Henry Moore in Sevilla

henry moore[click on image to enlarge]

A selection of abstract bronzes by Henry Moore (1898-1986), one of the great masters of modern sculpture, are being exhibited in various cities in Spain this year: Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Valencia and Bilbao. From now until mid-March it’s Sevilla’s turn. There are seven large bronze sculptures in total, which can be seen in the the Plaza del Triunfo square – a great opportunity to enjoy the strength and character of Moore’s work in an urban setting rather than inside a museum. Two of his most common themes will be present: reclining figures and connected pieces that represent a protective mother and her child.

The director of the Henry Moore Foundation, Richard Calvocoressi, is enthusiastic about the location of the bronzes. “Moore’s sculptures are based on the human figure, but we cannot forget the presence of natural forms, how they were inspired by rock formations, mountains or cliffs,” he said, “and the statues on this site seem to be in continuous dialogue with the Cathedral, which is like a mountain of stone, and the outer wall of the Alcázar, which is a sort of cliff.” Calvocoressi downplayed the rain saying that bronze looks better wet and the light here in Sevilla at the moment is like you might find on a rare summer day in England, a fitting way to appreciate these magnificent works.

I took a walk around the square during a sunny break on Friday afternoon and agree that the statues look terrific in that setting. I overheard two Spanish women talking about the reclining mother and child and the older of the two, who had to be in her eighties, said that she knew it was supposed to be a child at the breast but it still looked like a corkscrew to her. I’ll never be able to look at that statue again without a smile. And seeing a corkscrew. 🙂

Henry Moore Bronzes
February 6 to March 12, 2014
Plaza del Triunfo
Sevilla

Córdoba | Palacio de Viana

blue potsCórdoba is undoubtedly one of the most important historic cities in Europe, with a list of world-class monuments topped by the splendid Mezquita. But it also has quieter, less obvious charms. Among these are the famous Córdoban patios and courtyards (which even have their own festival), decked with flowers, often in the distinctive dark blue flower pots that can be seen all over the cities. Of course, patios and courtyards are not unique to Córdoba, being a typical architectural form all around the Mediterranean, but here they have been developed more than almost anywhere else, and have become almost a local art-form.

For this reason no visit to Córdoba can really be considered complete without going to see the Palace of Viana, the Museum of the Patios, and a few days ago I was fortunate enough to be invited to a tour both of the patios and the palace of which they form a part (it was actually my second visit as last year I saw the patios shortly after the museum had opened). In fact, I have only been in summer (first last June and now August) and really must go again in the spring.

viana collage

[a few of the Palacio de Viana patios]

The palace is known to have existed since the 14th century, and in the 15th became the home of the Don Gome family. In the 17th century it became known as the Rejas (grilles) de Don Gome, because of the barred windows of the patio giving on to the street outside. The original palace occupied a much smaller area than the palace as it is now, but under a succession of owners it has grown and changed over the centuries. In the 19th century, when it was the residence of the Marques de Villaseca, the house of Torres Cabrera, another palace that lay alongside, was taken over in its entirety. In 1902 the Palace became the property of the second Marquis of Viana, and over the next two generations completed its evolution into almost the form we see today. In 1980, on the death of the third Marquis, the Palace was sold to the CajaSur foundation and registered as a monument of national historic importance.

The palace today has twelve courtyards and a garden, intertwined with the various wings and sections of the palace, whose rooms and galleries house important collections of artifacts and artworks, including Breughel and Goya, tapestries and furniture, as well as an impressive library with over 7,000 books. I recommend taking the guided tour of the upstairs rooms. Although it is only given in Spanish there are printed handouts in different languages that give you a brief description of the rooms and collections.

There are also nighttime events and concerts which must be magical in that setting. You can check events, dates and times on the Palacio de Viana website.

Palacio de Viana
Plaza de Don Gome, 2
Córdoba

 

Santas de Zubarán: Devoción & Persuasion

santas-zurbaran-sevillaThis was one of the most enjoyable exhibitions I’ve seen in awhile. Combining art and fashion is bound to please and it also makes paintings like these feel more accessible. Francisco Zubarán (1598 – 1664) is mostly known for his religious paintings and still lifes, and here the outfits worn by his martyr saints have been interpreted by 12 contemporary Spanish fashion designers, including well-known names Vittorio & Lucchino and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

The Espacio Santa Clara is a former convent that has recently been done over as a cultural centre. The space is gorgeous with tiled patios and beautiful wood-beamed ceilings in the galleries.

To find out more about this fabulous exhibition check out Scribbler in Seville’s excellent and detailed review.

Espacio Santa Clara
Calle Becas (just off the Alameda)
Entrance: 6 euros / free for Sevilla residents
Audioguide 1.20 euros (included in 6 euro ticket)
10.00 – 14.00 Monday – Saturday
18.00 – 22.00 Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday / 18.00 – 21.00 Thursday, Friday
10.00 – 15.00 Sunday
Until 20th July

Santas de Zubarán: Devoción y Persuasión

Centro del Mudéjar

mudejar centre
The Palace of the Marqueses of the Algaba is home to Sevilla’s newest cultural centre, this one dedicated to the legacy of the Mudéjars of the 13th – 16th centuries. The palace was first built in this period and is worth a visit itself. Although it has undergone reforms since then it still boasts a splendid example of a mudéjar-gothic grand doorway and tower, as well as a lush central courtyard garden enclosed by arched walkways.

The centre opened on January 12th with an exhibit bringing together 111 pieces from different museums.

Centro del Mudéjar
Plaza Calderón de la Barca
(just behind Feria Market)
8 am – 2 pm / 5 pm – 8 pm Monday to Friday
Saturdays 8 am – 2 pm. Closed Sunday.
Admission is free.

Centro de Interpretación de la Judería

The new Centro de Interpretación de la Judería de Sevilla, which opened yesterday, is the city’s first museum of the history and achievements of Sevilla’s Jews, telling their story in words (both in Spanish and English) and pictures along with other exhibits. It is the latest project of the Casa de la Memoria, one of Sevilla’s best known flamenco cultural centres.

It is a very moving exhibit and you can lose yourself in the stories of some of Sevilla’s most important historical figures, such as Pablo de Olavide, José María Blanco White and the mysterious Susona Ben Susón. You can also see the original 19th century painting “The Expulsion of the Jews from Sevilla” by Joaquín Turina y Areal.

I also liked the map of the old Jewish Quarter, which was created especially for the Centre. New exhibits and events are being planned for the future.

Ximenez de Enciso, 22
Daily 10.30-14.00 and 17.30 – 20.00
entrance €6.50
Tel: 954 047 089
Website