A bit of general info about Sevilla…

Seville (Sevilla in Spanish, pronounced se-VEE-ya) is the fourth largest city in Spain, and is the capital city and cultural and financial centre of Andalusia. It was founded by the Romans and is more than 2,000 years old, and boasts one of the largest preserved old city centres in Europe, where you can see the traces of its long history in its many architectural styles, from the Arabic period through late medieval, renaissance, and baroque. The population of Seville is about 800,000 including the suburbs, and it is quite spread out, but the old centre is mostly contained within the old city walls on the interior ring road (the Ronda).

Unlike in larger Spanish cities like Madrid and Barcelona, you won’t find a lot of English speaking residents here. And even if you speak some Spanish (Castellano) you may find it difficult to understand the “Andaloo” accent, as many residents of Seville (los Sevillanos) have a habit of dropping the s at the end of words, and indeed quite often the whole last syllable.

How to get there

• Plane - There are direct daily flights from most major cities in Europe, and connecting flights to the rest of the world, usually via Madrid or Barcelona. To get to the city centre from the Seville airport take the airport bus (2.40€) or a taxi (flat rate from airport is 21.70€ except for Sundays & holidays).
• Train – If your stay in Seville is part of a longer Spanish holiday there is an excellent express train services from Madrid and Málaga that arrive in the modern terminus of Santa Justa, a short bus or taxi ride from the centre.
• Car – Whether you rent or drive your own car be aware that there is next to no street parking in the centre of Seville and underground parking costs are approximately 17 euros a day.

How to get around

Seville is very walkable and the best way to get around the centre of town is on foot.

• Public Transit – There aren’t many buses in the centre, but the buses that run around the inner ring road can be useful. The new tramway connects San Bernardo station to the Plaza Nueva. The fare is 1.30€ per journey, and there are multi-journey tickets if you want them.
• Taxi – The official taxis are white, and reasonably priced, but watch out for the occasional fiddle. Taxis in the centre can work out expensive because of slow travel and convoluted one way systems.
• Rental Bikes – There are lots of places to pick up and leave rental bikes, and a good system of cycle paths. It’s a good, cheap way to get to attractions that are outside the centre. Short term rental is by credit card, but it’s free for the first half-hour.

 

Where To Stay

Seville has a wide range of places to stay that cater for every taste and budget, from luxury 5-star hotels to small family-run pensions. In recent years there has been a trend to small and medium-sized boutique hotels in converted historic buildings in good central locations, that give excellent value for money.

If you are staying for more than a few nights, another option is to stay in one of the many pleasant holiday apartments available in the central areas of town. Wherever you stay you will almost certainly be within easy walking distance of shops, bars and restaurants, and the principal monuments.

Check out my top choices for hotels and holiday apartments.

Neighbourhoods

Roughly oval in shape, the Casco Antiguo (literally “old shell”) nestles on the east side of a bend in the River Guadalquivir. Measuring about 2.5km from north to south, and 1.5 km across its widest part, it’s small enough to walk just about everywhere, which is just as well, as most of the picturesque, narrow streets are unsuitable for cars, and parking is limited.

• Barrio Santa Cruz – This is the most well-known area of Seville, and includes the old Jewish Quarter. There are many famous monuments and museums here, all close to wonderful restaurants and tapas bars.
• Arenal- This is the area between the Avenida de la Constitución and the river, and is where you can find the bullring and the Torre del Oro, as well as lots of great restaurants and tapas bars.
• Centro – This is the main commercial area, running across town from the Bellas Artes museum to the Espacio Metropol Parasol, together with the main shopping streets, Calle Tetuan and Calle Sierpes that take you to the Plaza Nueva and Plaza San Francisco.
• The Alameda (San Vicente/San Lorenzo) - The Alameda, with its Roman columns at either end, is the largest open space in the old city. It used to be rather seedy, but in recent years has been going upmarket, with lots of new hotels, apartments, bars and restaurants making it one of the main venues of the city’s nightlife.
• Macarena – Not just a kitsch dance tune, but one of Seville’s traditional working class districts, extending northwards beyond the city wall, the Macarena is still run down in parts, but has seen a lot of renovation in recent years.
• Triana – Across the river from the old city, and with a character and history all its own, Triana is associated with ceramics, the gypsy tradition, flamenco and bullfighters. Go to Calle Betis by the river for the restaurants and nightlife, and to Triana Market for the fresh produce.

You can find more information here:  Barrios of Sevilla

Things to do and see

Although there are many impressive monuments and museums to see in Seville, one of the most pleasant pastimes is to just throw away your map and enjoy wandering through the labyrinth of small winding streets and little squares that make up the Barrio Santa Cruz and the old Jewish Quarter. At almost every turn there is something unexpected to be seen, a glimpse of a patio through an open door, a rooftop terrace, a fountain or a statue, or you can sit outside a bar or cafe, and watch the world go by for a while.

Here are my three must-sees:

• Real Alcázar is the royal palace-fortress of Seville. Originally built by Pedro the Cruel using Moorish architects it contains some of the finest examples of mudéjar art and architecture in Spain. It is also very pleasant to walk in the surrounding gardens, which in the summer (July-Sept) are the venue for open-air evening concerts.

• The Cathedral, built in the fifteenth century on the site of the former mosque, is the third largest church in the world, and incorporates Seville’s most famous landmark and symbol, the 800-year-old Giralda Tower. Once a minaret, and now the cathedral’s bell tower, it offers an excellent view over the city (there are ramps going up to the top of the tower, which are much easier to climb than stairs). The cathedral has an elaborate – some might say, ostentatious – gold altar piece, a number of richly decorated chapels, and also the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

• Plaza de España took my breath away the first time I saw it. Although relatively recent, having been built for the Hispanoamerican exposition of 1929, it feels somehow much older. It has just been renovated and restored to its former glory, including the little boating canal. Best seen early morning or in the evening as it’s a huge open space (no shade).

 

Parks and Gardens

The city’s largest park is the Parque María Luisa. As well as the main promenades and formal gardens, its secluded corners and the wide variety of birds, and trees and other plants make it an excellent spot for an early morning stroll.

Jardines de Murillo are located along the outside of the far wall of the Real Alcázar, along Menendez-Pelayo Ave.

Festivals

The two festivals that Seville is best known for are Semana Santa (Holy Week) and La Feria de Abril (April Fair). Both take place in the spring with the Feria usually beginning two weeks after Semana Santa. Unless you have a specific interest in seeing the processions during Semana Santa, it is advisable to avoid Seville at this time. Hotel and holiday rental prices almost double, tapas bars and restaurants are crammed full of tourists and locals and have special “Semana Santa menus”, and basically you will not get to experience the real Seville. The Feria is located away from the centre of town, but visiting during this time you will often come across shops and bars that have closed for the Feria, as well as higher hotel and holiday rental prices.

For lovers of Flamenco there is a wonderful international festival every two years, the Bienal de Flamenco, which takes place in September.

Day Trips

If you fancy a day trip, Carmona, Córdoba and Cádiz are all worth a visit. The Mezquita in Córdoba is an absolute must-see if you have the time, and the old centre of the little town of Carmona is very picturesque, but a personal favourite is the coastal city of Cádiz.

For more information see: Day Trips

Climate

Best times to visit are the spring (especially when the orange blossom is out, usually end of February to mid-March) and autumn, when you can sit outside to eat, and stroll about in shorts and sandals. July and August are generally too hot for mere mortals, and though you can get nice weather in the winter, it can sometimes be cold, and the rain, when it comes, is sometimes torrential. Below you can see a chart of the average annual temperatures and rainfall.

Resources

The main Tourism Office is located in the Plaza San Francisco on the corner next to Bar Laredo. The staff here are very helpful and you can also use the computers there. There is another office on the Avenida de la Constitución.

Books that feature Seville

• The Seville Communion by Arturo Perez-Reverte
• The Blind Man of Seville by Robert Wilson

Quotes from fellow travellers:

Alejna Brujos, Boston: I was completely charmed by Sevilla. While there are plenty of things to see and do, my fondest memories are of just relaxing at an outdoor cafe, and wandering the maze of narrow streets. There was a magic just to being in such a beautiful old city.

Craig Lawrence, Vancouver: Sevilla is old, older than my country but it is young as well. It’s a place to laugh and dance or just stand in wonder. Don’t even get me started on the food! Tapas perfection at every turn, who could have known these delights existed?”