

I’ve known about this place for a long time, and even have a vague memory of having been here back when I was fairly new to Sevilla, so another visit was certainly in order. Sister bar to El Cairo just around the corner, it has a very Sevillano feel to it. Part of the reason for this is that’s it’s built on part of the frontage of the neo-Mudejar building next door, designed by Ánibal Gonzalez, and the small dining rooms to the side are separated by one of those Moorish arches in brick and tile and are quite grand. The main dining room and the tapas and bar area in front are less obvious, but are quite airy and spacious with a more downplayed version of the style.

As the name suggests, Salas specialises in meats and fish cooked over a holm oak charcoal grill (asador). A fairly traditional menu with a seafood bias and just enough modifications to be interesting, everything is excellently prepared. The grilled swordfish was the star tapa of the day, but the presa skewer and whole deep-fried cuttlefish were really good too. Good service, great wines, nice cosy ambiance.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.50€ per person

Almansa 15
Tel 954 217 796
Open 12.00 – midnight every day
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

breaded whole choco

char-grilled swordfish

breaded grouper roll filled with jamón serrano

the grouper roll revealed

grilled presa Ibérica skewer with a fine herb sauce

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La Grulla

Updated November 2017

chef and owner Marco Valcárcel

Offering traditional cuisine with an innovative touch, chef and owner Marcos Valcárcel has renovated both the space and the menu of his previous restaurant, Jarisa. The location serves his purpose well, as it is just next to the Estación de Cádiz market, and he offers not only a “seasonal” section on the menu, but also daily specials.

The corner space is bright and open, very minimalist (something I quite like) with a bar area for tapas as you enter, including seats at the bar and a few high tables. Beyond is the dining area, and there is also an ample terrace.

The chicken croquettes are some of the best croquetas I have had in Sevilla, and the other tapas we tried were all delicious. Staff are enthusiastic and friendly, there’s a good wine list, and you can also opt for the full restaurant menu.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ bar / 1.70€ restaurant PER PERSON

Juan de Mata Carriazo 4
Tel 954 41 02 67
Open 13.30 – 16.00 / 20.30 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
13.30 – 16.00 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

hake roe with bechamel

chicken croquetas

artichoke, cheese and spinach wraps with tomato sauce

“roast beef” carpaccio

grilled provolone cheese with two mojo picón salsas

smoked sardines on toast with avocado

huevo a la turca: soft cooked egg and bechamel, breaded and deep fried

huevo a la turca

filo trangles filled with hake and mussels

presa Ibérica with chimichurra sauce

selection of desserts

the bar

the restaurant

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Updated November 2017

BaQvs


BaQvs is Luis Gutiérrez’s new restaurant located in the Hotel Casas de la Judería, one of Seville’s most historic and fascinating architectural ensembles. The restaurant occupies three spaces in the hotel – a walk-in restaurant/tapas bar at the front, a second dining room inside, and a gorgeous colonnaded patio with a marble fountain and potted greenery – one of the prettiest patios in town. The front room is divided between the restaurant section (tables with tablecloths etc) and a more basic tapas section with tall tables and chairs. Wooden floors, beamed ceilings and padded wall coverings produce an ambiance that is both picturesque and luxurious.

Cuisine is Spanish/Mediterranean and ranges from simple traditional dishes such as ensaladilla and croquetas to more modern and elaborate dishes, either as plates for sharing or smaller tapas. The standout dish for us was a timbal of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota – definitely worth going back for. There is also an excellent wine list, including a wide range of sherries.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Santa Maria La Blanca 5
Tel 657 539 132
Open 12.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

bric-wrapped prawns with hierbabuena and tartar sauce

buñuelos de pescado (fish fritters)

timbal of jamón Ibérico with seasonal veg

the timbal opened up

chipirones (small squid)

the patio

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Zoko Sevilla

Zoko in Sevilla, opened in November 2016, is the latest venture of Argentinian chef Peter Alexander, expanding his group of restaurants (the original Zoko, el Vermut, and Zocarrá) in Zahara de los Atunes. The Sevilla restaurant provides a fusion of their typical local specialities (tuna and rice dishes respectively) together with Japanese and Peruvian influences.

Decor is typical hipster, with chalkboard walls, mismatched tables and chairs, but refreshingly with very helpful and friendly young wait staff. Be sure to check out the daily specials. We loved the tortillita de camarones – we were instructed to fold it in half and eat it like a taco. Tuna and coconut milk croquetas were lovely, topped with a sliver of cured tuna heart. Not everyone’s cup of tea (the tuna heart), but I love it. It’s really a nice casual spot and I hope to be back soon.

Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Marqués de Paradas 55
Tel 954 963 149
Open 13.00 – 17.00 / 20.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tuna & coconut milk croquettes topped with cured tuna heart

tortillita de camarones “taco”with guacamole, red onion, spicy mayo

Thai red chicken curry with couscous

char-grilled tuna ribs with bbq sauce

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Cruo Reyes Católicos

This is one of two new slightly upmarket bar-restaurants recently opened  by the Cruo group (the other is on the south side of the Alameda de Hércules), and which take them in something of a new direction. The locale is light and spacious – big windows, high ceilings, lots of exposed brick, and light wood floors and tables. The effect is both classy and comfortable.

The menu is quite extensive, with a lot of quality charcuterie a mix of traditional and more modern mainly large plates and some tapas. The best dish we sampled was a carpaccio of presa Ibérica with a strawberry vinaigrette, celery and wasabi. Definitely something to go back for. Service gave the impression of being a little bit inexperienced, but polite and helpful, and actually quite efficient. I like that they are open all day, making it a nice spot to stop for a late afternoon drink or snack.

Bread/Service Charge: 1€

Reyes Católicos 14
Tel 955 648 822
Open 13.00 – midnight Monday – Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

ensaladilla with prawns, toasted garlic, carabinero mayo, red onion, pickle

presa Ibérica carpaccio, with strawberry vinaigrette, celery, wasabi

flamenquín XXL

beef and pork burger

the green-eyes cocktail: orange wine, PX, vermouth

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Bartolomea

Updated August 2017

Almost exactly five years after opening the very popular La Brunilda, husband and wife team Diego & Esperanza opened this second restaurant with a completely new menu, just around the corner next to the Arenal Market. Bartolomea Resto & Grill does feel more like a restaurant than Brunilda, but has the same attention to quality and detail. It’s pleasantly light and airy inside, with big windows and light wood furnishings. And, as always, you can expect great service the well-trained team.

Favourite dishes include the sea bass ceviche, the croquetas del día (in this case cabrales cheese and apple) and the perfectly grilled pluma Ibérica.  There’s a nice selection of salads too. It’s a shortish menu, with starters, fish & seafood and meat dishes offered as either tapas or raciones (small or big plates). I was also happy to see the revival of one of my fave desserts from La Brunilda’s early days – the watermelon granita with stawberries, basil gelée and passion fruit ice cream.

Bread Charge: 0.80€ per person

Arenal 1
(next to Mercado Arenal)
Tel 955 234 370
Open: 13.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – 23.30
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

croquetas del día (these were cabrales cheese and apple)

burrata, tomato, basil salad with pipirrana

sea bass ceviche with yucca chips

grilled salmon, sautéed artichokes, saffron sauce

“fish & chips”
breaded marinated rosada with adobo mayo and yucca chips

prawn burger with avocado alioli and tempura onions

chargrilled presa Ibérica with apple purée and pistachio pesto

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Updated August 2017

El Bacalao

El Bacalao, which currently has two restaurants in Sevilla (one in Plaza Ponce de León, the other in Calle Tarifa), has been a fixture in city for as long as anyone can remember. They have recently renovated both the restaurant and menu at their Ponce de León location, and I was invited to sample this new menu with a group of other food writers, bloggers, etc. I like what they’ve done with the place. It looks fresher and more welcoming, with a long bar as you enter and a few dining rooms both on the main floor and upstairs, though I would always opt to sit at the bar.

Our meal was served in a dining room at the back of the restaurant, and took the form of a tasting of thirteen menu items – four starters, seven main courses and two desserts, with either manzanilla sherry or white wine. And as you might expect given the name of the restaurant, bacalao (salt cod) figured prominently in the menu, from the signature bacalao al ajo confitado, through pavias and croquetas to an excellent bacalao tartare, though one of the dishes – the bacalao dorada – was too much salty for me (and that almost never happens, I love salty food). Other personal favourites included a lovely fresh spinach salad and the milhojas de cola de toro (oxtail).

And so a disclaimer here: my rating of the bar is based only on this one occasion, which overall was a pleasant experience. I shall try to pop in again as a “regular customer” at the bar, to see how things go during regular service.

Bread/Service Charge: 0.90€ PER PERSON

Ponce de León 15
Tel 954 21 66 70
Open 8.00 – 12.00 for breakfast
12.00 – midnight Monday – Saturday for tapas
8.00 – 16.30 Sunday
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8| Service 7 | Ambiance 7

Cantabrian anchovies on toast with courgette alioli and lime foam

ensaladilla with king prawns, dried cherry toms, mayo foam

salt cod tartare, confit tomato, fresh chives, wasabi and balsamic vinegar spheres

spinach salad with walnuts, pine nuts and goat cheese ice cream

bacalao pavía with squid ink mayo, bacalao, spinach & pine nut croqueta

bacalao dorada

bacalao with confit garlic and tomato

bacalao loin with creamy leek brandada

bacalao cocochas “pil pil” with toasted garlic and chilis

oxtail in red wine with wonton pastry and slow-cooked egg yolk

selection of desserts

a lovely new rosé wine by Delgado Zuleta

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Taberna del Alabardero

The Alabardero is in some ways a slightly unusual creature, part boutique hotel (7 rooms), part catering school, part bistro/cafeteria/tapas bar, and part restaurant, all housed in a classic 19th century “casa palacio” with lots of beautiful tiles and antique style furniture. It all seems to work well together, though, and since opening its doors in 1992 the Alabardero has become one of the pillars of Sevillano gastronomy.

The cafeteria and tapas bar area can be found in in the main courtyard as you enter, with the bistro off to one side (which offers an excellent set menu). The restaurant is upstairs, specializing in high quality Andalusian dishes. We opted for tapas this visit and other than one slight blip – the croquetas could have been tastier – we loved every dish. Service is very attentive and, although perhaps a bit formal, it’s in keeping with the elegant surroundings and it’s actually refreshing to find such well-trained staff.

Bread/Service Charge: 0€

Zaragoza 20
Tel 954 502 721
Open 13.00 – 16.30 / 20.00 – 23.30
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

two kinds of croquettes: mushroom and seafood

marinated salmon

foie micuit with ginger toast

grilled octopus with potato purée and smoked paprika

grilled beef tenderloin with carrot and beet purées

pear tatin with chocolate ice cream

Azabache cake, chocolate, sable Breton, apple créme, saffron brûlée

the bistro

central courtyard

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Papirusa

Updated October 2017

Sister to La Jarana (which I still haven’t been to because it’s half-way to the airport), Papirusa is located in the barrio El Arenal, between the Cathedral and the bullring. More restaurant than tapas bar, and clearly geared for an upscale market, it still has the feel of a local bar. The long narrow space has a small “indoor-outdoor” patio area as you walk in, and there is also a small sidewalk terraza. Inside it’s cosy and comfortable, all soft blues and browns.

The menu is also small and comfortable, and there is an impressive wine list, though while there are several nice white wines by the glass there are only a couple of reds. By far my favourite “I have to come back for this” dish is the breaded artichokes filled with gambas al ajillo. And for the first time ever I have tasted cuttlefish “meatballs” that I actually like. But stay away from the patatas-not-very-bravas, topped with ketchup and some sort of egg-white “mayo”. Char-grilled meats are a specialty here, and the carrillada (pork cheek) is super tender in a delicious red wine sauce. Overall, above-average cooking, great service and a very pleasant atmosphere. Fab desserts by Gollerías.

Bread/Service Charge: 1.20 € PER PERSON

Antonia Díaz 9
Tel 954 22 53 85
Open 13.00 – midnight
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

papirusa-papirusa

papirusa-2

papirusa-3

papirusa-tuna-tatakytuna tataky with ginger and wakame

papirusa-croquetas-rabocola de toro de Lidia croquetas

chicken & jamón croquetas

papirusa-artichokesbreaded artichokes filled with gambas al ajillo, squid ink mayo

papirusa-albondigas-chocosalbóndigas de chocos

papirusa-chocoschocos fritos

calamares fritos

papirusa-papas-bravaspapas (not so) bravas

papirusa-morcillagrilled morcilla de Burgos with panko migas

presa & morcilla rolls

papirusa-lamb-kidneyschar-grilled lamb kidneys

carrillada al vino tinto

char-grilled presa Ibérida

papirusa-banoffeebanoffee pie

papirusa-13bathroom mirrors

papirusa-4

papirusa-11

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Updated October 2017